1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 Suzuki GSX750F Katana models Factory Service Manual

Introduction 0-7 The GSX-R750 and GSX-R1100 T he phrase race-replica was bandied about a lot when the first GSX-R was launched in 1985. This was a mistake, the smaller GSX-R was not a race-replica, it was a racer: period. It even looked like the factory endurance racer on which various components had been developed. The GSX-R didn't make any more power than its competitors, both the Suzuki and the F2750 Yamaha claimed to make 100 bhp and the 900 cc GPZ Kawasaki made 115 bhp, it was the fact the thing only weighed 388 Ib that made it so amazing. The old saying goes that the most expensive thing to add to a bike is lightness, but Suzuki managed it with a combination of lightweight components, oil cooling, and a decided lack of creature comforts. The frame weighed only 18 Ib without the swinging arm and wrapped around a motor that was pared down to the minimum possible weight thanks to oil cooling. Five-and-a-half litres of the stuff were pumped around the cylinder head and cooled in a big radiator thus enabling all the top-end components to be as light as possible. On the road, the GSX-R felt like a racer. A third of the power arrived between 7000 and 9000 rpm, the flat-slide carbs didn't like being snapped open at low revs, and the chassis was very, very sensitive. If you twitched so did the bike, despite the unfashionably large 18-inch front wheel. I once took my left hand off the bars on one of the first GSX-Rs to look over my shoulder and was rewarded with a lock-to-lock tank-slapper. I was on one of London's major arterial roads at the time... By contrast the first of the 1100 cc GSX-Rs had all of the technology, lack of weight and race-track cred of the 750, but it was astoundingly civilised. The twitchiness was gone, the fussy carburation banished. In its place was a massively powerful yet very usable if slightly plain sports tourer that could hustle when asked. After all, this is still a race-track bred machine we're talking about - it just didn't seem like it. The GSX750F Katana model Over the years the 750 GSX-R was tamed whereas the 1100 got less civilised. The J-model 750 of 1988 was the first to get the Slingshot designation - actually a reference to a new carburettor design - and a new short- stroke motor (73 x 44.7 mm replacing the original 70 x 48.7 mm). It also got a substantial, and very modern, restyle with more rounded lines including air ducts either side of the headlights. The 1990 L-model changed again, this time back to the original dimensions of 70 x 48.7 mm. The 1100's major changes tended to lag a year behind the 750's. It was the 1989 K-model that got the short-stroke 78 x 59 mm 1127 cc motor to replace the original 76 x 78 mm 1052 cc lump and the following year it got upside-down front forks. Both the 750 and 1100 oil-cooled motors were superseded by new, water-cooled designs in 1992 and 1993, respectively. The GSX600F, 750F and 11 OOF (Katana) R iders who didn't need a cutting-edge sportster also benefited from the GSX-R's development, because the engines were used in a new generation of GSX models (Katanas in the US). The 750 was sleeved down for the GSX600, a budget bike that was deliberately built to a price and not intended to compete with the Supersports 600s like the FZR or CBR. All-enveloping bodywork hid the steel chassis and produced an effect that one observer likened to a teapot when it appeared in 1987. Aesthetics aside, the GSX was astounding value for money and the following year a better looking 750 cc version was launched. In late '87 the 1100 motor was used in a GSX aimed at the sports tourer segment occupied by FJ Yamahas and CBR Hondas. It was one of those bikes that wasn't well received on its launch but as time went on it, like the GSXs, revealed itself as yet another very good motorcycle. And when you took the price into account they were seen as exceptional bikes. Acknowledgements O ur thanks are due to Joe Ortiz who suggested and arranged many of the photographs in addition to performing mechanical work. NGK Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd supplied the color spark plug condition photographs and the Avon Rubber Company provided information on tire fitting. Thanks are also due to Redcat Marketing and Kel Edge for supplying colour transparencies, to Fred Furlong of Yeovil for supplying the GSX-R1100 on the front cover, and to Phil Flowers who carried out the front cover photography. The introduction, "Suzuki - Every Which Way" was written by Julian Ryder. About this Manual T he aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your motorcycle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the motorcycle into a dealer and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labour and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself. References to the left or right side of the motorcycle assume you are sitting on the seat, facing forward. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but motorcycle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular motorcycle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

