© 2006 PDF Manual Master · CONTENTS 3 ENGINE MECHANICAL 4 CYLINDER 4 ENGINE MECHANICAL GM V6 AND VB ENGINES 5 ENGINE MECHANICAL FORD VB ENGINES 6 ENGINE OVERHAUL HOWro USE THIS MANUAL 1-2 BOATING SAFETY 14 SAFET'lIN SERVICE 1-11 TROUBlESHOOTING 1-1:1 TOOLSANDEQUIPMENT 1-1~ TOOLS . . 1-17 FAST!:NERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS 1-24 SPECIFICATIONS 1-25 ENGINE AND DRIVE MAINTENANCE 2-2 FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS 2-33 LUBRICATION POINTS 2-47 BOAT MAINTENANCE 2-49 WINTER STORAGE 2-53 FIRING ORDERS 2-54 SPRING COMMISSIONING 2-54 SPECIFICATIONS 2-56 ENGINE MECHANICAL 3-2 EXPLODED VIEWS 3-16 SPECIFICATIONS 3-19 ENGINE MECHANICAL 4-2 !:XPLODED VIEWS . 4-36 SPECIFICATIONS 4-41 ENGINE MECHANICAL EXPLODED VIEWS SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE RECONDITIONING 6-2 FUEL AND COMBUSTION 7-2 CARBURETED FUEL SYSTEM 7-3 ROCHESTER 2-GE AND NIKKI 2BBL 7-6 ROCHESTER 4ME 4BBL 7-10 HOLLEY 2010 2BBL 7-16 HOLLEY 2300 2BBL 7-20 HOLLEY 4011 4BBL7-25 HOLLEY 4150/4160/4175 4BBL 7-32 WIRING DIAGRAMS 7-44 SPECIFICATIONS 7-46 FUEL AND COMBUSTION 8-2 FORD ELECTRONIC MULTI-POINT FUEL INJECTION (MFI) 8-3 GM THROTTLE BODY FUEL INJECTION (TBI) 8-20 GM MULTI-POINT FUEL INJECTION (MFI) 8-20 WIRING SCHEMATICS 8-62 ECM P·IN LOCATIONS 8-74 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) CHARTS 8-79 FUEL FLOW DIAGRAMS 8-81 COMPONENT LOCATIONS 8-84 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 8-87

© 2006 PDF Manual Master CONTENTS COOLING SYSTEMS 9-2 MAINTENANCE AND TESTING 9-3 FLOW DIAGRAMS 9-8 COOLING SYSTEM 9 UNDERSTANDING AND TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 10-2 CHARGING SYSTEM 10-10 STARTER CIRCUIT 10-20 IGNITION SYSTEM 10-30 BREAKER POINT IGNITION SYSTEM 10-31 DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION (DI) SYSTEM 10-38 ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING (EST) SYSTEM 10-38 BREAKERLESS INDUCTIVE DISTRIBUTOR (BID) 10-45 VOLVO ELECTRONIC ENGINE MANAGEMENT (EMM) SYSTEM 10-49 FORD THICK FILM INTEGRATED IGNITION SYSTEM (TFI-IV) 10-50 DISTRIBUTORLESS ELECTRONIC IGNITION (EI) SYSTEM 10-54 INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES 10-56 SENDING UNITS AND SWITCHES 10-58 WIRING DIAGRAMS 10-60 SPECIFICATIONS 10-118 STERN DRIVE UNIT-280/290, SP, DP & DPX 11-2 UPPER GEAR HOUSING 11-6 INTERMEDIATE HOUSING 11-16 GEAR HOUSING (LOWER UNIT) 11-19 TRANSOM SHIELD 11-26 SPECIFICATIONS 12-25 STERN DRIVE UNIT -SX & DP-S 12-2 UPPER GEAR HOUSING 12-5 LOWER GEAR CASE (LOWER UNIT) 12-13 TRANSOM ASSEMBLY 12-17 SPECIFICATIONS 12-25 PJX WATERJET 13-2 JET DRIVE 13 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL TILT SYSTEM-280 & DP 14-2 POWER TRIM AND TILT-290, SP, DP & DPX 14-5 POWER TRIM AND TILT-SX AND DP-S 14-11 WIRING SCHEMATICS 14-33 TRIM AND TILT 14 MANUAL STEERING SYSTEM 15-2 POWER STEERING SYSTEM 15-3 STEERING SYSTEM 15 MASTER INDEX 15-14 MASTER INDEX

© 2006 PDF Manual Master BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES ..... 1-12 2-STROKE MOTORS .... .................. 1-12 4-STROKE ENGINES ..................... 1-14 COMBUSTION ................................ 1-14 BOATING SAFETy............................ 1·4 COURTESY MARINE EXAMINATIONS .............. 1-11 EQUIPMENT NOT REQUIRED BUT RECOMMENDED ............................ 1-10 REGULATIONS FOR YOUR BOAT. 1-4 REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT 1-5 CHEMICALS ....................................... 1-15 CLEANERS ..................................... 1-16 LUBRICANTS & PENETRANTS ..... 1-15 SEALANTS ...................................... 1-16 COURTESY MARINE EXAMINATIONS ............................. 1-11 ELECTRONIC TOOLS ........................ 1-21 BATIERYTESTERS ....................... 1-21 BATIERY CHARGERS ................... 1-21 GAUGES ......................................... 1-22 MULTIMETERS (DVOMS) ............... 1-21 EQUIPMENT NOT REQUIRED BUT RECOMMENDED ............................ 1-10 ANCHORS ....................................... 1-10 BAILING DEVICES ......................... 1-10 FIRST AID KIT ................................ 1-10 SECOND MEANS OF PROPULSION .......................... 1-10 TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS ........... 1-10 VHF-FM RADIO ............................... 1-10 FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS .................... 1·24 BOLTS, NUTS AND OTHER THREADED RETAINERS ............... 1-24 STANDARD AND METRIC MEASUREMENTS ........................... 1-24 TORQUE .......................................... 1-24 HAND TOOLS ..................................... 1-17 BREAKER BARS ............................ 1-19 HAMMERS ...................................... 1-20 PLIERS ............................................ 1-20 SCREWDRIVERS ........................... 1-20 SOCKET SETS ............................... 1-17 TORQUE WRENCHES .................... 1-18 WRENCHES .................................... 1-19 HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL ............ 1·2 AVOIDING THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES ......... 1-3 AVOIDING TROUBLE ..................... 1-2 CAN YOU DO IT? ............................ 1-2 DIRECTIONS AND LOCATIONS .... 1·2 MAINTENANCE OR REPAIR? ........ 1-2 PROFESSIONAL HELP .................. 1-3 PURCHASING PARTS .................... 1-3 WHERE TO BEGIN ......................... 1-2 MEASURING TOOLS ......................... 1-22 DEPTH GAUGES ............................ 1-23 DIAL INDICATORS .......................... 1-23 MICROMETERS & CALIPERS ....... 1-22 TELESCOPING GAUGES ............... 1-23 OTHER COMMON TOOLS ................. 1-20 REGULATIONS FOR YOUR BOAT ..... 1-4 CAPACITY INFORMATION ............. 1-4 CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE... 1-5 DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS ...... 1-4 HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER. 1-4 LENGTH OF BOATS ....................... 1-4 NUMBERING OF VESSELS ........... 1-4 SALES AND TRANSFERS .............. 1-4 VENTILATION .................................. 1-5 VENTILATION SYSTEMS ............... 1-5 REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT ... 1-5 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS .................. 1-6 PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES 1-7 SOUND PRODUCING DEViCES.... 1-8 TYPES OF FIRES ........................... 1-5 VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNALS ........ 1-9 WARNING SYSTEM ........................ 1-7 SAFETY IN SERVICE ........................ 1·11 DO'S ................................................ 1-11 DON'TS ........................................... 1-11 SAFETY TOOLS .. .................. ............. 1-15 EYE AND EAR PROTECTION ........ 1-15 WORK CLOTHES ............................ 1-15 WORK GLOVES .............................. 1-15 SPECIAL TOOLS ................................ 1-21 SPECIFICATIONS .............................. 1·25 CONVERSION FACTORS ............... 1-25 METRIC BOLTS .............................. 1-26 SAE BOLTS ..................................... 1-26 TOOLS ................................................ 1·17 ELECTRONIC TOOLS .................... 1-21 HAND TOOLS ................................. 1-17 MEASURING TOOLS ...................... 1-22 OTHER COMMON TOOLS ............. 1-20 SPECIAL TOOLS .. ...................... .... 1-21 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT ................ 1-15 CHEMICALS .................................... 1-15 SAFETY TOOLS ........................ ...... 1-15 TROUBLESHOOTING ....................... 1·11 BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES ............. 1-12

