Suzuki Outboards 1988-2003 Workshop Service Repair Manual

OUTBOARD WORKSHOP SERVICE MANUAL 2-STROKE MOTORS 2 TO 225 HP YEARS 1988 TO 2003

CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL 1·2 BOATING SAFETY 1·4 SAFETY IN SERVICE 1·12 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 2·2 TOOLS 2·5 FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS 2·14 ENGINE MAINTENANCE 3·2 BOAT MAINTENANCE 3·8 TUNE·UP 3·12 WINTER STORAGE CHECKLIST 3·35 SPRING COMMISSIONING CHECKLIST 3·35 FUEL AND COMBUSTION 4·2 FUEL SYSTEM 4·3 TROUBLESHOOTING 4·7 CARBURETOR SERVICE 4·11 REED VALVE SERVICE 4·25 FUEL PUMP SERVICE 4·27 ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION 4·32 UNDERSTANDING AND TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 5·2 BREAKER POINTS IGNITION (MAGNETO IGNITION) 5·7 CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION (CDI) SYSTEM 5·11 ELECTRONIC IGNITION 5·38 CHARGING CIRCUIT 5·39 m~~a~oo ~ IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAMS 5·52 OIL INJECTION SYSTEM 6·2 COOLING SYSTEM 6·11 OIL INJECTION WARNING SYSTEMS 6·14 OVERHEAT WARNING SYSTEM 6·17

CONTENTS ENGINE MECHANICAL 7·2 POWERHEAD RECONDITIONING 7·32 LOWER UNIT 8·2 LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL 8·6 JET DRIVE 8·51 MANUAL TILT 9·2 GAS ASSISTED TILT 9·2 POWER TILT 9·3 POWER TRIMITILT 9·6 REMOTE CONTROL BOX 10·2 TILLER HANDLE 10·7 HAND REWIND STARTER 11·2 OVERHEAD TYPE STARTER 11·2 BENDIX TYPE STARTER 11·10 GLOSSARY 11·13 GLOSSARY INDEX 11·17 MASTER INDEX SUPPLEMENT: DT5Y AND ADDITIONAL INFORMATION 12·2 ON MOST OTHER MODELS, INCLUDING UPDATED SUPPLEMENT CARBURETOR AND IGNITION SPECIFICATIONS

HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL 1-2 CAN YOU DO IT? 1-2 WHERE TO BEGIN 1-2 AVOIDING TROUBLE 1-2 MAINTENANCE OR REPAIR? 1-2 DIRECTIONS AND LOCATIONS 1-2 PROFESSIONAL HELP 1-2 PURCHASING PARTS 1-3 AVOIDING THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES 1-3 BOATING SAFETY 1-4 REGULATIONS FOR YOUR BOAT 1-4 DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS 1-4 REGISTRATION OF BOATS 1-4 NUMBERING OF VESSELS 1-4 SALES AND TRANSFERS 1-4 HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER 1-4 LENGTH OF BOATS 1-4 CAPACITY INFORMATION 1-4 CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE 1-4 VENTILATION 1-5 VENTILATION SYSTEMS 1-5 REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT 1-5 TYPES OF FIRES 1-5 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS 1-5 WARNING SYSTEM 1-7 PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES 1-7 SOUND PRODUCING DEVICES 1-9 VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNALS 1-9 EQUIPMENT NOT REOUIRED BUT RECOMMENDED 1-10 SECOND MEANS OF PROPULSION 1-10 BAILING DEVICES 1-10 FIRST AID KIT 1-10 ANCHORS 1-10 VHF-FM RADIO 1-11 TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS 1-11 COURTESY MARINE EXAMINATIONS 1-11 SAFETY IN SERVICE 1-12 DO'S 1-12 DON'TS 1-12

1-2 GENERAL INFORMATION AND BOATING SAFETY HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL This manual is designed to be a handy reference guide to maintaining and repairing your Suzuki 2-stroke outboard. We strongly believe that regardless of how many or how few years experience you may have, there is something new waiting here for you. This manual covers the topics that a factory service manual (designed for factory trained mechanics) and a manufacturer owner's manual (designed more by lawyers these days) covers. It will take you through the basics of maintaining and repairing your outboard, step-by-step, to help you understand what the factory trained mechanics already know by heart. By using the information in this manual, any boat owner should be able to make better informed decisions about what they need to do to maintain and enjoy their outboard. Even if you never plan on touching a wrench (and if so, we hope that you will change your mind), this manual will still help you understand what a mechanic needs to do in order to maintain your engine. Can You [)o It? If you are not the type who is prone to taking a wrench to something, NEVER FEAR. The procedures in this manual cover topics at a level virtually anyone will be able to handle. And just the fact that you purchased this manual shows your interest in better understanding your outboard. You may find that maintaining your outboard yourself is preferable in most cases. From a monetary standpoint, it could also be beneficial. The money spent on hauling your boat to a marina and paying a tech to service the engine could buy you fuel for a whole weekend's boating. If you are unsure of your own mechanical abilities, at the very least you should fully understand what a marine mechanic does to your boat. You may decide that anything other than maintenance and adjustments should be performed by a mechanic (and that's your call), but know that every time you board your boat, you are placing faith in the mechanic's work and trusting him or her with your well-being, and maybe your life. It should also be noted that in most areas a factory trained mechanic will command