2005-2010 Yamaha 2.5hp 350hp 1 4 Cylinder V6 V8 4 Stroke Outboard Motor Service & Repair Manual

2005-10 RE 2.5·350 HP, 1·4 CYLl Managing Partners Executive Editor Production Managers Dean F. Morgantini Barry L. Beck Kevin M. G. Maher, A.S.E. Melinda Possinger Ronald Webb Manufactured in USA © 2011 Seloc Publishing 104 Willowbrook Lane West Chester. PA 19382 ISBN..:13: 978-0-89330-080-7 ISBN-10: 0-89330-080-2 3456789012 2109876543 www.sel ocmari ne .com 1-866-SELOC55

CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL 1·2 BOATING SAFETY 1·4 BOATING EQUIPMENT (NOT REQUIRED BUT RECOMMENDED) 1-10 SAFETY IN SERVICE 1-13 TROUBLESHOOTING 1-13 SHOP EQUIPMENT 1·17 TOOLS 1·19 FASTENERS, MEASUREMENT, AND CONVERSIONS 1·27 SPECIFICATIONS 1·28 GENERAL INFORMATION 2·2 LUBRICATION 2·6 ENGINE MAINTENANCE 2·12 BOAT MAINTENANCE 2·35 TUNE·UP 2·39 VALVE CLEARANCE 2·93 STORAGE (WHAT TO DO BEFORE & AFTER) 2·108 CLEARING A SUBMERGED MOTOR 2·112 SPECIFICATIONS 2·113 FUEL & COMBUSTION BASICS 3·2 FUEL TANK & LINES 3·7 CARBURETED FUEL SYSTEM 3·13 ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM 3.37 FUEL PUMP (LOW-PRESSURE) SERVICE 3·83 SPECIFICATIONS 3·90 UNDERSTANDING & TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 4·2 IGNITION SYSTEMS 4-8 CHARGING SYSTEM 4·42 CRANKING (ELECTRIC STARTER) SYSTEM 4·46 ELECTRICAL SWITCH/SOLENOID SERVICE 4·60 WIRING DIAGRAMS 4·63 SPECIFICATIONS LUBRICATION SYSTEM 5·2 COOLING SYSTEM 5·9 SPECIFICATIONS 5·26

CONTENTS POWERHEAD MECHANICAL 6·2 POWERHEAD REFINISHING 6·142 POWERHEAD BREAK-IN 6·156 EXPLODED VIEWS 6·157 SPECIFICATIONS LOWER UNIT 7·2 GEARCASE SERVICE 7·4 2.5 & 4 HP (1·CYL) MODELS 7·5 6·40 HP CARBURETED MODELS 7-10 40·350 HP EFI MODELS 7.37 JET DRIVE 7-88 HYDRO TILT LOCK SYSTEM 8·2 TRIM & TILT SYSTEMS 8·2 SINGLE TILT RAM POWER TRIM/TILT SYSTEMS (SMALL MOTOR) 8·3 3-RAM POWER TRIM/TILT SYSTEM (LARGE MOTOR) 8·18 WIRING DIAGRAMS 8·35 REMOTE CONTROLS 9·2 TILLER HANDLES 9· 15 HAND REWIND STARTERS 10·2 MASTER INDEX 10·19

INDUSTRY SUPPORTED PROGRAMS OUTBOARD, STERNDRIVE & PERSONAL WATERCRAFT • Dyno Testing • Boat & Trailer Rigging • Electrical & Fuel System Diagnostics • Powerhead, Lower Unit & Drive Rebuilds • Powertrlm & Tilt Rebuilds • Instrument & Accessories Installation For information regarding housing, financial aid and employment opportunities in the marine industry, contact us today: CALL TOLL FREE 1·8 -528-79 11111111111 11111111111 11111111111 11111111 11111111111 111111111111 111111111111 11111111111 11111111111 11111111 11111111 111111111111 111111111111 11111111111 111111111111 111111111111 11111111111 SM Name Address City .• ......... • ......... • ..... • State Zip Phone MARINE MECHANICS INSTITUTE A Division of CTI Dir 9751 Delegates Drive· Orlando, Florida 32837 __ 2844 W. Deer Valley Rd. • Phoenix, Al. 85027

Proper service and repair procedures are vital to the safe, reliable operation of all marine engines, as well as the personal safety of those performing repairs. This manual outlines procedures for servicing and repairing engines and drive systems using safe, effective methods. The procedures contain many NOTES, CAUTIONS and WARNINGS which should be followed, along with standard procedures, to minimize the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety. It is important to note that repair procedures and techniques, tools and parts for servicing these engines, as well as the skill and experience of the individual performing the work, vary widely. It is not possible to anticipate all of the conceivable ways or conditions under which the engine may be serviced, or to provide cautions as to all possible hazards that may result. Standard and accepted safety precautions and equipment should be used during cutting, grinding, chiseling, prying, or any other process that can cause material removal or projectiles. Some procedures require the use of tools specially designed for a specific task. Before substituting another tool or procedure, you must be completely satisfied that neither your personal safety, nor the performance of the vessel, will be endangered. All procedures covered in this manual requiring the use of special tools will be noted at the beginning of the procedure by means of an OEM symbol Additionally, any procedure requiring the use of an electronic tester or scan tool will be noted at the beginning of the procedure by means of a DVOM symbol ~ -W+ Although information in this manual is based on industry sources and is complete as possible at the time of publication, the possibility exists that some manufacturers made later changes which could not be included here. While striving for total accuracy, Seloc Publishing cannot assume responsibility for any errors, changes or omissions that may occur in the compilation of this data. We must therefore warn you to follow instructions carefully, using common sense. If you are uncertain of a procedure, seek help by inquiring with someone in your area who is familiar with these motors before proceeding. Part numbers listed in this reference are not recommendations by Seloc Publishing for any particular product brand name, simply iterations of the manufacturer's suggestions. They are also references that can be used with interchange manuals and aftermarket supplier catalogs to locate each brand supplier's discrete part number. Special tools are recommended by the manufacturers to perform a specific job. Use has been kept to a minimum, but, where absolutely