0-8 Safety first! Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe simple precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following is not a comprehensive list of all dangers; it is intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work you carry out on your bike. Asbestos • Certain friction, insulating, sealing and other products - such as brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos. Fire • Remember at all times that petrol is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Never use petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent. • Always disconnect the battery earth terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. • It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. Fumes • Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloro- ethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. • When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapours. • Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. • Always disconnect the battery groum (earth) terminal before working on the fuel o electrical systems (except where noted). • If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cove when charging the battery from an externa source. Do not charge at an excessive rate o the battery may burst. • Take care when topping up, cleaning o' carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte evenwhen diluted, is very corrosive anc should not be allowed to contact the eyes 01 skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid. Electricity The battery • Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. • When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc., always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded (earthed). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards. • A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the electrical system, such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is used, the secondary (HT) voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

identification numbers 0-9 Frame and engine numbers The frame serial number is stamped into a plate on the left side of the frame near the front. The engine serial number is on the crankcase near the oil filler cap. Both of these numbers should be recorded and kept in a safe place so they can be furnished to law enforcement officials in the event of theft. The frame serial number, engine serial number and carburetor identification number should also be kept in a handy place (such as with your driver's license) so they are always available when purchasing or ordering parts for your machine. The models covered by this manual are as follows: Katana 600 (GSX600F), 1988 on (US) GSX600F, January 1988 through 1995 (UK) GSX-R750, 1986 through 1992 (US) GSX-R750, March 1985 through 1992 (UK) Katana 750, 1989 on (US) GSX750F, January 1989 on (UK) Katana 1100, 1988 through 1993 (US) GSX1100F, October 1987 on (UK) GSX-R1100, 1986 through 1992 (US) GSX-R1100, March 1986 through 1992 (UK) Model year identification Suzuki uses a letter code to designate model years, as follows: F G H J -1985 -1986 - 1987 - 1988 K- L- M- N- 1989 1990 1991 1992 P- R- S- T- 1993 1994 1995 1996 US To identify the model year on a US bike, look at the first digit of the second part of the frame number. For example, the frame number JS1GR75A-G2100001 indicates a 1986 model, because G (the code for 1986) is the first digit of the second part of the frame number. UK On UK bikes, the model year code doesn't appear in the frame number. Instead, refer to the accompanying table, which lists the starting frame number for each model and year. Buying spare parts Once you have found all the identification numbers, record them for reference when buying parts. Since the manufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (companies UK model GSX-R750 GSX-R1100 GSX600F GSX750F GSX1100F Year 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 on 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 on 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 on Code F G H J K L M N G H J K L M N J K L M N P R S K L M N P R S J K L M N P R Starting frame number GR75A-100001 GR75A-107368 GR75A-112130 GR77A-100001 GR77A-104392 GR7AA-100034 GR7AA-100001 Not available GU74B-100001 GU74B-103282 GU74B-106265 GV73B-100001 GV73B-103392 GV73B-106082 GV73B-108660 GN72A-100001 to 103968 GN72A-103979 to 104098 GN72A-103969 to 103978 GN72A-104099 GN72A-106385 GN72A-110633 GN72A-115034 GN72A-118194 GN72A-121465 GN72A-123718 GR78A-100001 GR78A-105765 GR78A-113118 GR78A-119920 GR78A-125061 GR78A-131112 GR78A-134162 GV72A-100001 GV72A-101093 GV72A-101223 GV72A-101584 GV72A-101990 GV72D-101019 GV72A-102304 that manufacture various components on the machine), providing the ID numbers is the only way to be reasonably sure that you are buying the correct parts. Whenever possible, take the worn part to the dealer so direct comparison with the new component can be made. Along the trail from the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are numerous places that the part can end up with the wrong number or be listed incorrectly. The two places to purchase new parts for your motorcycle - the accessory store and the franchised dealer - differ in the type of parts they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your motorcycle, the accessory dealer is usually limited to normal high wear items such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have major suspension components, cylinders, transmission gears, or cases. Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but you can't always be sure of what you're getting. Once again, take your worn part to the wrecking yard (breaker) for direct comparison. Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to deal directly with someone who specializes in parts for your particular make. The frame number is stamped on a plate on the left side of the frame . . . . as well as on the steering head The engine number is stamped on the crankcase near the oil filler cap