a hefty hourly rate for off site service. This hourly rate is charged from the time they leave their shop to the time they return home. The cost sav- ings in doing the job yourself should be readily apparent at this point. Where to Begin Before spending any money on parts, and before removing any nuts or bolts, read through the entire procedure or topic. This will give you the overall view of what tools and supplies will be required to perform the procedure or what ques- tions need to be answered before purchasing parts. So read ahead and plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures thoroughly understood before attempting any work. Avoiding Trouble Some procedures in this manual may require you to "label and disconnect ... " a group of lines, hoses or wires. Don't be lulled into thinking you can remember where everything goes - you won't. If you reconnect or install a part incorrectly, things may operate poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you may instantly learn a very, very expensive lesson. A piece of masking tape, for example, placed on a hose and another on its fitting will allow you to assign your own label such as the letter "A", or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, the lines can be reconnected by matching letters or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve when satu- rated in fluids. If a component is to be washed or cleaned, use another method of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker can be very handy for marking metal parts; but remember that fluids will remove permanent marker. SAFETY is the most important thing to remember when performing maintenance or repairs. Be sure to read the information on safety in this manual. Maintenance or Repair? Proper maintenance is the key to long and trouble-free engine life, and the work can yield its own rewards. A properly maintained engine performs better than one that is neglected. As a conscientious boat owner, set aside a Saturday morning, at least once a month, to perform a thorough check of items which could cause problems. Keep your own personal log to jot down which services you performed, how much the parts cost you, the date, and the amount of hours on the engine at the time. Keep all receipts for parts purchased, so that they may be referred to in case of related problems or to determine operating expenses. As a do-it-yourselfer, these receipts are the only proof you have that the required maintenance was performed. In the event of a warranty problem, these receipts will be invaluable. It's necessary to mention the difference between maintenance and repair. Maintenance includes routine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of parts that show signs of normal wear. Maintenance compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies that something has broken or is not working. A need for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. For example: draining and refilling the engine oil is maintenance recommended by all manufacturers at specific intervals. Failure to do this can allow internal cor- rosion or damage and impair the operation of the engine, requiring expensive repairs. While no maintenance program can prevent items from breaking or wear- ing out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS CHEAPER THAN REPAIR. Oirections and locations • See Figure 1 Two basic rules should be mentioned here. First, whenever the Port side of the engine (or boat) is referred to, it is meant to specify the left side of the engine when you are Sitting at the helm. Conversely, the Starboard means your right side. The Bow is the front of the boat and the Stern is the rear. Most screws and bolts are removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. An easy way to remember this is: righty-tighty; lefty-Ioosey. Corny, but effective. And if you are really dense (and we have all been so at one time or another), buy a ratchet that is marked ON and OFF, or mark your own. STERN -- AFT (REAR) 04701G10 Fig. 1 Common terminology used for reference designation on boats of all size. These terms are used though out the manual Professional Help Occasionally, there are some things when working on an outboard that are beyond the capabilities or tools of the average Do-It-Yourselfer (DIYer). This shouldn't include most of the topics of this manual, but you will have to be the judge. Some engines require special tools or a selection of special parts, even for basic maintenance. Talk to other boaters who use the same model of engine and speak with a trusted marina to find if there is a particular system or component on your engine that is difficult to maintain. For example, although the technique of valve adjustment on some engines may be easily understood and even performed by a DIYer, it might require a handy assortment of shims in various sizes and a few hours of disassembly to get to that point. Not having the assortment of shims handy might mean multiple trips back and forth to the parts store, and this might not be worth your time.