© 2006 PDF Manual Master 1-2 GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL This manual is designed to be a handy reference guide to maintaining and repairing your Volvo/Penta engine and drive system. We strongly believe that regardless of how many or how few year's experience you may have, there is something new waiting here for you. This manual covers the topics that a factory service manual (designed for factory trained mechanics) and a manufacturer owner's manual (designed more by lawyers than boat owners these days) covers. It will take you through the basics of maintaining and repairing your engine/drive system, step-by-step, to help you understand what the factory trained mechanics already know by heart. By using the information in this manual, any boat owner should be able to make better informed decisions about what they need to do to maintain and enjoy their Volvo. Even if you never plan on touching a wrench (and if so, we hope that we can change your mind), this manual will still help you understand what a mechanic needs to do in order to maintain your engine. Can You Do It? If you are not the type who is prone to taking a wrench to something, NEVER FEAR. The procedures provided here cover topics at a level virtually anyone will be able to handle. And just the fact that you purchased this manual shows your interest in better understanding your Volvo/Penta. You may find that maintaining your engine/drive system yourself is preferable in most cases. From a monetary standpoint, it could also be beneficial. The money spent on hauling your boat to a marina and paying a tech to service the engine could buy you fuel for a whole weekend's boating. If you are unsure of your own mechanical abilities, at the very least you should fully understand what a marine mechanic does to your boat. You may decide that anything other than maintenance and adjustments should be performed by a mechanic (and that's your call), but know that every time you board your boat, you are placing faith in the mechanic's work and trusting him or her with your well-being, and maybe your life. It should also be noted that in most areas a factory-trained mechanic will command a hefty hourly rate for off site service. This hourly rate is often charged from the time they leave their shop to the time that they return home. The cost savings in dOing the job yourself might be readily apparent at this point. Of course, if even you're already a seasoned Do-It-Yourselfer or a Professional Technician, you'll find the procedures, specifications, special tips as well as the schematics and illustrations helpful when tackling a new job on an engine. • To help you decide if a task is within your skill level, procedures will often be rated using a wrench symbol in the text. When present, the number of wrenches designates how difficult we feel the procedure to be on a 1-4 scale. For more details on the wrench icon rating system, please refer to the information under Skill Levels at the beginning of this manual. Where to Begin Before spending any money on parts, and before removing any nuts or bolts, read through the entire procedure or topic. This will give you the overall view of what tools and supplies will be required to perform the procedure or what questions need to be answered before purchasing parts. So read ahead and plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures thoroughly understood before attempting any work. Avoiding Trouble Some procedures in this manual may require you to "label and disconnect ... " a group of lines, hoses or wires. Don't be lulled into thinking you can remember where everything goes - you won't. If you reconnect or install a part incorrectly, the engine may operate poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you may instantly learn a very expensive lesson. A piece of masking tape, for example, placed on a hose and another on its fitting will allow you to assign your own label such as the letter "A", or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, you can reconnect the lines by matching letters or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve when saturated in some fluids (especially cleaning sOlvents). If a component is to be washed or cleaned, use another method of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker can be very handy for marking metal parts; but remember that some solvents will remove permanent marker. A scribe can be used to carefully etch a small mark in some metal parts, but be sure NOT to do that on a gasket-making surface. SAFETY is the most important thing to remember when performing maintenance or repairs. Be sure to read the information on safety in this manual. Maintenance or Repair? Proper maintenance is the key to long and trouble-free engine life, and the work can yield its own rewards. A properly maintained engine performs better than one that is neglected. As a conscientious boat owner, set aside a Saturday morning, at least once a month, to perform a thorough check of items that could cause problems. Keep your own personal log to jot down which services you performed, how much the parts cost you, the date, and the amount of hours on the engine at the time. Keep all receipts for parts purchased, so that they may be referred to in case of related problems or to determine operating expenses. As a do-it-yourselfer, these receipts are the only proof you have that the required maintenance was performed. In the event of a warranty problem (on new engines), these receipts can be invaluable. It's necessary to mention the difference between maintenance and repair. Maintenance includes routine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of parts that show signs of normal wear. Maintenance compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies that something has broken or is not working. A need for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. For example: draining and refilling the gearcase oil is maintenance recommended by all manufacturers at specific intervals. Failure to do this can allow internal corrosion or damage and impair the operation of the engine, requiring expensive repairs. While no maintenance program can prevent items from breaking or wearing out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS CHEAPER THAN REPAIR. Directions and Locations • See Figure 1 Two basic rules should be mentioned here. First, whenever the Port side of the engine (or boat) is referred to, it is meant to specify the left side of the engine when you are sitting at the helm. Conversely, the Starboard means your right side. The Bow is the front of the boat and the Stern or Aft is the rear. -- AFT (REAR) Fig. 1 Common terminology used for reference designation on boats of all size. These terms are used though out the manual