0-10 Daily (pre-ride) checks 1 Brake and clutch fluid levels Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a dangerous loss of braking/clutch effectiveness. Before you start: • Make sure you have the correct hydraulic fluid - DOT 4. • With the motorcycle on the centerstand, turn the handlebars until the top of the front brake (or clutch) master cylinder is as level as possible. If necessary, loosen the lever clamp bolts and rotate the master cylinder assembly slightly to make it level. Bike care: • The fluid in the front and rear brake master cylinder reservoirs will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down. • If the fluid level was low or requires repeated topping-up, inspect the brake or clutch system for leaks. • In order to ensure proper operation of the hydraulic disc brakes (and the clutch on hydraulic clutch models), the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs must be properly maintained. • Check the operation of both brakes before taking the machine on the road; if there is evidence of air in the system (spongy feel to lever or pedal), it must be bled as described in Chapter 6. Similarly any air in the clutch system must be bled as described in Chapter 2. H Look closely at the inspection window in the master cylinder ' reservoir. Make sure that the fluid level is above the Lower line on the reservoir. On models with a screw top cap (on other models the cap will be held by two screws), remove the security clamp . . . . and remove the cap together with the rubber diaphragm. Top up with DOT 4 hydraulic fluid until the level is above the lower level line.

Daily (pre-ride) checks 0-11 5 On some models, the rear reservoir is visible through an inspection hole in the fairing. The rear reservoir is mounted to the frame. Remove the seat for access. 2 Engine/transmission oil level Before you start: • Place the motorcycle on the centerstand, then start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Where no centerstand is fitted, support the motorcycle in an upright position using an auxiliary stand. f Caution: Do not run the engine in an enclosed space such as a garage or shop. • Stop the engine and allow the motorcycle to sit undisturbed on its stand for one minute. Make sure that the motorcycle is on level ground. Bike care: • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. If there is no sign of oil leakage from the joints and gaskets the engine could be burning oil (see Fault Finding). The correct oil • Modern, high-revving engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your bike is used. • Always top up with a good quality oil of the specified type and viscosity and do not overfill the engine. Oil type Oil viscosity API grade SE or SF (min) SAE 10W-40 1 With the engine off and the motorcycle upright, check the oil level in the window located at the lower part of the right crankcase cover. The oil level should be between the F (full) and L (low) level marks next to the window.

0-12 Daily (pre-ride) checks 3 Clutch operation (cable clutch) Bike care: • Correct clutch freeplay is necessary to ensure proper clutch operation and reasonable clutch service life. Freeplay normally changes because of cable stretch and clutch wear, so it should be checked and adjusted periodically. • If the lever is stiff to operate and doesn;t return quickly, lubricate the cable (see Chapter 1). • Refer to the table for freeplay measurement. Too little freeplay may result in the clutch not engaging completely (slip). If there is too much freeplay, the clutch might not release fully (drag). • If a small amount of cable adjustment is required, use the fine adjuster at the top of the cable. If a large amount of adjustment is required, use the coarse adjuster at the lower Model GSX600F -1988 through 1993 models GSX600F - 1994-on models GSX750F -1989 through 1994 models GSX750F - 1995-on models GSX-R750 models end of the cable. If no more cable adjustment is possible, go on to check the freeplay in the clutch release mechanism as described in Chapter 1 (GSX600F and GSX750F models), or replace the clutch cable with a new one (GSX-R750 models). Freeplay 4 mm (0.16 inch) at lever stock 10 to 15 mm (0.4 to 0.6 inch) at lever end 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch) at lever stock 10 to 15 mm (0.4 to 0.6 inch) at lever end 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch) at lever stock 1 Clutch cable freeplay measurement at lever stock. Pull in on the lever until resistance is felt, then note how far the lever has moved away from its stock at the pivot end. Clutch cable freeplay measurement at lever end. Pull in on the lever until resistance is felt, then note how far the lever ball end is from its at-rest position. 3 A small amount of adjustment can be made using the fine adjuster at the clutch lever. Always retighten the lockwheel (where fitted) once the adjustment is complete. On GSX600F and GSX750F models use the cable lower (coarse) adjuster on the engine left side for large amounts of adjustment. Tighten the locknut when adjustment is complete. 5 On GSX-R750 models use the cable lower (coarse) adjuster on the engine right side for large amounts of adjustment. Tighten the locknut when adjustment is complete.