GENERAL INFORMATION AND BOATING SAFETY 1-3 You will have to decide for yourself where basic maintenance ends and where professional service should begin. Take your time and do your research first (starting with the information in this manual) and then make your own decision. If you really don't feel comfortable with attempting a procedure, DON'T DO IT If you've gotten into something that may be over your head, don't panic. Tuck your tail between your legs and call a marine mechanic. Marinas and independent shops will be able to finish a job for you. Your ego may be damaged, but your boat will be properly restored to its full running order. So, as long as you approach jobs slowly and carefully, you really have nothing to lose and everything to gain by doing it yourself. Purchasing Parts • See Figures 2 and 3 When purchasing parts there are two things to consider. The first is qual ity and the second is to be sure to get the correct part for your engine. To get qual- ity parts, always deal directly with a reputable retailer. To get the proper parts always refer to the information tag on your engine prior to calling the parts counter. An incorrect part c.an adversely affect your engine performance and fuel economy, and will cost you more money and aggravation in the end. Just remember, a tow back to shore will cost plenty. That charge is per hour from the time the towboat leaves their home port, to the time they return to their home port. Get the picture ... $$$? So who should you call for parts? Well, there are many sources for the parts you will need. Where you shop for parts will be determined by what kind of parts you need, how much you want to pay, and the types of stores in your neighborhood. Your marina can supply you with many of the common parts you require. Using a marina for as your parts supplier may be handy because of location (just walk right down the dock) or because the marina specializes in your particular brand of engine. In addition, it is always a good idea to get to know the marina staff (especially the marine mechanic). The marine parts jobber, who is usually listed in the yellow pages or whose name can be obtained from the marina, is another excellent source for parts. In addition to supplying local marinas, they also do a sizeable business in over- the-counter parts sales for the do-it-yourselfer. Almost every community has one or more convenient marine chain stores. These stores often offer the best retail prices and the convenience of one-stop shopping for all your needs. Since they cater to the do-it-yourselfer, these stores Fig. 2 By far the most important asset in purchasing parts is a knowledgeable and enthusiastic parts person 05001P01 04971P12 Fig. 3 Parts catalogs, giving application and part number information, are provided by manufacturers for most replacement parts are almost always open weeknights, Saturdays, and Sundays, when the jobbers are usually closed. The lowest prices for parts are most often found in discount stores or the auto department of mass merchandisers. Parts sold here are name and private brand parts bought in huge quantities, so they can offer a competitive price. Pri- vate brand parts are made by major manufacturers and sold to large chains under a store label. Avoiding the Most Common Mistakes There are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work: 1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or adjustment. When taking something apart or putting it together, performing steps in the wrong order usually just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break something. Read the entire procedure before beginning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in which the instructions say you should, even if you can't immediately see a rea- son for it. When you're taking apart something that is very intricate, you might want to draw a picture of how it looks when assembled at one pOint in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. When making adjustments, perform them in the proper order; often, one adjustment affects another, and you cannot expect satisfactory results unless each adjustment is made only when it cannot be changed by another. 2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is more common for overtorquing to cause damage, undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose causing serious damage. Especially when dealing with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque speCifications and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a torque figure is not available, remember that if you are using the right tool to perform the job, you will probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight that the tension you put on the wrench will be multiplied many times in actual force on what you are tight- ening. 3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubricate fasteners, then to start threading with the part to be installed positioned straight in. Always start a fastener, etc. with your fingers. If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and start over again at a different angle until it can be inserted and turned several times without much effort. Keep in mind that some parts may have tapered threads, so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part you're threading to the proper angle, but only if you don't force it or resist a change in angle. Don't put a wrench on the part until it has been tightened a couple of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resistance, and the part has not seated fully, don't force it. Pull it back out to make sure it's clean and threading properly.

