Yamaha Mountain Max MM600 MM700 Snowmobile Complete Workshop Repair Manual 2000 2001 2002

Chapter One General Information This Clymer shop manual covers the 1997-2002 Yamaha models. The text provides complete information on maintenance, tune-up, repair and overhaul. Hundreds of photos and drawings guide the reader through every job. A shop manual is a reference tool and as in all Clymer manuals, the chapters are thumb tabbed. Important items are indexed at the end of the book. All procedures, tables and figures are designed for the reader who may be working on the snowmobile for the first time. Frequently used specifications and capacities from individual chapters are summarized in the Quick Reference Data at the front of the book. Tables 1-11 are at the end of this chapter. Table 1 lists the Yamaha models covered in this manual. Table 2 lists vehicle length. Table 3 lists vehicle width. Table 4 lists vehicle height. Table 5 lists vehicle weight. Table 6 lists conversion formulas. Table 7 lists general torque specifications. Table 8 lists technical abbreviations. Table 9 lists metric tap and drill sizes. Table 10 lists decimal and metric equivalents. MANUAL ORGANIZATION All dimensions and capacities are expressed in metric and U.S. standard units of measurement. This chapter provides general information on shop safety, tool use, service fundamentals and shop supplies. The tables at the end of the chapter include general vehicle information. Chapter Two provides methods and suggestions for quick and accurate diagnosis and repairing of problems. Troubleshooting procedures discuss typical symptoms and logical methods to pinpoint the trouble. Chapter Three explains all routine maintenance necessary to keep the snowmobile operating well. Chapter Three also includes recommended tune-up procedures, eliminating the need to frequently consult other chapters on the various assemblies. Subsequent chapters describe specific systems, provid- ing disassembly, repair, assembly and adjustment procedures in simple step-by-step form. Some of the procedures in this manual specify special tools. In most cases, the tool is illustrated in use. 1

Well-equipped mechanics may be able to substitute similar tools or fabricate a suitable replacement. However, in some cases, the specialized equipment or expertise required may make it impractical for the home mechanic to attempt the procedure. When necessary, such opera- tions are identified in the text with the recommendation to have a dealership or specialist perform the task. It may be less expensive to have a professional perform these jobs, especially when considering the cost of the equipment. WARNINGS, CAUTIONS AND NOTES The terms WARNING, CAUTION and NOTE have specific meanings in this manual. A WARNING emphasizes areas where injury or even death could result from negligence. Mechanical damage may also occur. WARNINGS are to be taken seriously . A CAUTION emphasizes areas where equipment damage could result. Disregarding a CAUTION could cause permanent mechanical damage, though injury is unlikely. A NOTE provides additional information to make a step or procedure easier or clearer. Disregarding a NOTE could cause inconvenience, but would not cause equipment damage or injury. SAFETY Professional mechanics can work for years and never sustain a serious injury or mishap. Follow these guide- lines and practice common sense to safely service the vehicle. 1. Do not operate the vehicle in an enclosed area. The exhaust gasses contain carbon monoxide, an odorless, color- less, and tasteless poisonous gas. Carbon monoxide levels build quickly in small enclosed areas and can cause un- consciousness and death in a short time. Make sure the work area is properly ventilated or operate the vehicle outside. 2. Never use gasoline or any extremely flammable liquid to clean parts. Refer to Cleaning Parts and Handling Gas- oline Safely in this chapter. 3. Never smoke or use a torch in the vicinity of flammable liquids, such as gasoline or cleaning solvent. 4. If welding or brazing on the vehicle, remove the fuel tank, carburetor and shocks to a safe distance at least 50 ft. (15 m) away. 5. Use the correct type and size of tools to avoid damaging fasteners. 6. Keep tools clean and in good condition. Replace or repair worn or damaged equipment. 7. When loosening a tight fastener, be guided by what would happen if the tool slips. 8. When replacing fasteners, make sure the new fasteners are the same size and strength as the original ones. 9. Keep the work area clean and organized. 10. Wear eye protection anytime the safety of your eyes is in question. This includes procedures involving drilling, grinding, hammering, compressed air and chemicals. 11. Wear the correct clothing for the job. Tie up or cover long hair so it cannot get caught in moving equipment. 12. Do not carry sharp tools in clothing pockets. 13. Always have an approved fire extinguisher available. Make sure it is rated for gasoline (Class B) and electrical (Class C) fires. 14. Do not use compressed air to clean clothes, the vehicle or the work area. Debris may be blown into eyes or skin. Never direct compressed air at yourself or someone else. Do not allow children to use or play with any compressed air equipment. 15. When using compressed air to dry rotating parts, hold the part so it cannot rotate. Do not allow the force of the air to spin the part. The air jet is capable of rotating parts at extreme speed. The part may damage or disintegrate, causing serious injury. 16. Do not inhale the dust created by brake pad and clutch wear. These particles may contain asbestos. In addition, some types of insulating materials and gaskets may contain asbestos. Inhaling asbestos particles is hazardous to people’s health. 17. Never work on the vehicle while someone is working under it. 18. When placing the vehicle on a stand, make sure it is secure before walking away. Handling Gasoline Safely Gasoline is a volatile flammable liquid and is one of the most dangerous items in the shop. 2 CHAPTER ONE 1