Daily (pre-ride) checks 0-13 4 Tires The correct pressures: • The tires must be checked when cold, not immediately after riding. Note that low tire pressures may cause the tire to slip on the rim or come off. High tire pressures will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling. • Use an accurate pressure gauge. • Proper air pressure will increase tire life and provide maximum stability and ride comfort. Tire care: • Check the tires carefully for cuts, tears, embedded nails or other sharp objects and excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with excessively worn tires is extremely hazardous, as traction and handling are directly affected. • Check the condition of the tire valve and ensure the dust cap is in place. • Pick out any stones or nails which may have become embedded in the tire tread. If left, they will eventually penetrate through the casing and cause a puncture. • If tire damage is apparent, or unexplained loss of pressure is experienced, seek the advice of a tire fitting specialist without delay. Tire tread depth: • At the time of writing UK law requires that tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of the tread breadth all the way around the tire, with no bald patches. Many riders, however, consider 2 mm tread depth minimum to be a safer limit. Suzuki recommend a minimum tread depth of 1.6 mm (0.06 inch) on the front and 2 mm (0.08 inch) on the rear. • Many tires now incorporate wear indicators in the tread. Identify the triangular pointer or TWI marking on the tire sidewail to locate the indicator bar and replace the tire if the tread has worn down to the bar. A Check the tire pressures when the tires • are cold and keep them properly inflated. Measure the tread depth at the center of the tire using a tread depth gauge. Tire tread wear indicator bar and its location marking on the sidewail (arrows). Loading/speed GSX600F models GSX-R750 -1985 through 1989 models: Solo riding With passenger GSX-R750 1990-on models GSX750F model - solo riding GSX750F model - with passenger GSX-R1100 -1986 through 1988 models: Solo riding With passenger GSX-R1100 1989 model: Solo riding With passenger GSX-R1100 1990 model: Solo riding With passenger GSX-R1100 1991 -on models GSX11 OOF models Front 33 psi (2.27 Bar) 36 psi (2,48 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 33 psi (2.27 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 33 psi (2.27 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 32 psi (2.20 Bar) 32 psi (2.20 Bar) 33 psi (2.27 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) Rear 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 42 psi (2.89 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 42 psi (2.89 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 42 psi (2.89 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 42 psi (2.89 Bar) 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 42 psi (2.89 Bar 36 psi (2.48 Bar) 42 psi (2.89 Bar)

0-14 Daily (pre-ride) checks 5 Suspension, steering and drive chain Suspension and steering: Drive chain: • Make sure the steering operates smoothly, • Check front and rear suspension for • Make sure the drive chain isn't out of without looseness and without binding. smooth operation, adjustment. • Make sure the drive chain is adequately lubricated. 6 Legal and safety checks Lighting and signalling: • Take a minute to check that the headlight, taillight, brake light and turn signals all work correctly. • Check that the horn sounds when the switch is operated. • A working speedometer is a statutory requirement in the UK. Safety: • Check that the throttle grip rotates smoothly and snaps shut when released, in all steering positions. • Check that the engine shuts off when the kill switch is operated. • Check that sidestand return spring holds the stand securely up when retracted. The same applies to the centerstand (where fitted). • Following the procedure in your owner's manual, check the operation of the sidestand switch. Fuel: • This may seem obvious, but check that you have enough fuel to complete your journey. If you notice signs of fuel leakage - rectify the cause immediately. • Ensure you use the correct grade fuel - see Chapter 3 Specifications.