1-4 GENERAL INFORMATION AND BOATING SAFETY BOATING SAFETY In 1971 Congress ordered the U.S. Coast Guard to improve recreational boating safety. In response, the Coast Guard drew up a set of regulations. Beside these federal regulations, there are state and local laws you must fol- low. These sometimes exceed the Coast Guard requirements. This section dis- cusses only the federal laws. State and local laws are available from your local Coast Guard. As with other laws, "Ignorance of the boating laws is no excuse." The rules fall into two groups: regulations for your boat and required safety equipment on your boat. Regulations For Your Boat Most boats on waters within Federal jurisdiction must be registered or documented. These waters are those that provide a means of transportation between two or more states or to the sea. They also include the territorial waters of the United States. DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS A vessel of five or more net tons may be documented as a yacht. In this process, papers are issued by the U.S. Coast Guard as they are for large ships. Documentation is a form of national registration. The boat must be used solely for pleasure. Its owner must be a U.S. citizen, a partnership of U.S. citizens, or a corporation controlled by U.S. citizens. The captain and other officers must also be U.S. citizens. The crew need not be. If you document your yacht, you have the legal authority to fly the yacht ensign. You also may record bills of sale, mortgages, and other papers of title with federal authorities. Doing so gives legal notice that such instruments exist. Documentation also permits preferred status for mortgages. This gives you additional security and aids financing and transfer of title. You must carry the original documentation papers aboard your vessel. Copies will not suffice. REGISTRATION OF BOATS If your boat is not documented, registration in the state of its principal use is probably required. If you use it mainly on an ocean, a gulf, or other similar water, register it in the state where you moor it. If you use your boat solely for racing, it may be exempt from the requirement in your state. States may also exclude dinghies. Some require registration of documented vessels and non-power driven boats. All states, except Alaska, register boats. In Alaska, the U.S. Coast Guard issues the registration numbers. If you move your vessel to a new state of principal use, a valid registration certificate is good for 60 days. You must have the registration certificate (certificate of number) aboard your vessel when it is in use. A copy will not suffice. You may be cited if you do not have the original on board. NUMBERING OF VESSELS A registration number is on your registration certificate. You must paint or permanently attach this number to both sides of the forward half of your boat. Do not display any other number there. The registration number must be clearly visible. It must not be placed on the obscured underside of a flared bow. If you can't place the number on the bow, place it on the forward half of the hull. If that doesn't work, put it on the super- structure. Put the number for an inflatable boat on a bracket or fixture. Then, firmly attach it to the forward half of the boat. The letters and numbers must be plain block characters and must read from left to right. Use a space or a hyphen to separate the prefix and suffix letters from the numerals. The color of the characters must contrast with that of the background, and they must be at least three inches high. In some states your registration is good for only one year. In others, it is good for as long as three years. Renew your registration before it expires. At that time you will receive a new decal or decals. Place them as required by state law. You should remove old decals before putting on the new ones. Some states require that you show only the current decal or decals. If your vessel is moored, it must have a current decal even if it is not in use. If your vessel is lost, destroyed, abandoned, stolen, or transferred, you must inform the issuing authority. If you lose your certificate of number or your address changes, notify the issuing authority as soon as possible. SALES AND TRANSFERS Your registration number is not transferable to another boat. The number stays with the boat unless its state of principal use is changed. HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER A Hull Identification Number (HIN) is like the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on your car. Boats built between November 1, 1972 and July 31, 1984 have old format HINs. Since August 1, 1984 a new format has been used. Your boat's HIN must appear in two places. If it has a transom, the primary number is on its starboard side within two inches of its top. If it does not have a