necessary, they are referred to in the text by the part number of the manufacturer if at all possible; and also noted at the beginning of each procedure with one of the following symbols: OEM or DVOM. The OEM symbol usually denotes the need for a unique tool purposely designed to accomplish a specific task, it will also be used, less frequently, to notify the reader of the need for a tool that is not commonly found in the average tool box. The DVOM symbol is used to denote the need for an electronic test tool like an ohmmeter, multi-meter or, on certain later engines, a scan tool. These tools can be purchased, under the appropriate part number, from your local dealer or regional distributor, or an equivalent tool can be purchased locally from a tool supplier or parts outlet. Before substituting any tool for the one recommended, read the SAFETY NOTICE at the top of this page. Providing the correct mix of service and repair procedures is an endless battle for any publisher of "How-To" information. Users range from first time do-it yourselfers to professionally trained marine technicians, and information important to one is frequently irrelevant to the other. The editors at Seloc Publishing strive to provide accurate and articulate information on all facets of marine engine repair, from the simplest procedure to the most complex. In doing this, we understand that certain procedures may be outside the capabilities of the average DIYer. Conversely we are aware that many procedures are unnecessary for a trained technician.

In order to provide all of our users, particularly the DIYers, with a feeling for the scope of a given procedure or task before tackling it we have included a rating system denoting the suggested skill level needed when performing a particular procedure. One of the following icons will be included at the beginning of most procedures: SY EASY. These procedures are aimed primarily at the DIYer and can be classified, for the most part, as basic maintenance procedures; battery, fluids, filters, plugs, etc. Although certainly valuable to any experience level, they will generally be of little importance to a technician. MODERATE. These procedures are suited for a DIYer with experience and a working knowledge of mechanical procedures. Even an advanced DIYer or professional technician will occasionally refer to these procedures. They will generally consist of component repair and service procedures, adjustments and minor rebuilds. DIFFICULT. These procedures are aimed at the advanced DIYer and professional technician. They will deal with diagnostics, rebuilds and internal engine/drive components and will frequently require special tools. ILLED SKILLED. These procedures are aimed at highly skilled technicians and should not be attempted without previous experience. They will usually consist of machine work, internal engine work and gear case rebuilds. Please remember one thing when considering the above ratings-they are a guide for judging the complexity of a given procedure and are subjective in nature. Only you will know what your experience level is, and only you will know when a procedure may be outside the realm of your capability. First time DIYer, or life-long marine technician, we all approach repair and service differently so an easy procedure for one person may be a difficult procedure for another, regardless of experience level. All skill level ratings are meant to be used as a guide only! Use them to help make a judgement before undertaking a particular procedure, but by all means read through the procedure first and make your own decision-after all, our mission at Seloc is to make boat maintenance and repair easier for everyone whether you are changing the oil or rebuilding an engine. Enjoy boating! No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted or stored in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or by information storage or retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publisher. The materials contained in this manual are the intellectual property of Seloc Publishing, Inc., a Pennsylvania corporation, and are protected under the laws of the United States of America at Title 17 of the United States Code. Any efforts to reproduce any of the content of this manual, in any form, without the express written permission of Seloc Publishing, Inc. is punishable by a fine of up to $250,000 and 5 years in jail, plus the recovery of all proceeds including attorneys fees. Seloc Publishing expresses appreciation to the following companies who supported the production of this book: • Marine Mechanics Institute-Orlando, FL • Belks Marine-Holmes, PA Thanks to John Hartung and Judy Belk of Belk's Marine for for their assistance, guidance, patience and access to some of the motors photographed for this manual. Seloc Publishing would like to express thanks to the fine companies who participate in the production of all our books: • Hand tools supplied by Craftsman are used during all phases of our vehicle teardown and photography. • Many of the fine specialty tools used in our procedures were provided courtesy of Lisle Corporation. • Much of our shop's electronic testing equipment was supplied by Universal Enterprises Inc. (UEI).