© 2006 PDF Manual Master GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS 1-3 Most screws and bolts are removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. An easy way to remember this is: righty-tighty; lefty-Ioosey. Corny, but effective. And if you are really dense (and we have all been so at one time or another), buy a ratchet that is marked ON and OFF (like Snap-on® ratchets), or mark your own. This can be especially helpful when you are bent over backwards, upside down or otherwise turned around when working on a boat-mounted component. Professional Help Occasionally, there are some things when working on an engine or drive system that are beyond the capabilities or tools of the average Do-It- Yourselfer (DIYer). This shouldn't include most of the topics of this manual, but you will have to be the judge. Some engines require special tools or a selection of special parts, even for some basic maintenance tasks. Talk to other boaters who use the same model of engine and speak with a trusted marina to find if there is a particular system or component on your engine that is difficult to maintain. You will have to decide for yourself where basic maintenance ends and where professional service should begin. Take your time and do your research first (starting with the information in this manual) and then make your own decision. If you really don't feel comfortable with attempting a procedure, DON'T DO IT. If you've gotten into something that may be over your head, don't panic. Tuck your tail between your legs and call a marine mechanic. Marinas and independent shops will be able to finish a job for you. Your ego may be damaged, but your boat will be properly restored to its full running order. So, as long as you approach jobs slowly and carefully, you really have nothing to lose and everything to gain by doing it yourself. On the other hand, even the most complicated repair is within the ability of a person who takes their time and follows the steps of a procedure. A rock climber doesn't run up the side of a cliff, he/she takes it one step at a time and in the end, what looked difficult or impossible was conquerable. Worry about one step at a time. Purchasing Parts • See Figures 2 and 3 When purchasing parts there are two things to consider. The first is quality and the second is to be sure to get the correct part for your engine. To get quality parts, always deal directly with a reputable retailer. To get the proper parts always refer to the information tag on your engine prior to calling the parts counter. An incorrect part can adversely affect your engine performance and fuel economy, and will cost you more money and aggravation in the end. Just remember, a tow back to shore will cost plenty. That charge is per hour from the time the towboat leaves their home port, to the time they return to their home port. Get the picture ... $$$? Fig. 2 By far the most important asset in purchasing parts is a knowledgeable and enthusiastic parts person Fig. 3 Parts catalogs, giving application and part number information, are provided by manufacturers for most replacement parts So whom should you call for parts? Well, there are many sources for the parts you will need. Where you shop for parts will be determined by what kind of parts you need, how much you want to pay, and the types of stores in your neighborhood. Your marina can supply you with many of the common parts you require. Using a marina as your parts supplier may be handy because of location Oust walk right down the dock) or because the marina specializes in your particular brand of engine. In addition, it is always a good idea to get to know the marina staff (especially the marine mechanic). The marine parts jobber, who is usually listed in the yellow pages or whose name can be obtained from the marina, is another excellent source for parts. In addition to supplying local marinas, they also do a sizeable business in over-the-counter parts sales for the do-it-yourselfer. Almost every boating community has one or more convenient marine chain stores. These stores often offer the best retail prices and the convenience of one-stop shopping for all your needs. Since they cater to the do-it-yourselfer, these stores are almost always open weeknights, Saturdays, and Sundays, when the jobbers are usually closed. The lowest prices for parts are most often found in discount stores or the auto department of mass merchandisers. Parts sold here are name and private brand parts bought in huge quantities, so they can offer a competitive price. Private brand parts are made by major manufacturers and sold to large chains under a store label. And, of course, more and more large automotive parts retailers are stocking basic marine supplies. Avoiding the Most Common Mistakes There are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work: 1. Following the incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or adjustment. When taking something apart or putting it together, performing steps in the wrong order usually just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break something. Read the entire procedure before beginning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in which the instructions say you should, even if you can't immediately see a reason for it. When you're taking apart something that is very intricate, you might want to draw a picture of how it looks when assembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. When making adjustments, perform them in the proper order; often, one adjustment affects another, and you cannot expect satisfactory results unless each adjustment is made only when it cannot be changed by subsequent adjustments. • Digital cameras are handy. If you've got access to one, take pictures of intricate assemblies during the disassembly process and refer to them during assembly for tips on part orientation.