transom or if it was not practical to use the transom, the number is on the starboard side. In this case, it must be within one foot of the stern and within two inches of the top of the hull side. On pontoon boats, it is on the aft cross beam within one foot of the starboard hull attachment. Your boat also has a duplicate number in an unex- posed location. This is on the boat's interior or under a fitting or item of hardware. LENGTH OF BOATS For some purposes, boats are classed by length. Required equipment, for example, differs with boat size. Manufacturers may measure a boat's length in several ways. Officially, though, your boat is measured along a straight line from its bow to its stern. This line is parallel to its keel. The length does not include bowsprits, boomkins, or pulpits. Nor does it include rudders, brackets, outboard motors, outdrives, diving platforms, or other attachments. CAPACITY INFORMATION • See Figure 4 Manufacturers must put capacity plates on most recreational boats less than 20 feet long. Sailboats, canoes, kayaks, and inflatable boats are usually exempt. Outboard boats must display the maximum permitted horsepower of their engines. The plates must also show the allowable maximum weights of the people on board. And they must show the allowable maximum combined weights of people, engines, and gear. Inboards and stern drives need not show the weight of their engines on their capacity plates. The capacity plate must appear where it is clearly visible to the operator when underway. This information serves to remind you of the capacity of your boat under normal circumstances. You should ask yourself, "Is my boat loaded above its recommended capacity" and, "Is my boat overloaded for the present sea and wind conditions?" If you are stopped by a legal authority, you may be cited if you are overloaded. BAHAMA INDUSTRiES, INC. . '~~ •. '~l,NI~Sl: AIIIAHEIM,. CALif, 92801 • 04701P20 Fig. 4 A U.S. Coast Guard certification plate indicates the amount of occupants and gear appropriate for safe operation of the vessel CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE Manufacturers are required to put compliance plates on motorboats greater than 20 feet in length. The plates must say, "This boat," or "This equipment

GENERAL INFORMATION AND BOATING SAFETY 1-5 complies with the U. S. Coast Guard Safety Standards in effect on the date of certification." Letters and numbers can be no less than one-eighth of an inch high. At the manufacturer's option, the capacity and compliance plates may be combined. VENTILATION A cup of gasoline spilled in the bilge has the potential explosive power of 15 sticks of dynamite. This statement, commonly quoted over 20 years ago, may be an exaggeration, however, it illustrates a fact. Gasoline fumes in the bilge of a boat are highly explosive and a serious danger. They are heavier than air and will stay in the bilge until they are vented out. Because of this danger, Coast Guard regulations require ventilation on many power boats. There are several ways to supply fresh air to engine and gasoline tank compartments and to remove dangerous vapors. Whatever the choice, it must meet Coast Guard standards . ... The following is not intended to be a complete discussion of the regulations. It is limited to the majority of recreational vessels. Contact your local Coast Guard office for further information. General Precautions Ventilation systems will not remove raw gasoline that leaks from tanks or fuel lines. If you smell gasoline fumes, you need immediate repairs. The best device for sensing gasoline fumes is your nose. Use it! If you smell gasoline in an engine compartment or elsewhere, don't start your engine. The smaller the compartment, the less gasoline it takes to make an explosive mixture. Ventilation for Open Boats In open boats, gasoline vapors are dispersed by the air that moves through them. So they are exempt from ventilation requirements. To be "open," a boat must meet certain conditions. Engine and fuel tank compartments and long narrow compartments that join them must be open to the atmosphere." This means they must have at least 15 square inches of open area for each cubic foot of net compartment volume. The open area must be in direct contact with the atmosphere. There must also be no long, unventilated spaces open to engine and fuel tank compartments into which flames could extend. Ventilation for All Other Boats Powered and natural ventilation are required in an enclosed compartment with a permanently installed gasoline engine that has a cranking motor. A compartment is exempt if its engine is open to the atmosphere. Diesel powered boats are also exempt. VENTILATION SYSTEMS There are two types of ventilation systems. One is "natural ventilation." In it, air circulates through closed spaces due to the boat's motion. The other