ANCHORS .......................... i-10 AVOIDING THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES 1-3 AVOIDING TROUBLE................... 1-2 BAILING DEVICES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-10 BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES ......... 1-13 2-STROKE MOTORS ................. 1-14 4-STROKE MOTORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-16 COMBUSTION . . . . . . . . . .. .. .. . . . . . .. . 1-16 BOATING EQUIPMENT (NOT REQUIRED BUT RECOMMENDED) .. 1-10 ANCHORS ........................... 1-10 BAILING DEVICES .................... 1-10 COMPASS ......................... 1-11 FIRST AID KIT ........................ 1-10 OAR/PADDLE (SECOND MEANS OF PROPULSION) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . 1-10 TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-12 VHF-FM RADIO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-10 BOATING SAFETY..................... 1·4 COURTESY MARINE EXAMINATIONS . . . . 1-10 REGULATIONS FOR YOUR BOAT . . . . . . . 1-4 REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT....... 1-6 BOLTS, NUTS AND OTHER THREADED RETAINERS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-27 CAN YOU DO IT?...................... 1-2 CHEMICALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-17 CLEANERS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-18 LUBRICANTS & PENETRANTS .......... 1-18 SEALANTS .......................... 1-18 COMPASS .......................... 1-11 COMPASS PRECAUTIONS ............ 1-12 INSTALLATION ...................... 1-11 SELECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-11 COURTESY MARINE EXAMINATIONS .... 1-10 DIRECTIONS AND LOCATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 ELECTRONIC TOOLS ................ 1-23 BATTERY CHARGERS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-24 BATTERYTESTERS ................... 1-23 GAUGES ............................ 1-24 MULTI-METERS (DVOMS) .............. 1-24 FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . .. . .. . . . . .. . . . 1 ·27 BOLTS, NUTS AND OTHER THREADED RETAINERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-27 STANDARD AND METRIC MEASUREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-27 TORQUE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-27 FIRST AID KIT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-10 HAND TOOLS ......................... 1-19 HAMMERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-22 PLIERS ............................. 1-21 SCREWDRIVERS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-22 SOCKET SETS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-9 WRENCHES................... . . . 1-21 HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL............ 1·2 AVOIDING THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES.... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3 AVOIDING TROUBLE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 CAN YOU DO IT?..................... 1-2 DIRECTIONS AND LOCATIONS . . . . . . . . 1-2 MAINTENANCE OR REPAIR? . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 PROFESSIONAL HELP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3 PURCHASING PARTS................. 1-3 WHERE TO BEGIN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 MAINTENANCE OR REPAIR? . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 MEASURING TOOLS ................... 1-25 DEPTH GAUGES ..................... 1-26 DIAL INDICATORS .................... 1-25 MICROMETERS & CALIPERS ........... 1-25 TELESCOPING GAUGES .............. 1-26 OAR/PADDLE (SECOND MEANS OF PROPULSION) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-10 OTHER COMMON TOOLS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-22 PROFESSIONAL HELP................ . 1-3 PURCHASING PARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3 REGULATIONS FOR YOUR BOAT......... 1-4 CAPACITY INFORMATION... . . . . . . . . . . 1-4 CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE . . . .. . . . . 1-5 DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS . . . . . . . . . . 1-4 HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER........ 1-4 LENGTH OF BOATS................... 1-4 NUMBERING OF VESSELS............. 1-4 REGISTRATION OF BOATS............. 1-4 SALES AND TRANSFERS.............. 1-4 VENTILATION........................ 1-5 VENTILATION SYSTEMS............... 1-5 REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT . . . . . . . . 1-6 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-6 PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES....... 1-7 SOUND PRODUCING DEVICES......... 1-9 TYPES OF FIRES.............. . . . . . . 1-6 VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNALS . . . . . . . . . . . 1-9 WARNING SYSTEM........ . . . . . . . . .. 1-7 SAFETY IN SERVICE ................... 1·13 DO'S .............................. 1-13 DON'TS ........................... 1-13 SAFETYTOOLS ....................... 1-17 EYE AND EAR PROTECTION ........... 1-17 WORK CLOTHES ..................... 1-17 WORK GLOVES ...................... 1-17 SHOP EQUIPMENT .................... 1·17 SAFETYTOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-17 CHEMICALS ........................ 1-17 SPECIAL TOOLS ....................... 1-23 SPECIFICATIONS ...................... 1·28 CONVERSION FACTORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-28 METRIC BOLTS - TYPICAL TORQUE VALUES .................... 1-28 U.S. STANDARD BOLTS - TYPICAL TORQUE VALUES ................... 1-28 STANDARD AND METRIC MEASUREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-27 TOOLS ............................... 1·19 ELECTRONIC TOOLS ................. 1-23 HAND TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-19 MEASURING TOOLS ................. 1-25 OTHER COMMON TOOLS .............. 1-22 SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . 1-23 TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS . . . . .. . . . . . . 1-12 TORQUE ............................ 1-27 TROUBLESHOOTING .................. 1·13 BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES. . . . . . . . 1-13 VHF-FM RADIO ........................ 1-10 WHERE TO BEGIN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2