© 2006 PDF Manual Master 1-4 GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS 2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is more common for overtorquing to cause damage, undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose causing serious damage. Especially when dealing with plastic and aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifications and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a torque figure is not available, remember that if you are using the right tool to perform the job, you will probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight that the tension you put on the wrench will be multiplied many times in actual force on what you are tightening. 3. Cross-threading. This occurs when a part such as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong angle and forced. Cross-threading is more BOATING SAFETY In 1971 Congress ordered the U.S. Coast Guard to improve recreational boating safety. In response, the Coast Guard drew up a set of regulations. Aside from these federal regulations, there are state and local laws you must follow. These sometimes exceed the Coast Guard requirements. This section discusses only the federal laws. State and local laws are available from your local Coast Guard. As with other laws, "Ignorance of the boating laws is no excuse." The rules fall into two groups: regulations for your boat and required safety equipment on your boat. Regulations For Your Boat Most boats on waters within Federal jurisdiction must be registered or documented. These waters are those that provide a means of transportation between two or more states or to the sea. They also include the territorial waters of the United States. DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS A vessel of five or more net tons may be documented as a yacht. In this process, papers are issued by the U.S. Coast Guard as they are for large ships. Documentation is a form of national registration. The boat must be used solely for pleasure. Its owner must be a citizen of the U.S., a partnership of U.S. citizens, or a corporation controlled by U.S. citizens. The captain and other officers must also be U.S. citizens. The crew need not be. If you document your yacht, you have the legal authority to fly the yacht ensign. You also may record bills of sale, mortgages, and other papers of title with federal authorities. Doing so gives legal notice that such instruments exist. Documentation also permits preferred status for mortgages. This gives you additional security, and it aids in financing and transfer of title. You must carry the original documentation papers aboard your vessel. Copies will not suffice. REGISTRATION OF BOATS If your boat is not documented, registration in the state of its principal use is probably required. If you use it mainly on an ocean, a gulf, or other similar water, register it in the state where you moor it. If you use your boat solely for racing, it may be exempt from the require- ment in your state. Some states may also exclude dinghies, while others require registration of documented vessels and non-power driven boats. All states, except Alaska, register boats. In Alaska, the U.S. Coast Guard issues the registration numbers. If you move your vessel to a new state of principal use, a valid registration certificate is good for 60 days. You must have the registration certificate (certificate of number) aboard your vessel when it is in use. A copy will not suffice. You may be cited if you do not have the original on board. NUMBERING OF VESSELS A registration number is on your registration certificate. You must paint or permanently attach this number to both sides of the forward half of your boat. Do not display any other number there. The registration number must be clearly visible. It must not be placed on the obscured underside of a flared bow. If you can't place the number on the bow, place it on the forward half of the hull. If that doesn't work, put it on the superstructure. Put the number for an inflatable boat on a bracket or fixture. Then, firmly attach it to the forward half of the boat. The letters and numbers must be plain block characters and must read from left to right. Use a space or a hyphen to separate the prefix and suffix letters from the numerals. likely to occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubricate fasteners, then to start threading with the part to be installed positioned straight inward. Always start a fastener, etc. with your fingers. If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and start over again at a different angle until it can be inserted and turned several times without much effort. Keep in mind that some parts may have tapered threads, so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part you're threading to the proper angle, but only if you don't force it or resist a change in angle. Don't put a wrench on the part until it has been tightened a couple of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resistance, and the part has not seated fully, don't force it. Pull it back out to make sure it's clean and threading properly. The color of the characters must contrast with that of the background, and they must be at least three inches high. In some states your registration is good for only one year. In others, it is good for as long as three years. Renew your registration before it expires. At that time you will receive a new decal or decals. Place them as required by state law. You should remove old decals before putting on the new ones. Some states require that you show only the current decal or decals. If your vessel is moored, it must have a current decal even if it is not in use. If your vessel is lost, destroyed, abandoned, stolen, or transferred, you must inform the issuing authority. If you lose your certificate of number or your address changes, notify the issuing authority as soon as possible. SALES AND TRANSFERS Your registration number is not transferable to another boat. The number stays with the boat unless its state of principal use is changed. HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER A Hull Identification Number (HIN) is like the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on your car. Boats built between November 1, 1972 and July 31,1984 have old format HINs. Since August 1,1984 a new format has been used. Your boat's HIN must appear in two places. If it has a transom, the primary number is on its starboard side within two inches of its top. If it does not have a transom or if it was not practical to use the transom, the number is on the starboard side. In this case, it must be within one foot of the stern and within two inches of the top of the hull side. On pontoon boats, it is on the aft crossbeam within one foot of the starboard hull attachment. Your boat also has a duplicate number in an unexposed location. This is on the boat's interior or under a fitting or item of hardware. LENGTH OF BOATS For some purposes, boats are classed by length. Required equipment, for example, differs with boat size. Manufacturers may measure a boat's length in several ways. Officially, though, your boat is measured along a straight line from its bow to its stern. This line is parallel to its keel. The length does not include bowsprits, boomkins, or pulpits. Nor does it include rudders, brackets, outboard motors, outdrives, diving platforms, or other attachments. CAPACITY INFORMATION • See Figure 4 Manufacturers must put capacity plates on most recreational boats less than 20 feet long. Sailboats, canoes, kayaks, and inflatable boats are usually exempt. Outboard boats must display the maximum permitted horsepower of their engines. The plates must also show the allowable maximum weights of the people on board. And they must show the allowable maximum combined weights of people, engine(s), and gear. Inboards and stern drives need not show the weight of their engines on their capacity plates. The capacity plate must appear where it is clearly visible to the operator when underway. This information serves to remind you of the capacity of your boat under normal circumstances. You should ask yourself, "Is my boat loaded above its recommended capacity" and, "Is my boat overloaded for the present sea and wind conditions?" If you are stopped by a legal authority, you may be cited if you are overloaded.