type is "powered ventilation." In it, air is circulated by a motor driven fan or fans. Natural Ventilation System Requirements A natural ventilation system has an air supply from outside the boat. The air supply may also be from a ventilated compartment or a compartment open to the atmosphere. Intake openings are required. In addition, intake ducts may be required to direct the air to appropriate compartments. The system must also have an exhaust duct that starts in the lower third of the compartment. The exhaust opening must be into another ventilated compartment or into the atmosphere. Each supply opening and supply duct, if there is one, must be above the usual level of water in the bilge. Exhaust openings and ducts must also be above the bilge water. Openings and ducts must be at least three square inches in area or two inches in diameter. Openings should be placed so exhaust gasses do not enter the fresh air intake. Exhaust fumes must not enter cabins or other enclosed, non-ventilated spaces. The carbon monoxide gas in them is deadly. Intake and exhaust openings must be covered by cowls or similar devices. These registers keep out rain water and water from breaking seas. Most often, intake registers face forward and exhaust openings aft. This aids the flow of air when the boat is moving or at anchor since most boats face into the wind when anchored. Power Ventilation System Requirements • See Figure 5 Powered ventilation systems must meet the standards of a natural system. They must also have one or more exhaust blowers. The blower duct can serve as the exhaust duct for natural ventilation if fan blades do not obstruct the air flow when not powered. Openings in engine compartment, for carburetion are in addition to ventilation system requirements. 04891P17 Fig. 5 Typical blower and duct system to vent fumes from the engine compartment Required Safety Equipment Coast Guard regulations require that your boat have certain equipment aboard. These requirements are minimums. Exceed them whenever you can. TYPES OF FIRES There are four common classes of fires: o Class A-fires are in ordinary combustible materials such as paper or wood. o Class B-fires involve gasoline, oil and grease. o Class C-fires are electrical. o Class D-fires involve ferrous metals One of the greatest risks to boaters is fire. This is why it is so important to carry the correct number and type of extinguishers onboard. The best fire extinguisher for most boats is a Class B extinguisher. Never use water on Class B or Class C fires, as water spreads these types of fires. You should never use water on a Class C fire as it may cause you to be elec- trocuted. FIRE EXTINGUISHERS • See Figure 6 If your boat meets one or more of the following conditions, you must have at least one fire extinguisher aboard. The conditions are: o Inboard or stern drive engines o Closed compartments under seats where portable fuel tanks can be stored o Double bottoms not sealed together or not completely filled with flotation materials o Closed living spaces o Closed stowage compartments in which combustible or flammable materials are stored

1-6 GENERAL INFORMATION AND BOATING SAFETY 04701P29 Fig. 6 An approved fire extinguisher should be mounted close to the operator lor emergency use • Permanently installed fuel tanks • Boat is 26 feet or more in length. Contents of Extinguishers Fire extinguishers use a variety of materials. Those used on boats usually contain dry chemicals, Halon, or Carbon Dioxide (C03). Dry chemical extinguishers contain chemical powders such as Sodium Bicarbonate-baking soda. Carbon dioxide is a colorless and odorless gas when released from an extinguisher. It is not poisonous but caution must be used in entering compartments filled with it. It will not support life and keeps oxygen from reaching your lungs. A fire-killing concentration of Carbon Dioxide is lethal. If you are in a compartment with a high concentration of C03, you will have no difficulty breathing. But the air does not contain enough oxygen to support life. Unconsciousness or death can resu It. HALON EXTINGUISHERS Some fire extinguishers and 'built-in' or 'fixed' automatic fire extinguishing systems contain a gas called Halon. Like carbon dioxide it is colorless and odorless and will not support life. Some Halons may be toxic if in- haled. To be accepted to the Coast Guard, a fixed Halon system must have an indicator light at the vessel's helm. A green light shows the system is ready. Red means it is being discharged or has been discharged. Warning horns are available to let you know the system has been activated. If your fixed Halon system discharges, ventilate the space thoroughly before you enter it. There are no residues from Halon but it will not support life. Although Halon has excellent fire fighting properties, it is thought to deplete the