Because gasoline is used so often, many people forget that it is hazardous. Only use gasoline as fuel for gasoline internal combustion engines. Keep in mind, when working on a vehicle, gasoline is always present in the fuel tank, fuel line and carburetor. To avoid a disastrous acci- dent when working around the fuel system, carefully observe the following precautions: 1. Never use gasoline to clean parts. See Cleaning Parts in this chapter. 2. When working on the fuel system, work outside or in a well-ventilated area. 3. Do not add fuel to the fuel tank or service the fuel system while the vehicle is near open flames, sparks or where someone is smoking. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It collects in low areas and is more easily ignited than liquid gasoline. 4. Allow the engine to cool completely before working on any fuel system component. 5. When draining the carburetor, catch the fuel in a plastic container and then pour it into an approved gasoline storage devise. 6. Do not store gasoline in glass containers. If the glass breaks, a serious explosion or fire may occur. 7. Immediately wipe up spilled gasoline with rags. Store the rags in a metal container with a lid until they can be properly disposed of, or place them outside in a safe place for the fuel to evaporate. 8. Do not pour water onto a gasoline fire. Water spreads the fire and makes it more difficult to extinguish. Use a class B, BC or ABC fire extinguisher to extinguish the fire. 9. Always turn off the engine before refueling. Do not spill fuel onto the engine or exhaust system. Do not over- fill the fuel tank. Leave an air space at the top of the tank to allow room for the fuel to expand due to temperature fluctuations. Cleaning Parts Cleaning parts is one of the more tedious and difficult service jobs performed in the home garage. There are many types of chemical cleaners and solvents available for shop use. Most are poisonous and extremely flammable. To prevent chemical exposure, vapor buildup, fire and serious injury, observe each product warning label and note the following: 1. Read and observe the entire product label before using any chemical. Always know what type of chemical is being used and whether it is poisonous and/or flammable. 2. Do not use more than one type of cleaning solvent at a time. If mixing chemicals is called for, measure the proper amounts according to the manufacturer. 3. Work in a well-ventilated area. 4. Wear chemical-resistant gloves. 5. Wear safety glasses. 6. Wear a vapor respirator if the instructions call for it. 7. Wash hands and arms thoroughly after cleaning parts. 8. Keep chemical products away from children and pets. 9. Thoroughly clean all oil, grease and cleaner residue from any part that must be heated. 10. Use a nylon brush when cleaning parts. Metal brushes may cause a spark. 11. When using a parts washer, only use the solvent recommended by the manufacturer. Make sure the parts washer is equipped with a metal lid that will lower in case of fire. Warning Labels Most manufacturers attach information and warning labels to the vehicle. These labels contain instructions that are important to personal safety when operating, servic- ing, transporting and storing the vehicle. Refer to the owner’s manual for the description and location of labels. Order replacement labels from the manufacturer if they are missing or damaged. SERIAL NUMBERS Serial numbers are stamped onto the frame and engine. Record these numbers in the Quick Reference Data section at the front of the book. Have these numbers available when ordering parts. The frame number (Figure 1) or vehicle identification number (VIN) is located on the side of the tunnel. The engine number (Figure 2) is stamped into the right end of the engine crankcase. GENERAL INFORMATION 3 1 2