1-2 GENERAL, INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS This manual is designed to be a handy reference guide to maintaining and repairing your Yamaha Outboard. We strongly believe that regardless of how many or how few year's experience you may have, there is something new waiting here for you. This manual covers the topics that a factory service manual (designed for factory trained mechanics) and a manufacturer owner's manual (designed more by lawyers than boat owners these days) covers. It will take you through the basics of maintaining and repairing your outboard, step-by-step, to help you understand what the factory trained mechanics already know by heart. By using the information in this manual, any boat owner should be able to make better informed decisions about what they need to do to maintain and enjoy their outboard. Even if you never plan on touching a wrench (and if so, we hope that we can change your mind), this manual will still help you understand what a mechanic needs to do in order to maintain your engine. €an You mo It? If you are not the type who is prone to taking a wrench to something, NEVER FEAR. The procedures provided here cover topics at a level virtually anyone will be able to handle. And just the fact that you purchased this manual shows your interest in better understanding your outboard. You may even find that maintaining your outboard yourself is preferable in most cases. From a monetary standpoint, it could also be beneficial. The money spent on hauling your boat to a marina and paying a tech to service the engine could buy you fuel for a whole weekend of boating. And, if you are really that unsure of your own mechanical abilities, at the very least you should fully understand what a marine mechanic does to your boat. You may decide that anything other than maintenance and adjustments should be performed by a mechanic (and that's your call), but if so you should know that every time you board your boat, you are placing faith in the mechanic's work and trusting him or her with your well-being, and maybe your life. It should also be noted that in most areas a factory-trained mechanic will command a hefty hourly rate for off site service. If the tech comes to you this hourly rate is often charged from the time they leave their shop to the time that they return home. When service is performed at a boat yard, the clock usually starts when they go out to get the boat and bring it into the shop and doesn't end until it is tested and put back in the yard. The cost savings in doing the job yourself might be readily apparent at this point. Of course, if even you're already a seasoned Do-lt-Yourselfer or a Professional Technician, you'll find the procedures, specifications, special tips as well as the schematics and illustrations helpful when tackling a new job on a motor. 11111 To help you decide if a task is within your skill level, procedures will often be rated using a wrench symbol in the text. When present, the number of wrenches designates how difficult we feel the procedure to be on a 1·4 scale. For more details on the wrench icon rating system, please refer to the information under Skill Levels at the beginning of this manual. Wnere to Begin Before spending any money on parts, and before removing any nuts or bolts, read through the entire procedure or topic. This will give you the overall view of what tools and supplies will be required to perform the procedure or what questions need to be answered before purchasing parts. So read ahead and plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures thoroughly understood before attempting any work. Avoiding llirouble Some procedures in this manual may require you to "label and disconnect .. " a group of lines, hoses or wires. Don't be lulled into thinking you can remember where everything goes - you won't. If you reconnect or install a part incorrectly, the motor may operate poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you may instantly learn a very expensive lesson. A piece of masking tape, for example, placed on a hose and another on its fitting will allow you to assign your own label such as the letter "A', or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, you can reconnect the lines by matching letters or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve when saturated in some fluids (especially cleaning solvents). If a component is to be washed or cleaned, use another method of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker can be very handy for marking metal parts; but remember that some solvents will remove permanent marker. A scribe can be used to carefully etch a small mark in some metal parts, but be sure NOT to do' that on a gasket-making surface. SAFETY is the most important thing to remember when performing maintenance