© 2006 PDF Manual Master GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS 1-5 THIS BOAT COMPUES wnH U S. COAST GUARIl mUY smOA~~& iN Hfm ON THE DATE Of CERTifiCATION , " '. BAHAMA INDUSTRIES, INC. 5612 LA PALMA ST. ANAHEIM .. CAllI' 92807 Fig. 4 A U.S. Coast Guard certification plate indicates the amount of occupants and gear appropriate for safe operation of the vessel CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE • See Figure 4 Manufacturers are required to put compliance plates on motorboats greater than 20 feet in length. The plates must say, ''This boat," or ''This equipment complies with the U. S. Coast Guard Safety Standards in effect on the date of certification." Letters and numbers can be no less than one-eighth of an inch high. At the manufacturer's option, the capacity and compliance plates may be combined. VENTILATION A cup of gasoline spilled in the bilge has the potential explosive power of 15 sticks of dynamite. This statement, commonly quoted over 20 years ago, may be an exaggeration; however, it illustrates a fact. Gasoline fumes in the bilge of a boat are highly explosive and a serious danger. They are heavier than air and will stay in the bilge until they are vented out. Because of this danger, Coast Guard regulations require ventilation on many powerboats. There are several ways to supply fresh air to engine and gasoline tank compartments and to remove dangerous vapors. Whatever the choice, it must meet Coast Guard standards. • The following is not intended to be a complete discussion of the regulations. It is limited to the majority of recreational vessels. Contact your local Coast Guard office for further information. General Precautions Ventilation systems will not remove raw gasoline that leaks from tanks or fuel lines. If you smell gasoline fumes, you need immediate repairs. The best device for sensing gasoline fumes is your nose. Use it! If you smell gasoline in an engine compartment or elsewhere, don't start your engine. The smaller the compartment, the less gasoline it takes to make an explosive mixture. Ventilation for Open Boats In open boats, gasoline vapors are dispersed by the air that moves through them. So they are exempt from ventilation requirements. To be "open," a boat must meet certain conditions. Engine and fuel tank compartments and long narrow compartments that join them must be open to the atmosphere." This means they must have at least 15 square inches of open area for each cubic foot of net compartment volume. The open area must be in direct contact with the atmosphere. There must also be no long, unventilated spaces open to engine and fuel tank compartments into which flames could extend. Ventilation for All Other Boats Powered and natural ventilation are required in an enclosed compartment with a permanently installed gasoline engine that has a starter motor. A compartment is exempt if its engine is open to the atmosphere. Diesel powered boats are also exempt. VENTILATION SYSTEMS There are two types of ventilation systems. One is "natural ventilation." In it, air circulates through closed spaces due to the boat's motion. The other type is "powered ventilation." In it, air is circulated by a motor-driven fan or fans. Natural Ventilation System Requirements A natural ventilation system has an air supply from outside the boat. The air supply may also be from a ventilated compartment or a compartment open to the atmosphere. Intake openings are required. In addition, intake ducts may be required to direct the air to appropriate compartments. The system must also have an exhaust duct that starts in the lower third of the compartment. The exhaust opening must be into another ventilated compartment or into the atmosphere. Each supply opening and supply duct, if there is one, must be above the usual level of water in the bilge. Exhaust openings and ducts must also be above the bilge water. Openings and ducts must be at least three square inches in area or two inches in diameter. Openings should be placed so exhaust gasses do not enter the fresh air intake. Exhaust fumes must not enter cabins or other enclosed, non-ventilated spaces. The carbon monoxide gas in them is deadly. Intake and exhaust openings must be covered by cowls or similar devices. These registers keep out rain water and water from breaking seas. Most often, intake registers face forward and exhaust openings aft. This aids the flow of air when the boat is moving or at anchor since most boats face into the wind when properly anchored. Power Ventilation System Requirements • See Figure a Powered ventilation systems must meet the standards of a natural system. They must also have one or more exhaust blowers. The blower duct can serve as the exhaust duct for natural ventilation if fan blades do not obstruct the air flow when not powered. Openings in engine compartment, for carburetion are in addition to ventilation system requirements. Fig. 5 Typical blower and duct system to vent fumes from the engine compartment Required Safety Equipment Coast Guard regulations require that your boat have certain equipment aboard. These requirements are minimums. Exceed them whenever you can. TYPES OF FIRES There are four common classes of fires: • Class A-fires are of ordinary combustible materials such as paper or wood. • Class B-fires involve gasoline, oil and grease. • Class C-fires are electrical. • Class D-fires involve ferrous metals