FASTENERS Proper fastener selection and installation is important to ensure that the vehicle operates as designed, and can be serviced efficiently. The choice of original equipment fasteners is not arrived at by chance. Make sure replacement fasteners meet all the same requirements as the originals. Threaded Fasteners Threaded fasteners secure most of the components on the vehicle. Most are tightened by turning them clockwise (right-hand threads). If the normal rotation of the component being tightened loosens the fastener, it may have left-hand threads. If a left-hand threaded fastener is used, it is noted in the text. Two dimensions are required to match the size of the fastener: the number of threads in a given distance and the outside diameter of the threads. Two systems are currently used to specify threaded fastener dimensions: the U.S. Standard system and the metric system. Although fasteners may appear similar, close in- spection shows that the thread designs are not the same (Figure 3). Pay particular attention when working with unidentified fasteners; mismatching thread types can damage threads. NOTE To ensure the fastener threads are not mis- matched or cross-threaded, start all fasteners by hand. If a fastener is hard to start or turn, determine the cause before tightening with a wrench. The length (L, Figure 4), diameter (D) and distance between thread crests (pitch) (T) classify metric screws and bolts. A typical bolt may be identified by the numbers 8—1.25 ´ 130. This indicates the bolt has diameter of 8 mm. The distance between thread crests is 1.25 mm and the length is 130 mm. Always measure bolt length as shown in Figure 5 to avoid purchasing replacements of the wrong length. The numbers located on the top of the fastener (Figure 4) indicate the strength of metric screws and bolts. The higher the number, the stronger the fastener is. Unnum- bered fasteners are the weakest. Many screws, bolts and studs are combined with nuts to secure particular components. To indicate the size of a nut, manufacturers specify the internal diameter and the thread pitch. The measurement across two flats on a nut or bolt indicates the wrench size. WARNING Do not install fasteners with a strength classification lower than what was originally installed by the manufacturer. Doing so may cause equipment failure and/or damage. Torque Specifications The materials used in the manufacture of the vehicle may be subjected to uneven stresses if the fasteners of the various subassemblies are not installed and tightened correctly. Fasteners that are improperly installed or work loose can cause extensive damage. It is essential to use an accurate torque wrench, described in this chapter, with the torque specifications in this manual. 4 CHAPTER ONE 3 4 American Metric 60° 60° T L -9.8 D Grade marking

Specifications for torque are provided in New- ton-meters (N•m), foot-pounds (ft.-lb.) and inch-pounds (in.-lb.). Refer to Table 6 for torque conversions and Ta- ble 7 for general torque specifications. To use Table 7, first determine the size of the fastener as described in Fas- teners in this chapter. Torque specifications for specific components are at the end of the appropriate chapters. Torque wrenches are covered in the Basic Tools section. Self-Locking Fasteners Several types of bolts, screws and nuts incorporate a system that creates interference between the two fasteners. Interference is achieved in various ways. The most common type is the nylon insert nut and a dry adhesive coating on the threads of a bolt. Self-locking fasteners offer greater holding strength than standard fasteners, which improves their resistance to vibration. Most self-locking fasteners cannot be reused. The materials used to form the lock become distorted after the initial installation and removal. It is a good practice to discard and replace self-locking fasteners after their removal. Do not replace self-locking fasteners with standard fasteners. Washers There are two basic types of washers: flat washers and lockwashers. Flat washers are simple discs with a hole to fit a screw or bolt. Lockwashers prevent a fastener from working loose. Washers can be used as spacers and seals, or to help distribute fastener load and to prevent the fastener from damaging the component. As with fasteners, when replacing washers make sure the replacement washers are of the same design and quality. Cotter Pins A cotter pin is a split metal pin inserted into a hole or slot to prevent a fastener from loosening. In certain applications, the fastener must be secured in this way. For these applications, a cotter pin and castellated (slotted) nut is used. To use a cotter pin, first make sure the diameter is correct for the hole in the fastener. After correctly tightening the fastener and aligning the holes, insert the cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends over the fastener (Fig- ure 6). Unless instructed to do so, never loosen a torqued fastener to align the holes. If the holes do not align, tighten the fastener just enough to achieve alignment. Cotter pins are available in various diameters and lengths. Measure length from the bottom of the head to the tip of the shortest pin. Snap Rings and E-rings Snap rings (Figure 7) are circular-shaped metal retaining clips. They help secure parts and gears in place such as shafts, pins or rods. External type snap rings retain items on shafts. Internal type snap rings secure parts within housing bores. In some applications, in addition to secur- ing the component(s), snap rings of varying thickness also determine endplay. These are usually called selective snap rings. Two basic types of snap rings are used: machined and stamped snap rings. Machined snap rings (Figure 8) can GENERAL INFORMATION 5 1 5 6 Correct installation of cotter pin