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and Servicing Contents Air filter element - replacement 20 Air filter element - servicing 2 Battery electrolyte level/specific gravity - check 19 Brake fluid - replacement 22 Brake hoses - replacement 25 Brake system - checks 10 Clutch cable - check and adjustment 12 Clutch fluid - replacement 23 Clutch hose - replacement 26 Crankcase breather - inspection 9 Cylinder compression - check 6 Drive chain and sprockets - cleaning, lubrication, check and adjustment 1 Engine oil/filter - change 3 Degrees of difficulty Evaporative emission control system - check 8 Fasteners - check 18 Fork oil - replacement 16 Fuel hoses and vapor hose - replacement 24 Fuel system - check and filter cleaning 11 Idle speed and throttle operation/grip freeplay - check and adjustment 7 Lubrication - general 13 Spark plugs - replacement 21 Spark plugs - servicing 4 Steering head bearings - check and adjustment 14 Suspension - check 17 Valve clearances - check and adjustment 5 Wheels and tires - check 15 Easy, suitable for §K novice with little ^ experience g^ Fairly easy, suitable |k for beginner with ^ some experience gS Fairly difficult, ^, suitable for competent ^ DIY mechanic gS Difficult, suitable for ^ experienced DIY 3^ mechanic gS Very difficult, ^ suitable for expert DIY 3^ or professional g^ Specifications Katana 600 (GSX600F) model Engine Spark plugs Type 1988 through 1995 Standard NGK DR8ES Hot type (1) NGK DR8ES-L 1996 Standard NGK CR9EK Hot type (1) NGK CR8EK Gap 0.6 to 0.7 mm (0.024 to 0.028 inch) Engine idle speed 1988 and 1989 UK 1100+/-100 rpm All others 1300+/-100 rpm Valve clearances (COLD engine) Screw-type valve adjusters 0.10 to 0.15 mm (0.004 to 0.006 inch) Shim-type valve adjusters Intake 0.10 to 0.20 mm (0.004 to 0.008 inch) Exhaust 0.15 to 0.25 mm (0.006 to 0.010 inch) Cylinder compression pressure Standard 9.78 to 14.67 bars (142 to 213 psi) Minimum 7.85 bars (114 psi) Maximum variation '' .... 1.93 bars (28 psi) Cylinder numbering (from left side to right side of bike) 1 -2-3-4

1 1-2 Servicing Specifications Katana 600 (GSX600F) model (continued) Miscellaneous Brake pad minimum thickness To limit line Brake pedal height 45 mm (1.8 inch) below top of footpeg Freeplay adjustments Throttle cable 0.5 to 1.0 mm (0.020 to 0.040 inch) Clutch cable 1988 through 1993 models 4 mm (0.16 inch) 1994-on models 10 to 15 mm (0.4 to 0.6 inch) Drive chain Slack Standard 25 to 35 mm (1.0 to 1.4 inch) Service limit 1.77 inch (45 mm) 21-pin length 319.4 mm (12.6 inch) Battery electrolyte specific gravity 1.28 at 20 degrees C (68 degrees F) Minimum tire tread depth (2) Front 1.6 mm (0.060 inch) Rear 2.0 mm (0.080 inch) Tire pressures (cold) Front 2.27 bars (33 psi) Rear 2.48 bars (36 psi) Recommended lubricants and fluids Engine/transmission oil Type API grade SE or SF (minimum) Viscosity SAE10W-40 Capacity With filter change 3.8 liters (4.0 US qt, 6.7 Imp pt) Oil change only 3.6 liters (3.8 US qt, 6.3 Imp pt) Engine overhaul 5.0 liters (5.3 US qt, 8.8 Imp pt) Brake fluid DOT 4 Fork oil Type SAE 10 - fork oil Amount 1988 460 cc (15.5 US fl oz, 16.2 Imp fl oz) 1989 on 478 cc (16.1 US fl oz, 16.8 Imp fl oz) Oil level 1988 134 mm (5.28 inch) 1989 on 100 mm (3.93 inch) Drive chain 20W-50 engine oil (not chain lube) Cables and lever pivots Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Sidestand/centerstand pivots Medium-weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Brake pedal/shift lever pivots Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Throttle grip Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant Torque specifications Oil drain plug 20 to 25 Nm (18 to 25 ft-lbs) Spark plugs New plugs 1/2 turn after gasket touches engine Used plugs 1/4 turn after gasket touches engine Valve cover bolts See Chapter 2 GSX-R750 model Engine Spark plugs Type 1985 through 1987 Standard type NGK D9EA Hot type NGK D8EA 1988 and 1989 Standard type NGK JR9C Hot type NGK JR8C 1990 on NGKCR10EK, NDU31ETR Gap 0.6 to 0.7 mm (0.024 to 0.028 inch) Engine idle speed 1985 through 1990 1100+/-100 rpm 1991 on 1200+/-100 rpm

1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 Suzuki GSX750F Katana models Factory Service Manual

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