© 2006 PDF Manual Master 1-6 GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS One of the greatest risks to boaters is fire. This is why it is so important to carry the correct number and type of extinguishers onboard. The best fire extinguisher for most boats is a Class B extinguisher. Never use water on Class B or Class C fires, as water spreads these types of fires. Additionally, you should never use water on a Class C fire as it may cause you to be electrocuted. FIRE EXTINGUISHERS • See Figure 6 If your boat meets one or more of the following conditions, you must have at least one fire extinguisher aboard. The conditions are: • Inboard or stern drive engines • Closed compartments under seats where portable fuel tanks can be stored • Double bottoms not sealed together or not completely filled with flotation materials • Closed living spaces • Closed stowage compartments in which combustible or flammable materials are stored • Permanently installed fuel tanks • Boat is 26 feet or more in length. Fig. 6 An approved fire extinguisher should be mounted close to the operator for emergency use Contents of Extinguishers Fire extinguishers use a variety of materials. Those used on boats usually contain dry chemicals, Halon, or Carbon Dioxide (C02). Dry chemical extinguishers contain chemical powders such as Sodium Bicarbonate-baking soda. Carbon dioxide is a colorless and odorless gas when released from an extinguisher. It is not poisonous but caution must be used in entering compartments filled with it. It will not support life and keeps oxygen from reaching your lungs. A fire-killing concentration of Carbon Dioxide can be lethal. If you are in a compartment with a high concentration of C02, you will have no difficulty breathing. But the air does not contain enough oxygen to support life. Unconsciousness or death can result. Halon Extinguishers Some fire extinguishers and 'built-in' or 'fixed' automatic fire extinguishing systems contain a gas called Halon. Like carbon dioxide it is colorless and odorless and will not support life. Some Halons may be toxic if inhaled. To be accepted by the Coast Guard, a fixed Halon system must have an indicator light at the vessel's helm. A green light shows the system is ready. Red means it is being discharged or has been discharged. Warning horns are available to let you know the system has been activated. If your fixed Halon system discharges, ventilate the space thoroughly before you enter it. There are no residues from Halon but it will not support life. Although Halon has excellent fire fighting properties; it is thought to deplete the earth's ozone layer and has not been manufactured since January 1, 1994. Halon extinguishers can be refilled from existing stocks of the gas until they are used up, but high federal excise taxes are being charged for the service. If you discontinue using your Halon extinguisher, take it to a recovery station rather than releasing the gas into the atmosphere. Compounds such as FE 241, designed to replace Halon, are now available. Fire Extinguisher Approval Fire extinguishers must be Coast Guard approved. Look for the approval number on the nameplate. Approved extinguishers have the following on their labels: "Marine Type USCG Approved, Size ... , Type ... , 162.208/," etc. In addition, to be acceptable by the Coast Guard, an extinguisher must be in serviceable condition and mounted in its bracket. An extinguisher not properly mounted in its bracket will not be considered serviceable during a Coast Guard inspection. Care and Treatment Make certain your extinguishers are in their stowage brackets and are not damaged. Replace cracked or broken hoses. Nozzles should be free of obstructions. Sometimes, wasps and other insects nest inside nozzles and make them inoperable. Check your extinguishers frequently. If they have pressure gauges, is the pressure within acceptable limits? Do the locking pins and sealing wires show they have not been used since recharging? Don't try an extinguisher to test it. Its valves will not reseat properly and the remaining gas will leak out. When this happens, the extinguisher is useless. Weigh and tag carbon dioxide and Halon extinguishers twice a year. If their weight loss exceeds 10 percent of the weight of the charge, recharge them. Check to see that they have not been used. They should have been inspected by a qualified person within the past six months, and they should have tags showing all inspection and service dates. The problem is that they can be partially discharged while appearing to be fully charged. Some Halon extinguishers have pressure gauges the same as dry chemical extinguishers. Don't rely too heavily on the gauge. The extinguisher can be partially discharged and still show a good gauge reading. Weighing a Halon extinguisher is the only accurate way to assess its contents. If your dry chemical extinguisher has a pressure indicator, check it frequently. Check the nozzle to see if there is powder in it. If there is, recharge it. Occasionally invert your dry chemical extinguisher and hit the base with the palm of your hand. The chemical in these extinguishers packs and cakes due to the boat's vibration and pounding. There is a difference of opinion about whether hitting the base helps, but it can't hurt. It is known that caking of the chemical powder is a major cause of failure of dry chemical extinguishers. Carry spares in excess of the minimum requirement. If you have guests aboard, make certain they know where the extinguishers are and how to use them. Using a Fire Extinguisher A fire extinguisher usually has a device to keep it from being discharged aCCidentally. This is a metal or plastic pin or loop. If you need to use your extinguisher, take it from its bracket. Remove the pin or the loop and point the nozzle at the base of the flames. Now, squeeze the handle, and discharge the extinguisher's contents while sweeping from side to side. Recharge a used extinguisher as soon as possible. If you are using a Halon or carbon dioxide extinguisher, keep your hands away from the discharge. The rapidly expanding gas will freeze them. If your fire extinguisher has a horn, hold it by its handle. Legal Requirements for Extinguishers You must carry fire extinguishers as defined by Coast Guard regulations. They must be firmly mounted in their brackets and immediately accessible. A motorboat less than 26 feet long must have at least one approved hand-portable, Type B-1 extinguisher.