or repairs. Be sure to read the information on safety in this manual. Maintenance or Repair? Proper maintenance is the key to long and trouble-free engine life, and the work can yield its own rewards. A properly maintained engine performs better than one that is neglected. As a conscientious boat owner, set aside a Saturday morning, at least once a month, to perform a thorough check of items that could cause problems. Keep your own personal log to jot down which services you performed, how much the parts cost you, the date, and the amount of hours on the engine at the time. Keep all receipts for parts purchased, so that they may be referred to in case of related problems or to determine operating expenses. As a do-it-yourselfer, these receipts are the only proof you have that the required maintenance was performed. In the event of a warranty problem (on new motors), these receipts can be invaluable. It's necessary to mention the difference between maintenance and repair. Maintenance includes routine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of parts that show signs of normal wear. Maintenance compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies that something has broken or is not working. A need for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. For example: draining and refilling the gearcase oil is maintenance recommended by all manufacturers at specific intervals. Failure to do this can allow internal corrosion or damage and impair the operation of the motor, requiring expensive repairs. While no maintenance program can prevent items from breaking or wearing out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS CHEAPER THAN REPAIR. Directions and l.illocations + See Figure 1 Two basic rules should be mentioned here. First, whenever the Port side of the engine (or boat) is referred to, it is meant to specify the left side of the engine when you are sitting at the helm. Conversely, the Starboard means your right side. The Bow is the front of the boat and the Stern or Aft is the rear. (REAR) STERN --. AFTsELOC_1707 Fig. 1 Common terminology used for reference designation on boats of all size. These terms are used through out the text

GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS 1·3 Most screws and bolts are removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. An easy way to remember this is: righty- tighty; lefty-loosey. Corny, but effective. And if you are really.dense (and we have all been so at one time or another), buy a ratchet that 1s marked ON and OFF (like Snap-on® ratchets), or mark your own. This can be especially helpful when you are bent over backwards, upside down or otherwise turned around when working on a boat-mounted component. Professional Etelp Occasionally, there are some things when working on an outboard that are beyond the capabilities or tools of the average Do-lt-Yourselfer (DIYer). This shouldn't include most of the topics of this manual, but you will have to be the judge. Some engines require special tools or a selection of special parts even for some basic maintenance tasks. Ta.lk to other boaters who use the same model of engine and speak with a trusted marina to find if there is a particular system or component on your engine that is difficult to maintain. You will have to decide for yourself where basic maintenance ends and where professional service should begin. Take Y?ur tim~ ~nd do your research first (starting with the information contained w1'.h1n) and then make your own decision. If you really don't feel comfortable with attempting a procedure, DON'T DO IT. If you've gotten into something that may be o.ver your head, don't panic. Tuck your tail betwee~ your legs an.d.call ~marine mechanic. Marinas and independent shops will be able to finish a Job for you. Your ego may be damaged, but your boat ~ill be properly restored to its full running order. So, as long as you approach Jobs slowly and carefully, you really have nothing to lose and everything to gain by doing it yourself. On the other hand, even the most complicated repair is within the ability of a person who takes their time and follows the steps of a procedure. A rock climber doesn't run up the side of a cliff, he/she takes it one step at a time and in the end, what looked difficult or impossible was conquerable. Worry about one step at a time. Rurcllasing Rarts + See Figures 2 and 3 When purchasing parts there are two things to consider. The .first is quality and the second is to be sure to get the correct part for your engine. To get quality parts, always deal directly with a reputable retailer. To get the proper parts always refer to the model number from the information tag on your engine prior to calling the parts counter. An incorrect part .can adversely affect your engine performance and fuel economy, and will cost you more money and aggravation in the end. Fig. 2 By far the most important asset in purchasing parts is a knowledgeable and enthusiastic parts person Fig. 3 Parts catalogs, giving application and part number information, are provided by manufacturers for most replacement parts Just remember a tow back to shore will cost plenty. That charge is per hour from the time the towboat leaves their home port, to the time they return to their home port. Get the picture ... $$$? So whom should you call for parts? Well, there are many sources for the parts you will need. Where you shop for parts will be