VW VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 1300 Workshop Service Repair Manual

Beetle & Automotive Repair Manua by Ken Freund, Mike Stubblefield, and John H Haynes Mernbr of the Guild of Mobnng Wrrters Models covered: All VW Beetles and Karmann Ghias Does not include diesel engrne information Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vahicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides Infor- mation and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repalr procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arrang- Ing an appointment to get the vehicle Into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick It up. More Importantly, a lot of money can be! saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover rts labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself. Using the manual The manual Is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter Is dMded Into numbered Sec- tions, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Sect~on consists of consecutrvely numbered paragraphs. At the b%glnnmg of each numbered Sec- tion you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Sec- tion. The reference numbers used In illustra- tlon captlons pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Sectfon. That is, Illustretton 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Shp (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures. once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it's necessary to refer to anothw Chaptw, the m c e will be given as Chapter and Section numbr. Cross references glven without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections andror paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8" means in the same Chapter. References to the left or r~ght side of the vehjcle assume you are sitting In the driver's seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care. neither the pub- lisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors In, ox omiss~ons from, the ~nfor- mation glven. NOTE A Nata provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which w~ll make the procedure easier to understand. CAUTION A Cautfon provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while complet~ng the procedure where the Cautlon is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on. WARNING A Warning provides a special pwedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning 1s found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury. Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and cooperation of Volkswagen of Amer~ca, Inc., for asslstance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos. 0 Haynes North America, Ine. 1991,1998 Wtfh mlsslon from J.H. Haynes & Co. ttd. A book in the Haynes Automotivh Repair Manual Series P~*inted In the U.S.A. All rights resewed. No part af this book may be reproduced or transmitted In any form or by any means, electronic or rnechanrcal, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission In writ- ing from the mpyright holder. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 81 -70148 Whlle every attempt rs made to ensure that the Informd~on In this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors m, or omissions from, the information given. 98-320

Contents Introductory pages About thls manual lntrod~ct~on 10 the VW Beetle and Karmann Ghia Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and worklng facilities Jacking and towing Booster battery (lump) starting Automottve chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Safety first? Troubleshooting Chapter i Tune-up and rnuttne maintenance Chapter 2 Engrne 2-1 Chapter 3 Cooling and heating systems 3-1 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems Chapter 5 Engine electr~cal systems Chapter 6 Em~ssions control systems 161 Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle 74-1 Chapter 7 Part El Automatic Stick Shift Chapter 8 Clutch and drivellne Chapter 9 Brakes Chapter i Q Suspension and steering systems 10-1 lo Chapter 11 Body 11-1 Chapter f 2 Chassis electrical system and wlrlng diagrams Wiring diagrams 12-1 8 Index rNB1 lFAD

! - -- A 2 1974 VW Super Beetle

Introduction to the Volkswagen Beetle and Karmann Ghia )e rear susl ?ssed mer The vehicles covered by thrs manual are axle-tyg penslon, in which the axles wlth the steering gearbox mounted to the very sim~lar tn design. Although the Kamann are strt nbers of the suspension. front axle beam. Later models were equipped Ghia may appear to be a completely different Later models use dtiveaxles, which are used with a rack-and-pinion style steering gear. vehicle, it shares the same basic platform only for the transmission of power to the rear The rear suspension on a$ models is of and components. wheels. a torsion bar des~gn, although there are sig- The horizontally opposed, four-cyl~nder Independent suspenston, featuring tor- nlficant differences between models with engine used in these models is equipped with sion bars, trailing arms, and telescopic shock swing axles and modeis with driveaxles (see either a carburetor or electronic fuel ~nlection. absorbers in used on the front wheels of most Chapter 8 for more details). Telescopic shock All models util~ze a breaker points-type igni- models. Beginning with the 1971 Super Bee- absorbers are also used at the rear. tion system. tle, some models were equipped w12h a All models are equipped wtth drum brakes on The engine drtves the rear wheels MacPherson strut-type front suspension (all all four wheels, w~th the exception of later through a 4-speed manual or 3-speed 1975 and later models were equrpped wlth model Karmann Gbias, which were equipped semi-automatic transaxle vla independent this type of front suspension). Most models with disc brakes on the front wheels. axles. Early models employ a swlng use a worm-and-roller type steering gear, Vehicle identification numbers Mod~ficat~ons are a continuing and compiled on a numerical basis, the Endrvidual Chassis jdenfjfjation number unpublicrzed process In vehicle manufactur- veh~cla numbers are necessary to correctly ing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are identify the component requ~red. Th~s very important Identification number is found in three different places: on the The engine idenWicatlon number is stamped on the engim case, just below the generator pedestal frame tunnel under the rear seat, under the hood. and on the dashboard. It IS visible from outsida the vehicle, through the windshietd. The VIM also appears on the Yehide Certifi- cate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured. the model year and the body style. Engine number The engine identification number is stamped on the engine case, just below the generator pedestal (see illustration). See Chaptw 2 for a breakdown of engine identification numbers for the drlferent model years.