earth's ozone layer and has not been manufactured since January 1, 1994. Halon extinguishers can be refilled from existing stocks of the gas until they are used up, but high federal excise taxes are being charged for the service. If you discontinue using your Halon extinguisher, take it to a recovery station rather than releasing the gas into the atmosphere. Compounds such as FE 241, designed to replace Halon, are now available. Fire Extinguisher Approval Fire extinguishers must be Coast Guard approved. Look for the approval number on the nameplate. Approved extinguishers have the following on their labels: "Marine Type USCG Approved, Size ... , Type ... ,162.208/," etc. In addition, to be acceptable by the Coast Guard, an extinguisher must be in serviceable condition and mounted in its bracket. An extinguisher not properly mounted in its bracket will not be considered serviceable during a Coast Guard inspection. Care and Treatment Make certain your extinguishers are in their stowage brackets and are not damaged. Replace cracked or broken hoses. Nozzles should be free of obstruc- tions. Sometimes, wasps and other insects nest inside nozzles and make them inoperable. Check your extinguishers frequently. If they have pressure gauges, is the pressure within acceptable limits? Do the locking pins and sealing wires show they have not been used since recharging? Don't try an extinguisher to test it. Its valves will not reseat properly and the remaining gas will leak out. When this happens, the extinguisher is useless. Weigh and tag carbon dioxide and Halon extinguishers twice a year. If their weight loss exceeds 10 percent of the weight of the charge, recharge them. Check to see that they have not been used. They should have been inspected by a qualified person within the past six months, and they should have tags show- ing all inspection and service dates. The problem is that they can be partially discharged while appearing to be fully charged. Some Halon extinguishers have pressure gauges the same as dry chemical extinguishers. Don't rely too heavily on the gauge. The extinguisher can be partially discharged and still show a good gauge reading. Weighing a Halon extinguisher is the only accurate way to assess its contents. If your dry chemical extinguisher has a pressure indicator, check it frequently. Check the nozzle to see if there is powder in it. If there is, recharge it. Occasionally invert your dry chemical extinguisher and hit the base with the palm of your hand. The chemical in these extinguishers packs and cakes due to the boat's vibration and pounding. There is a difference of opinion about whether hitting the base helps, but it can't hurt. It is known that caking of the chemical powder is a major cause of failure of dry chemical extinguishers. Carry spares in excess of the minimum requirement. If you have guests aboard, make certain they know where the extinguishers are and how to use them. Using a Fire Extinguisher A fire extinguisher usually has a device to keep it from being discharged aCCidentally. This is a metal or plastic pin or loop. If you need to use your extinguisher, take it from its bracket. Remove the pin or the loop and point the nozzle at the base of the flames. Now, squeeze the handle, and discharge the extinguisher's contents while sweeping from side to side. Recharge a used extinguisher as soon as possible. If you are using a Halon or carbon dioxide extinguisher, keep your hands away from the discharge. The rapidly expanding gas will freeze them. If your fire extinguisher has a horn, hold it by its handle. legal Requirements for Extinguishers You must carry fire extinguishers as defined by Coast Guard regulations. They must be firmly mounted in their brackets and immediately accessible. A motorboat less than 26 feet long must have at least one approved hand- portable, Type B-1 extinguisher. If the boat has an approved fixed fire extinguishing system, you are not required to have the Type B-1 extinguisher. Also, if your boat is less than 26 feet long, is propelled by an outboard motor, or motors, and does not have any of the first six conditions described at the beginning of this section, it is not required to have an extinguisher. Even so, it's a good idea to have one, especially if a nearby boat catches fire, or if a fire occurs at a fuel dock. A motorboat 26 feet to under 40 feet long, must have at least two Type B-1 approved hand-portable extinguishers. It can, instead, have at least one Coast Guard approved Type B-2. If you have an approved fire extinguishing system, only one Type B-1 is required. A motorboat 40 to 65 feet long must have at least three Type B-1 approved portable extinguishers. It may have, instead, at least one Type B-1 plus a Type B-2. If there is an approved fixed fire extinguishing system, two Type B-1 or one Type B-2 is required.