be installed in either direction, since both faces have sharp edges. Stamped snap rings (Figure 9) have a sharp edge and a round edge. When installing a stamped snap ring in a thrust application, install the sharp edge facing away from the part producing the thrust. Observe the following when installing snap rings: 1. Remove and install snap rings with snap ring pliers. See Snap Ring Pliers in this chapter. 2. In some applications, it may be necessary to replace snap rings after removing them. 3. Compress or expand snap rings only enough to install them. If overly expanded, they lose their retaining ability. 4. After installing a snap ring, make sure it seats completely. 5. Wear eye protection when removing and installing snap rings. E-rings are used when it is not practical to use a snap ring. Remove E-rings with a flat blade screwdriver by prying between the shaft and E-ring. To install an E-ring, center it over the shaft groove and push or tap it into place. SHOP SUPPLIES Lubricants and Fluids Periodic lubrication helps ensure a long service life for any type of equipment. Using the correct type of lubricant is as important as performing the lubrication service, although in an emergency the wrong type is better than none. The following section describes the types of lubricants most often required. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for lubricant types. Two-stroke engine oil Lubrication for a 2-stroke engine is provided either by oil mixed with the incoming fuel-air mixture or by oil in- jected into the fuel-air mixture. The models included in this manual are equipped with an oil injection system. Some of the oil settles out in the crankcase, lubricating the crankshaft and lower end of the connecting rods. The rest of the oil enters the combustion chamber to lubricate the piston rings and cylinder walls. This oil is burned during the combustion process, then expelled with the engine’s exhaust. Engine oil must have several special qualities to work well in a 2-stroke snowmobile engine. The oil must func- tion properly in the high operating temperature associated with 2-stroke engines, as well as flow freely in cold temperatures. The oil must lubricate the engine sufficiently and burn completely during combustion. The oil should not leave behind excessive deposits. Refer to Engine Lu- brication in Chapter Three. NOTE The injection oil used by Yamaha snowmobile engines must also be able to flow at temperatures of -40° C (-40° F). See Chap- ter Three under Lubrication for additional information. Four-stroke engine oil CAUTION Four-stroke oils are only discussed to provide a comparison. The engines used in these models of Yamaha snowmobiles are 2-stroke engines. Only use 2-stroke oil. Four-stroke (cycle) oil for ATV, motorcycle and automotive engines is classified by the American Petroleum Institute (API) and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) in several categories. Oil containers display these ratings on the top or label. The API classification is not an indication of oil quality. API oil classification is indicated by letters; oils for gasoline engines are identified by an S, such as SF, SG, SH or SJ. Using the type recommended by the manufacturer is important, but some earlier classifications of oil may be difficult to find. Viscosity is an indication of the oil’s thickness or ability to flow at a specific temperature. The SAE uses numbers to indicate viscosity; thin oils have low numbers while thick oils have high numbers. A W after the number indi- 6 CHAPTER ONE 7 Internal snap ring Plain clip External clip E-ring

cates that the viscosity testing was done at low temperature to simulate cold-weather operation. Engine oils fall into the 5 to 50 range. Multigrade oils (for example 5W-20) have been changed by additives that modify the oil to be less viscous (thinner) at low temperatures and more viscous (thicker) at high temperatures. This allows the oil to perform efficiently across a wide range of engine operating conditions. The lower the number, the easier the engine will start in cold climates. Higher numbers are usually recommended for engines running in hot weather conditions. Greases Grease is lubricating oil with thickening agents added to it. The National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) grades grease. Grades range from No. 000 to No. 6, with No. 6 being the thickest. Typical multipurpose grease is NLGI No. 2. For specific applications, manufacturers may recommend water-resistant type grease or one with an additive such as molybdenum disulfide (MoS2). Brake fluid Brake fluid is the hydraulic fluid used to transmit hydraulic pressure (force) to the wheel brakes. Brake fluid is classified by the Department of Transportation (DOT). Current designations for brake fluid are DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5. This classification appears on the fluid container. Each type of brake fluid has its own definite character- istics. Do not intermix different types of brake fluid. DOT 5 fluid is silicone-based. DOT 5 is not compatible with other fluids or in systems for which it was not designed. Mixing DOT 5 fluid with other fluids may cause brake system failure. When adding brake fluid, only use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer. Brake fluid will damage any plastic, painted or plated surface it contacts. Use extreme care when working with brake fluid and remove any spills immediately with soap and water. Hydraulic brake systems require clean and moisture free brake fluid. Never reuse brake fluid. Keep containers and reservoirs properly sealed. WARNING Never pour a mineral-based (petroleum) oil into the brake system. Mineral oil causes rubber parts in the system to swell and break apart, resulting in complete brake failure. Cleaners, Degreasers and Solvents Many chemicals are available to remove oil, grease and other residue from the vehicle. Before using cleaning solvents, consider how they will be used and disposed of, particularly if they are not water-soluble. Local ordinances may require special procedures for the disposal of many types of cleaning chemicals. Refer to Safety and Cleaning Parts in this chapter for more information on their use. Use brake parts cleaner to clean brake system components when using petroleum-based products will damage seals. Brake parts cleaner leaves no residue. Use electrical contact cleaner to clean electrical connections and components without leaving any residue. Carburetor cleaner is a powerful solvent used to remove fuel deposits and varnish from fuel system components. Use this cleaner carefully, as it may damage finishes. Generally, degreasers are strong cleaners used to remove heavy accumulations of grease from engine and frame components. GENERAL INFORMATION 7 1 8 9 Full support areas Direction of thrust Direction of thrust Rounded edges Sharp edges