determined by what kind of parts you need, how much you want to pay, and the types of stores in your neighborhood. Your marina can supply you with many of the common parts you require. Using a marina as your parts supplier may be handy because of location uust walk right down the dock) or because the marina specializes in your particular brand of engine. In addition, it is always a good idea to get to know the marina staff (especially the marine mechanic). The marine parts jobber, who is usually listed in the yellow pages or whose name can be obtained from the marina, is another excellent source for parts. In addition to supplying local marinas, they also do a sizeable business in over-the-counter parts sales for the do-it-yourself er. Almost every boating community has one or more convenient marine chain stores. These stores often offer the best retail prices and the convenience of one-stop shopping for all your needs. Since they cater to the do-it-yourself er, these stores are almost always open weeknights, Saturdays, and Sundays, when the jobbers are usually closed. The lowest prices for parts are most often found in discount stores or the auto department of mass merchandisers. Parts sold here are name and private brand parts bought in huge quantities, so they can offer a competitive price. Private brand parts are made by major manufacturers and sold to large chains under a store label. And, of course, more and more large automotive parts retailers are stocking basic marine supplies. A.voicting tile Most ©ommon Mistakes There are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work: 1. Following the incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or adjustment. When taking something apart or putting it together, performing steps in the wrong order usually just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break something. Read the entire procedure before beginning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in which the instructions say you should, even if you can't immediately see a reason for it. When you're taking apart something that is very intricate, you might want to draw a picture of how it looks when assembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. When making adjustments, perform them in the proper order; often, one adjustment affects another, and you cannot expect satisfactory results unless each adjustment is made only when it cannot be changed by subsequent adjustments.

1-4 GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS 11111 Digital cameras are handy. If you've got access to one, take pictures of intricate assemblies during the disassembly process and refer to them during assembly for tips on part orientation. 2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is more common for overtorquing to cause damage, undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose causing serious damage. Especially when dealing with plastic and aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifications and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a torque figure is not available, remember that if you are using the right tool to perform the job, you will probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight that the tension you put on the wrench will be multiplied many times in actual force on what you are tightening. In 1971 Congress ordered the U.S. Coast Guard to improve recreational boating safety. In response, the Coast Guard drew up a set of regulations. Aside from these federal regulations, there are state and local laws you must follow. These sometimes exceed the Coast Guard requirements. This section discusses only the federal laws. State and local laws are available from your local Coast Guard. As with other laws, "Ignorance of the boating laws is no excuse." The rules fall into two groups: regulations for your boat and required safety equipment on your boat. Be€Jttlations !tor Mour Boat Most boats on waters within Federal jurisdiction must be registered or documented. These waters are those that provide a means of transportation between two or more states or to the sea. They also include the territorial waters of the United States. DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS A vessel of five or more net tons may be documented as a yacht. In this process, papers are issued by the U.S. Coast Guard as they are for large ships. Documentation is a form of national registration. The boat must be used solely for pleasure. Its owner must be a citizen of the U.S., a partnership of U.S. citizens, or a corporation controlled by U.S. citizens. The captain and other officers must also be U.S. citizens. The crew need not be. If you document your yacht, you have the legal authority to fly the yacht ensign. You also may record bills of sale, mortgages, and other papers of title with federal authorities. Doing so gives legal notice that such instruments exist. Documentation also permits preferred status for mortgages. This gives you additional security, and it aids in financing and transfer of title. You must carry the original documentation papers aboard your vessel. Copies will not suffice. REGISTRATION OF BOATS If your boat is not documented, registration in the state of its principal use is probably required. If you use it mainly on an ocean, a gulf, or other similar water, register it in the state where you moor it If you use your boat solely for racing, it may be exempt from