GENERAL INFORMATION AND BOATING SAFETY 1-7 WARNING SYSTEM Various devices are available to alert you to danger. These include fire, smoke, gasoline fumes, and carbon monoxide detectors. If your boat has a gaI- ley, it should have a smoke detector. Where possible, use wired detectors. Household batteries often corrode rapidly on a boat. You can't see, smell, nor taste carbon monoxide gas, but it is lethal. As little as one part in 10,000 parts of air can bring on a headache. The symptoms of carbon monoxide pOisoning-headaches, dizziness, and nausea-are like sea sickness. By the time you realize what is happening to you, it may be too late to take action. If you have enclosed living spaces on your boat, protect yourself with a detector. There are many ways in which carbon monoxide can enter your boat. PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs) are commonly called life preservers or life jackets. You can get them in a variety of types and sizes. They vary with their intended uses. To be acceptable, they must be Coast Guard approved. Type I PFDs A Type I life jacket is also called an offshore life jacket. Type I life jackets will turn most unconscious people from facedown to a vertical or slightly backward position. The adult size gives a minimum of 22 pounds of buoyancy. The child size has at least 11 pounds. Type I jackets provide more protection to their wearers than any other type of life jacket. Type I life jackets are bulkier and less comfortable than other types. Furthermore, there are only two sizes, one for children and one for adults. Type I life jackets will keep their wearers afloat for extended periods in rough water. They are recommended for offshore cruising where a delayed rescue is probable. Type" PFDs • See Figure 7 A Type II life jacket is also called a near-shore buoyant vest. It is an approved, wearable device. Type II life jackets will turn some unconscious people from facedown to vertical or slightly backward positions. The adult size gives at least 15.5 pounds of buoyancy. The medium child size has a minimum of 11 pounds. And the small child and infant sizes give seven pounds. A Type II life jacket is more comfortable than a Type I but it does not have as much buoyancy. It is not recommended for long hours in rough water. Because of this, Type lis are recommended for inshore and inland cruising on calm water. Use them where there is a good chance of fast rescue. Q4891P07 Fig. 7 Type II approved flotation devices are recommended for inshore and inland cruising on calm water. Use them where there is a good chance of fast rescue Type III PFDs Type III life jackets or marine buoyant devices are also known as flotation aids. Like Type lis, they are designed for calm inland or close offshore water where there is a good chance of fast rescue. Their minimum buoyancy is 15.5 pounds. They will not turn their wearers face up. Type III devices are usually worn where freedom of movement is necessary. Thus, they are used for water skiing, small boat sailing, and fishing among other activities. They are available as vests and flotation coats. Flotation coats are useful in cold weather. Type Ills come in many sizes from small child through large adult. Life jackets come in a variety of colors and patterns-red, blue, green, camouflage, and cartoon characters. From a safety standpoint, the best color is bright orange. It is easier to see in the water, especially if the water is rough. Type IV PFDs • See Figures 8 and 9 Type IV ring life buoys, buoyant cushions and horseshoe buoys are Coast Guard approved devices called throwables. They are made to be thrown to people in the water, and should not be worn. Type IV cushions are often used as 04891P09 Fig. 8 Type IV buoyant cushions are made to be thrown to people in the water. If you can squeeze air out of the cushion, it is faulty and should be replaced 04891Pl0 Fig. 9 Type IV throwables, such as this ring life buoy, are not designed as personal flotation devices for unconscious people, non- swimmers, or children

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Suzuki Outboards 1988-2003 Workshop Service Repair Manual

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