© 2006 PDF Manual Master GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS 1-7 If the boat has an approved fixed fire extinguishing system, you are not required to have the Type B-1 extinguisher. Also, if your boat is less than 26 feet long, is propelled by an outboard motor, or motors, and does not have any of the first six conditions described at the beginning of this section, it is not required to have an extinguisher. Even so, it's a good idea to have one, especially if a nearby boat catches fire, or if a fire occurs at a fuel dock. A motorboat 26 feet to under 40 feet long, must have at least two Type B-1 approved hand-portable extinguishers. It can, instead, have at least one Coast Guard approved Type B-2. If you have an approved fire extinguishing system, only one Type B-1 is required. A motorboat 40 to 65 feet long must have at least three Type B-1 approved portable extinguishers. It may have, instead, at least one Type B-1 plus a Type B-2. If there is an approved fixed fire extinguishing system, two Type B-1 or one Type B-2 is required. WARNING SYSTEM Various devices are available to alert you to danger. These include fire, smoke, gasoline fumes, and carbon monoxide detectors. If your boat has a galley, it should have a smoke detector. Where possible, use wired detectors. Household batteries often corrode rapidly on a boat. There are many ways in which carbon monoxide (a by-product of the combustion that occurs in an engine) can enter your boat. You can't see, smell, or taste carbon monoxide gas, but it is lethal. As little as one part in 10,000 parts of air can bring on a headache. The symptoms of carbon monoxide pOisoning-headaches, dizziness, and nausea-are like seasickness. By the time you realize what is happening to you, it may be too late to take action. If you have enclosed living spaces on your boat, protect yourself with a detector. PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs) are commonly called life preservers or life jackets. You can get them in a variety of types and sizes. They vary with their intended uses. To be acceptable, PFDs must be Coast Guard approved. Type I PFDs A Type I life jacket is also called an offshore life jacket. Type I life jackets will turn most unconscious people from facedown to a vertical or slightly backward position. The adult size gives a minimum of 22 pounds of buoyancy. The child size has at least 11 pounds. Type I jackets provide more protection to their wearers than any other type of life jacket. Type I life jackets are bulkier and less comfortable than other types. Furthermore, there are only two sizes, one for children and one for adults. Type I life jackets will keep their wearers afloat for extended periods in rough water. They are recommended for offshore cruising where a delayed rescue is probable. Type II PFDs • See Figure 7 A Type II life jacket is also called a near-shore buoyant vest. It is an approved, wearable device. Type II life jackets will turn some unconscious people from facedown to vertical or slightly backward positions. The adult size gives at least 15.5 pounds of buoyancy. The medium child size has a minimum of 11 pounds. And the small child and infant sizes give seven pounds. A Type II life jacket is more comfortable than a Type I but it does not have as much buoyancy. It is not recommended for long hours in rough water. Because of this, Type lis are recommended for inshore and inland cruising on calm water. Use them only where there is a good chance of fast rescue. Type III PFDs Type III life jackets or marine buoyant devices are also known as flotation aids. Like Type lis, they are designed for calm inland or close offshore water where there is a good chance of fast rescue. Their minimum buoyancy is 15.5 pounds. They will not turn their wearers face up. Type III devices are usually worn where freedom of movement is necessary. Thus, they are used for water skiing, small boat sailing, and fishing among other activities. They are available as vests and flotation coats. Flotation coats are useful in cold weather. Type Ills come in many sizes from small child through large adult. Life jackets come in a variety of colors and patterns-red, blue, green, camouflage, and cartoon characters. From purely a safety standpoint, the best color is bright orange. It is easier to see in the water, especially if the water is rough. Type IV PFDs • See Figures 8 and 9 Type IV ring life buoys, buoyant cushions and horseshoe buoys are Coast Guard approved devices called throwables. They are made to be thrown to people in the water, and should not be worn. Type IV cushions are often used as seat cushions. But, keep in mind that cushions are hard to hold onto in the water, thus, they do not afford as much protection as wearable life jackets. The straps on buoyant cushions are for you to hold onto either in the water or when throwing them, they are NOT for your arms. A cushion should never be worn on your back, as it will turn you face down in the water. Type IV throwables are not designed as personal flotation devices for unconscious people, non-swimmers, or children. Use them only in emergencies. They should not be used for, long periods in rough water. Ring life buoys come in 18, 20, 24, and 30 inch diameter sizes. They usually have grab lines, but you will need to attach about 60 feet of polypropylene line to the grab rope to aid in retrieving someone in the water. If you throw a ring, be careful not to hit the person. Ring buoys can knock people unconscious Type V PFDs Type V PFDs are of two kinds, special use devices and hybrids. Special use devices include boardsailing vests, deck suits, work vests, and others. They are approved only for the special uses or conditions indicated on their labels. Each is designed and intended for the particular application shown on its label. They do not meet legal requirements for general use aboard recreational boats. Hybrid life jackets are inflatable devices with some built-in buoyancy provided by plastic foam or kapok. They can be inflated orally or by cylinders of compressed gas to give additional buoyancy. In some hybrids the gas is released manually. In others it is released automatically when the life jacket is immersed in water. The inherent buoyancy of a hybrid may be insufficient to float a person unless it is inflated. The only way to find this out is for the user to try it in the water. Because of its limited buoyancy when deflated, a hybrid is recommended for use by a non-swimmer only if it is worn with enough infla- tion to float the wearer. If they are to count against the legal requirement for the number of life jackets you must carry, hybrids manufactured before February 8, 1995 must be worn whenever a boat is underway and the wearer must not go below decks or in an enclosed space. To find out if your Type V hybrid must be worn to satisfy the legal requirement, read its label. If its use is restricted it will say, "REQUIRED TO BE WORN" in capital letters. Hybrids cost more than other life jackets, but this factor must be weighed against the fact that they are more comfortable than Types I, II or III life jackets. Because of their greater comfort, their owners are more likely to wear them than are the owners of Type I, II or III life jackets. The Coast Guard has determined that improved, less costly hybrids can save lives since they will be bought and used more frequently. For these reasons, a new federal regulation was adopted effective February 8, 1995. The regulation increases both the deflated and inflated buoyancys of hybrids, makes them available in a greater variety of sizes and types, and reduces their costs by reducing production costs. Even though it may not be required, the wearing of a hybrid or a life jack- et is encouraged whenever a vessel is underway. Like life jackets, hybrids are now available in three types. To meet legal requirements, a Type I hybrid can be substituted for a Type I life jacket. Similarly Type II and III hybrids can be substituted for Type II and Type III life jackets. A Type I hybrid, when inflated, will turn most unconscious people from facedown to vertical or slightly backward positions just like a Type I life jacket. Type II and III hybrids function like Type II and III life jackets. If you purchase a new hybrid, it should have an owner's manual attached that describes its life jacket type and its deflated and inflated buoyancys. It warns you that it may have to be inflated to float you. The manual also tells you how to don the life jacket and how to inflate it. It also tells you how to change its inflation mechanism, recommended testing exercises, and inspection or maintenance procedures.