the requirement in your state. Some states may also exclude dinghies, while others require registration of documented vessels and non-power driven boats. All states, except Alaska, register boats. In Alaska, the U.S. Coast Guard issues the registration numbers. If you move your vessel to a new state of principal use, a valid registration certificate is good for 60 days. You must have the registration certificate (certificate of number) aboard your vessel when it is in use. A copy will not suffice. You may be cited if you do not have the original on board. NUMBERING OF VESSELS A registration number is on your registration certificate. You must paint or permanently attach this number to both sides of the forward half of your boat. Do not display any other number there. The registration number must be clearly visible. It must not be placed on the obscured underside of a flared bow. If you can't place the number on the bow, place it on the forward half of the hulL If that doesn't work, put it on the superstructure. Put the number for an inflatable boat on a bracket or fixture. Then, firmly attach it to the forward half of the boat. The letters and numbers 3. Cross-threading. This occurs when a part such as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubricate fasteners, then to start threading with the part to be installed positioned straight inward. Always start a fastener, etc. with your fingers. If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and start over again at a different angle until it can be inserted and turned several times without much effort. Keep in mind that some parts may have tapered threads, so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part you're threading to the proper angle, but only if you don't force it or resist a change in angle. Don't put a wrench on the part until it has been tightened a couple of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resistance, and the part has not seated fully, don't force it. Pull it back out to make sure it's clean and threading properly. must be plain block characters and must read from left to right. Use a space or a hyphen to separate the prefix and suffix letters from the numerals. The color of the characters must contrast with that of the background, and they must be at least three inches high. In some states your registration is good for only one year. In others, it is good for as long as three years. Renew your registration before it expires. At that time you will receive a new decal or decals. Place them as required by state law. You should remove old decals before putting on the new ones. Some states require that you show only the current decal or decals. If your vessel is moored, it must have a current decal even if it is not in use. If your vessel is lost, destroyed, abandoned, stolen, or transferred, you must inform the issuing authority. If you lose your certificate of number or your address changes, notify the issuing authority as soon as possible. SALES AND TRANSFERS Your registration number is not transferable to another boat. The number stays with the boat unless its state of principal use is changed. HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER A Hull Identification Number (HIN) is like the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on your car. Boats built between November 1, 1972 and July 31, 1984 have old format HINs. Since August 1, 1984 a new format has been used. Your boat's HIN must appear in two places. If it has a transom, the primary number is on its starboard side within two inches of its top. If it does not have a transom or if it was not practical to use the transom, the number is on the starboard side. In this case, it must be within one foot of the stern and within two inches of the top of the hull side. On pontoon boats, it is on the aft crossbeam within one foot of the starboard hull attachment. Your boat also has a duplicate number in an unexposed location. This is on the boat's interior or under a fitting or item of hardware. LENGTH OF BOATS For some purposes, boats are classed by length. Required equipment, for example, differs with boat size. Manufacturers may measure a boat's length in several ways. Officially, though, your boat is measured along a straight line from its bow to its stern. This line is parallel to its keel. The length does not include bowsprits, boomkins, or pulpits. Nor does it include rudders, brackets, outboard motors, outdrives, diving platforms, or other attachments. CAPACITY INFORMATION + See Figure 4 Manufacturers must put capacity plates on most recreational boats less than 20 feet long. Sailboats, canoes, kayaks, and inflatable boats are usually exempt. Outboard boats must display the maximum permitted horsepower of their engines. The plates must also show the allowable maximum weights of the people on board. And they must show the allowable maximum combined weights of people, engine(s), and gear. Inboards and stern drives need not show the weight of their engines on their capacity plates. The capacity plate must appear where it is clearly visible to the operator when underway. This information serves to remind you of the capacity of your boat under normal circumstances. You should ask yourself, "Is my boat loaded above its recommended capacity" and, "Is my boat overloaded for the present sea and wind conditions?" If you are stopped by a legal authority, you may be cited if you are overloaded.