Most solvents are used in a parts washing cabinet for individual component cleaning. For safety, use only non- flammable or high flash point solvents. Gasket Sealant Sealants are used in combination with a gasket or seal and are occasionally alone. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation when using sealants. Use extreme care when choosing a sealant different from the type originally recommended. Choose sealants based on their resistance to heat, various fluids and their sealing capabilities. One of the most common sealants is RTV, or room temperature vulcanizing sealant. This sealant cures at room temperature over a specific time period. This allows the repositioning of components without damaging gaskets. Moisture in the air causes the RTV sealant to cure. Al- ways install the tube cap as soon as possible after applying RTV sealant. RTV sealant has a limited shelf life and will not cure properly if the shelf life has expired. Keep partial tubes sealed and discard them if they have surpassed the expiration date. Applying RTV sealant Clean all old gasket residue from the mating surfaces. Remove all gasket material from blind threaded holes; it can cause inaccurate bolt torque. Spray the mating surfaces with aerosol parts cleaner and then wipe with a lint-free cloth. The area must be clean for the sealant to adhere. Apply RTV sealant in a continuous bead 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in.) thick. Circle all the fastener holes unless otherwise specified. Do not allow any sealant to enter these holes. Assemble and tighten the fasteners to the specified torque within the time frame recommended by the RTV sealant manufacturer. Gasket Remover Aerosol gasket remover can help remove stubborn gaskets. This product can speed up the removal process and prevent damage to the mating surface that may be caused by using a scraping tool. Most of these types of products are very caustic. Follow the gasket remover manufacturer’s instructions for use. Threadlocking Compound A threadlocking compound is a fluid applied to the threads of fasteners. After tightening the fastener, the fluid dries and becomes a solid filler between the threads. This makes it difficult for the fastener to work loose from vibration, or heat expansion and contraction. Some threadlocking compounds also provide a seal against fluid leakage. Before applying threadlocking compound remove any old compound from both thread areas and clean them with aerosol parts cleaner. Use the compound sparingly. Ex- cess fluid can run into adjoining parts. Threadlocking compounds come in different strengths. Follow the particular manufacturer’s recommendations regarding compound selection. Two manufacturers of threadlocking compound are ThreeBond and Loctite which offer a wide range of compounds for various strength, temperature and repair applications. BASIC TOOLS Most of the procedures in this manual can be carried out with simple hand tools and test equipment familiar to the home mechanic. Always use the correct tools for the job at hand. Keep tools organized and clean. Store them in a tool chest with related tools organized together. Quality tools are essential. The best are constructed of high-strength alloy steel. These tools are light, easy to use 8 CHAPTER ONE 10 11