© 2006 PDF Manual Master 1-8 GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS Fig. 7 Type II PFDs are recommended for inshore and inland cruising on calm water (where there is a good chance of fast rescue) Fig. 8 Type IV buoyant cushions are thrown to people in the water. If you can squeeze air out of the cushion, it should be replaced Fig. 9 Type IV throwables, such as this ring life buoy, are not designed for unconscious people, non-swimmers, or children The manual also tells you why you need a life jacket and why you should wear it. A new hybrid must be packaged with at least three gas car- tridges. One of these may already be loaded into the inflation mechanism. Likewise, if it has an automatic inflation mechanism, it must be packaged with at least three of these water sensitive elements. One of these elements may be installed. Legal Requirements A Coast Guard approved life jacket must show the manufacturer's name and approval number. Most are marked as Type I, II, III, IV or V. All of the newer hybrids are marked for type. You are required to carry at least one wearable life jacket or hybrid for each person on board your recreational vessel. If your vessel is 16 feet or more in length and is not a canoe or a kayak, you must also have at least one Type IV on board. These requirements apply to all recreational vessels that are propelled or controlled by machinery, sails, oars, paddles, poles, or another vessel. Sailboards are not required to carry life jackets. You can SUbstitute an older Type V hybrid for any required Type I, II or III life jacket provided: 1. Its approval label shows it is approved for the activity the vessel is engaged in 2. It's approved as a substitute for a life jacket of the type required on the vessel 3. It's used as required on the labels and 4. It's used in accordance with any requirements in its owner's manual (if the approval label makes reference to such a manuaL) A water skier being towed is considered to be on board the vessel when judging compliance with legal requirements. You are required to keep your Type I, II or III life jackets or equivalent hybrids readily accessible, which means you must be able to reach out and get them when needed. All life jackets must be in good, serviceable condition. General Considerations The proper use of a life jacket requires the wearer to know how it will perform. You can gain this knowledge only through experience. Each person on your boat should be assigned a life jacket. Next, it should be fitted to the person who will wear it. Only then can you be sure that it will be ready for use in an emergency. This advice is good even if the water is calm, and you intend to boat near shore. Boats can sink fast. There may be no time to look around for a life jacket. Fitting one on you in the water is almost impossible. Most drownings occur in inland waters within a few feet of safety. Most victims had life jackets, but they weren't wearing them. Keeping life jackets in the plastic covers they came wrapped in, and in a cabin, assures that they will stay clean and unfaded. But this is no way to keep them when you are on the water. When you need a life jacket it must be readily accessible and adjusted to fit you. You can't spend time hunting for it or learning how to fit it. There is no substitute for the experience of entering the water while wearing a life jacket. Children, especially, need practice. If possible, give your guests this experience. Tell them they should keep their arms to their sides when jumping in to keep the life jacket from riding up. Let them jump in and see how the life jacket responds. Is it adjusted so it does not ride up? Is it the proper size? Are all straps snug? Are children's life jackets the right sizes for them? Are they adjusted properly? If a child's life jacket fits correctly, you can lift the child by the jacket's shoulder straps and the child's chin and ears will not slip through. Non-swimmers, children, handicapped persons, elderly persons and even pets should always wear life jackets when they are aboard. Many states require that everyone aboard wear them in hazardous waters. Inspect your lifesaving equipment from time to time. Leave any questionable or unsatisfactory equipment on shore. An emergency is no time for you to conduct an inspection. Indelibly mark your life jackets with your vessel's name, number, and calling port. This can be important in a search and rescue effort. It could help concentrate effort where it will do the most good. Care of Life Jackets Given reasonable care, life jackets last many years. Thoroughly dry them before putting them away. Stow them in dry, well-ventilated places. Avoid the bottoms of lockers and deck storage boxes where moisture may collect. Air and dry them frequently. Life jackets should not be tossed about or used as fenders or cushions. Many contain kapok or fibrous glass material enclosed in plastiC bags. The bags can rupture and are then unserviceable. Squeeze your life jacket gently. Does air leak out? If so, water can leak in and it will no longer be safe to use. Cut it up so no one will use it, and throw it away. The covers of some life jackets are made of nylon or polyester. These materials are plastics. Like many plastics, they break down after extended exposure to the ultraviolet light in sunlight. This process may be more rapid when the materials are dyed with bright dyes such as "neon" shades. Ripped and badly faded fabrics are clues that the covering of your life jacket is deteriorating. A simple test is to pinch the fabric between your thumbs and forefingers. Now try to tear the fabric. If it can be torn, it should definitely be destroyed and discarded. Compare the colors in protected places to those exposed to the sun. If the colors have faded, the materials have been weakened. A life jacket covered in fabric should ordinarily last several boating seasons with normal use. A life jacket used every day in direct sunlight should probably be replaced more often. SOUND PRODUCING DEVICES All boats are required to carry some means of making an efficient sound signal. Devices for making the whistle or horn noises required by the . Navigation Rules must be capable of a four-second blast. The blast should be audible for at least one-half mile. Athletic whistles are not acceptable on boats 12 meters or longer. Use caution with athletic whistles. When wet, some of them come apart and loose their "pea." When this happens, they are useless. If your vessel is 12 meters long and less than 20 meters, you must have a power whistle (or power horn) and a bell on board. The bell must be in operating condition and have a minimum diameter of at least 200mm (7.9 in.) at its mouth.