1990-1994 VW POLO Service Repair Manual

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR VW POLO Introduction Page 0.4 Safety first! Page 0.5 Roadside repairs Introduction Page 0.6 If your car won’t start Page 0.6 Jump starting Page 0.7 Wheel changing Identifying leaks Towing Page 0.8 Page 0.9 Page 0.9 Weekly checks Introduction Page 0.10 Underbonnet check points Engine oil level Page 0.10 Page 0.11 Coolant level Page 0.11 Brake fluid level Page 0.12 Screen washer fluid level Page 0.12 Wiper blades Battery Tyre condition and pressure Bulbs and fuses Page 0.13 Page 0.13 Page 0.14 Page 0.15 Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures Page 0.16 MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Page 1.1 Maintenance schedule Page 1.3 Maintenance procedures Page 1.5

Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems Petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A.1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Fuel/exhaust systems - single-point petrol injection models Fuel/exhaust systems - multi-point petrol injection models Page 2B.1 Page 3.1 Page 4A.1 Page 4B.1 Exhaust and emission control systems Page 4C.1 Engine electrical - starting and charging systems Engine electrical - Ignition system Page 5A.1 Page 5B.1 Transmission Clutch Page 6.1 Manual transmission Page 7.1 Driveshafts Page 8.1 Brakes and suspension Braking system Page 9.1 Suspension and steering Page 10.1 Body equipment Bodywork and fittings Body electrical systems Page 11.1 Page 12.1 Wiring diagrams Page 12.12 REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Page REF.1 Conversion factors Page REF.2 Buying spare parts and vehicle identification General repair procedures Jacking and vehicle support MOT test checks Page REF.3 Page REF.4 Page REF.5 Page REF.5 Fault finding Glossary of technical terms Page REF.12 Page REF.19 Index Page REF.24

0.4 Introduction The updated VW Polo range was introduced in November of A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within 1990, with a choice of 1.05 litre (1043 cc) or 1.3 litre (1272 cc) petrol the Polo range to suit most tastes, including a sliding sunroof, tinted engines, with either single-point or multi-point fuel injection. During glass, alloy wheels and remote adjustable door mirrors. Spring 1991, the G40 model was launched, equipped with a Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the supercharged version of the 1.3 litre engine. Three body shells are manufacturer’s recommendations, the VW Polo should prove reliable available - a three-door hatchback, a two-door saloon and a three- and very economical. The engine compartment is well-designed, and door Coupe. most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible. All engines are derived from the well-proven units which have appeared in previous versions of the VW Polo. The engine is of four- cylinder overhead camshaft design, mounted transversely, with the transmission mounted on the left-hand side. All models have a four or five-speed manual transmission. Your Polo manual All models have fully-independent front suspension and employ coil- over-damper struts, transverse lower arms and an anti-roll bar. The rear suspension is semi-independent, utilising coil-over-damper struts and incorporating trailing arms located by a torsion beam axle. A rear anti-roll bar is fitted to certain models. The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even if you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The WV Polo Team Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included: Authors Sub-editor Editor & Page Make-up Andy Legg Spencer Drayton Carole Turk Bob Jex Pete Shoemark Workshop manager Photo Scans Paul Buckland John Martin Paul Tanswell Steve Tanswell Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing Wiring diagrams Matthew Marke W e hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s reliability and preserve its resale value. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. This manual is not a direct reproduction of the vehicle manufacturer’s data, and its publication should not be taken as implying any technical approval by the vehicle manufacturers or importers. Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plugs, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Special thanks to Loders of Yeovil who provided several of the project vehicles used in the origination of this manual. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford and Newbury Park who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. VW Polo Boulevard WV Polo GT Coupe

Safety first! 0.5 W orking on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards l Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Scalding l Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. . Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Fume or gas intoxication l Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is Burning l Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. l Fuel vapour is also Crushing poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. l When working under or near a raised vehicle, Poisonous or irritant substances l Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. l Take care if loosening or tightening high- torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. l Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil- soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. l Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Fire Asbestos l Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. l Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. l Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). . Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. l Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. l Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. l Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. Electric shock l Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on. Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid l This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. l When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery l Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. l The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads. Air bags l Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply. Diesel injection equipment l Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. A ! Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potential/y fatal results.

0.6 Roadside repairs The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. If your car won’t start If your car won’t start and the starter motor even though the starter doesn’t turn motor turns as normal 0 Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals 0 Is there fuel in the tank? are clean and tight. 0 Is there moisture on electrical components under the 0 Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system (see next page) using a friend’s car. electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and H-T leads. A Check that the spark plug HT leads are B Check that the distributor hall sender securely connected by pushing them connector is firmly pushed home and down onto the plug tops C At the ignition coil, check that the LT and HT cable connections are secure and free of moisture With the ignition switched off, check that electrical connections are secure and spray them with a water dispersant spray, such as WD40, if you suspect that moisture may be causing a problem. E Check that the airflow meter harness connector is secure and free of moisture

Roadside repairs 0.7 When jump-starting a car using a 3 Make sure that the booster battery is booster battery, observe the following the same voltage as the discharged precautions: one in the vehicle. 1 Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. 4 If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. 2 Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off. 5/ Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission). Jump starting

0.8 Roadside repairs Wheel changing Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles. Preparation 0 When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. 0 Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. q Use hazard warning lights if necessary. Changing the wheel A Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by ! other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway.Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. 0l If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. 0 Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission. 0 Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this. 0 If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack. 1 The spare wheel and tools are stored in the luggage compartment. Unscrew the wing nut and lift out the spare wheel 2 The jack is located beneath the spare wheel. The wheel brace is on the right- hand side of the luggage compartment 3 Remove the wheel trim . . . 4 . . . then slacken each wheel bolt by a half turn 5 Locate the jack below the reinforced point on the sill (don’t jack the vehicle at any other point of the sill) and on firm ground then turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground 6 Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare wheel, and screw in the bolts. Lightly tighten the bolts with the brace, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 7 Securely tighten the wheel bolts in the sequence shown, Refit the wheel trim, and stow the punctured wheel and tools. 8 The wheel bolts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest possible opportunity Finally... 0 Remove the wheel chocks. 0 Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. 0 Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. 0 Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Roadside repairs 0.9 Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. Sump oil Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... Antifreeze Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: q Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. q Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. 0 Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. 0 Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. 0 Note that greater-than-usual pedal A Warning: Most automotive oils ! and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay. . ..or from the base of the oil filter. Brake fluid A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid. pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. 0 On models with power steering, greater- than-usual steering effort will also be required. 0 The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. 0 Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. q Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. q The front towing eye is supplied as part 01 the tool kit stored in the luggage compartment. To fit the eye, carefully prise out the removable panel from the front bumper. Securely screw the eye into position, Identifying leaks Gearbox oil Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. Power steering fluid Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack. Towing (noting that on some models it may have a left-handed thread) and tighten using the wheelbrace handle (see illustration). The front towing eye is supplied as part of the vehicle tool kit and must be screwed into position

0.10 Weekly checks Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. These “Weekly checks” require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example; q Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. 0 Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these. Underbonnet check points q If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. 0 If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example. 1 1.3 litre model A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Brake fluid reservoir E Screen washer fluid reservoir F Battery

1990-1994 VW POLO Service Repair Manual

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