and resistant to wear. Their working surface is devoid of sharp edges and the tool is carefully polished. They have an easy-to-clean finish and are comfortable to use. Qual- ity tools are a good investment. When purchasing tools to perform the procedures covered in this manual, consider the potential frequency of use. If starting a tool kit, consider purchasing a basic tool set from a large tool supplier. These sets are available in many tool combinations and offer substantial savings when compared to individually purchased tools. As work experience grows and tasks become more complicated, specialized tools can be added. Screwdrivers Screwdrivers of various lengths and types are manda- tory for the simplest tool kit. The two basic types are the slotted tip (flat blade) and the Phillips tip. These are available in sets that often include an assortment of tip sizes and shaft lengths. As with all tools, use a screwdriver designed for the job. Make sure the size of the tip conforms to the size and shape of the fastener. Use them only for driving screws. Never use a screwdriver for prying or chiseling metal. Re- pair or replace worn or damaged screwdrivers. A worn tip may damage the fastener, making it difficult to remove. Wrenches Box-end, open-end and combination wrenches (Figure 10) come in a variety of types and sizes. The number stamped on the wrench refers to the distance between the work areas. This size must match the size of the fastener head. The box-end wrench is an excellent tool because it grips the fastener on all sides. This reduces the chance of the tool slipping. The box-end wrench is designed with either a 6 or 12-point opening. For stubborn or damaged fasteners, the 6-point provides superior holding ability by con- tacting the fastener across a wider area at all six edges. For general use, the 12-point works well. It allows the wrench to be removed and reinstalled without moving the handle over such a wide arc. An open-end wrench is fast and works best in areas with limited overhead access. It contacts the fastener at only two points, and can slip under heavy force, or if the tool or fastener is worn. A box-end wrench is preferred in most instances, especially when breaking loose and applying the final tightness to a fastener. The combination wrench has a box-end on one end, and an open-end on the other. This combination makes it a very convenient tool. Adjustable Wrenches An adjustable wrench or Crescent wrench (Figure 11) can fit nearly any nut or bolt head that has clear access around its entire perimeter. Adjustable wrenches are best used as a backup wrench to keep a large nut or bolt from turning while the other end is being loosened or tightened with a box-end or socket wrench. Adjustable wrenches contact the fastener at only two points, which makes them more subject to slipping off the fastener. The fact that one jaw is adjustable and may loosen only aggravates this shortcoming. Make certain the solid jaw is the one transmitting the force. Socket Wrenches, Ratchets and Handles Sockets that attach to a ratchet handle (Figure 12) are available with 6-point (A, Figure 13) or 12-point (B) openings and different drive sizes. The drive size indicates the size of the square hole that accepts the ratchet handle. The number stamped on the socket is the size of the work area and must match the fastener head. GENERAL INFORMATION 9 1 12 13

As with wrenches, a 6-point socket provides superior-holding ability, while a 12-point socket needs to be moved only half as far to reposition it on the fastener. Sockets are designated for either hand or impact use. Impact sockets are made of thicker material for more du- rability. Compare the size and wall thickness of a 19-mm hand socket (A, Figure 14) and the 19-mm impact socket (B). Use impact sockets when using an impact driver or air tools. Use hand sockets with hand-driven attachments. WARNING Do not use hand sockets with air or impact tools, as they may shatter and cause injury. Always wear eye protection when using impact or air tools. Various handles are available for sockets. The speed handle is used for fast operation. Flexible ratchet heads in varying lengths allow the socket to be turned with varying force, and at odd angles. Extension bars allow the socket setup to reach difficult areas. The ratchet is the most ver- satile. It allows the user to install or remove the nut without removing the socket. Sockets combined with any number of drivers make them undoubtedly the fastest, safest and most convenient tool for fastener removal and installation. Impact Driver An impact driver provides extra force for removing fasteners, by converting the impact of a hammer into a turning motion. This makes it possible to remove stubborn fasteners without damaging them. Impact drivers and in- terchangeable bits (Figure 15) are available from most tool suppliers. When using a socket with an impact driver make sure the socket is designed for impact use. Refer to Socket Wrenches, Ratchets and Handles in this section. WARNING Do not use hand sockets with air or impact tools as they may shatter and cause injury. Always wear eye protection when using impact or air tools. Allen Wrenches Allen or setscrew wrenches (Figure 16) are used on fasteners with hexagonal recesses in the fastener head. These wrenches come in L-shaped bar, socket and T-handle types. Use a metric set when working on most vehicles. Allen bolts are sometimes called socket bolts. Torque Wrenches A torque wrench is used with a socket, torque adapter or similar extension to tighten a fastener to a measured torque. Torque wrenches come in several drive sizes (1/4, 3/8, ½ and ¾) and have various methods of reading the torque value. The drive size is the size of the square drive that accepts the socket, adapter or extension. Common methods of reading the torque value are the deflecting beam (A, Figure 17), the dial indicator (B) and the audi- ble click (C). 10 CHAPTER ONE 14 15 16

Yamaha Mountain Max MM600 MM700 Snowmobile Complete Workshop Repair Manual 2000 2001 2002

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