0-6 Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generalry fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our adv~ce concerning these pans is as follows: Retall auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. these stores often supply new or rscondit~oned parts an an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy rnateriaTs and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as 011, grease, fll- ters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have conven~ent hours. charge lower prtces and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere [such as major engine parts, transm~ssron parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty Infomatloon: If the veh~cle is st111 covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not lnvalldate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have englne and chassis numbers avatlable and, if possible, take the otd parts along for positlve ~dentificat~on. Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved In maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout thls manual. Appli- cation of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more effictent, better organized and capable of performing the varlous tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete. Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep I ~ I m~nd when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, wlth undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the hablt of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts w~th new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or flber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose thelr locktng abltity and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated this task, as well as other repair procedures, be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any such as the repalr af threaded holes that damaged washers w~th new ones. Never use have been strip@ out. a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such Flat washers and lockwashers, when as alurn~num), thin sheet metal or plastic. removed from an assembly, should always Grade 1 or 2 Grade 5 Grade 8 Grade ldenttfication I Grade Identification I with a penetrating flutd to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use tur- FA",% pent~ne in a spout-type oil can, which works $2 quits well. After apply~ng the rust penetrant. 3 Dots let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or blt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or +fij removed with a special nut breaker, available Grede B at tool stores. II a bolt or stud breaks off In an assem- 6 aot~ bly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. andard hex nut strength marklngn Most autornot~ve machine shops can perform 2s Class 9 GI Anhlc 9 Metfie hex nut atrength markings Class Class Class 10.9 9.8 8.8 Metric stud strength markings

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Fastener sires For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference 'between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, slnce they cannot be Inter- changed. kll bolts, whether standard or metric, are sired accord~ng to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example. a standard 112 - 13 x 1 bott Is 1/2 inch In diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An MI2 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in dtameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 rnm long. Thatwo bolts are nearly identical, and easily contused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread p~tch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To beg~n with, the d~stance across the fiats on a standard bolt head is measured In inches, whlle the same d~mension on a metric belt 1s wed in millime- ters [the same is true for nuts). As a result. a standard wrench should not be used an a metrtc bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the h l t , which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be apphed to It. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades D through 5 are commonly used on autorno- biles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indtcate bolt strength. In this case. the higher the number,the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.B and 1O.g are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, whlle rnetnc nuts are mark& with a number. The greater the nurn- ber of dots. or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends accordlng to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geo- metric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no dis- tinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether tl is standard or metric Is to measure the thread p~tch or compare it to a known fastener of the Same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-rnetrlc fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different Metric thread sizes M-6 ...................................... .. ..................... M-8 ............................................................... M-10 ............................................................. Pipe thread sizes U.S. thread sizes 1 /4 - 20 ........................................................ 5/16 - 18 ................................................... 511 6 - 24 ....................................................... 318 - 16 ......................................................... 318 - 24 ......................................................... 7/16 - 14 ....................................................... 7/76 - 20 ..................................................... 1rZ - 13 ......................................................... Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimens~onslgrade marks G Grade marks (bolt strength) L Length (in inches) T Thread pitch (number of thm~ds per Inch} D Nomtnal diameter (in Inches) Metric bolt dimensionstgrade marks P Property class (bolt strength) C Length (in rni//rmete~) T Mad pitch (distance between threads in miilimefers) D Diameter strength ratings, be sure to relnstalt any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original. Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the hvistrng force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted In the Specifications at the beglnnlng of each Chapter. Be sure to folilow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assrgned a specrfic torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the s~zs and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applred to rt. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts. differentla1 cover bolts, etc.. must be loosend or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the com-

0-8 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Micrometer set Dial indicator set ponent. This sequence will normally be shown In the appropriate Chapter. If a spe- crflc pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warplng. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tlght only. Next, they should be trghtened one full turn each, in a crlss-cross or d~agonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time unt~l each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed. Component disassembly Component d~sassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. tt is a good idea to fay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal, When removing fasteners from a component, keep track nf therr locations. Some- times threadlng a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud. can prevent mlx-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to thelr original locat~ons, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muf- fin tln is Ideal for this purpose, slnce each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a par- ticular area (4.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type rs especially helpful when working on assemblies with very srnali parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interlor dash and trim pieces. The cavltles can be marked with paint or tape to Identify the contents. Whenever wir~ng looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, ~t is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily recon- nected. Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vsh~cle, gaskets are used to seal the rnat~ng surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, flu~ds, vacuum or pressure contained tn an assembly. Many t~mes these gaskets are coated w~th a llquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to st~ck together so tightly that they are very dlfflcult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood IS placed ktween the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. W~th any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, whlch must remaln smooth. If prying is absolutely necsssavy, use an old broom handle, but keep In mlnd that extra clean up will be necessary if the w w d splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket sulfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften ~t so it can be eastly scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. copper is recommended because it is usuallv softer than the surfaces to be scraped: which reduces the chance of gnuglng the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush,. but regardless of the method used, the matlng surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applicatinns, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used. Hose removaF tips Warning: If the veh~cle rs equipped with air conditioning, do not drsconnect any of the AIC hoses w~thoui first hanng the system depressurired by a dealer serwtce department or a servrce statton. Hose removal precautt~ns closely paral- lel gasket removal precautions. Avord scratching or gouglng the surface that the hose mates against or the connect~on may leak. Thls is espec~ally true for radiator hoses. Because of varlous chemlcal reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond ~tself to the metal splgot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then. with slipjoint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate ~taround the spigot. Work ~t back and forth unt~l rt is completely free, then pull It off. Sill- cone or other lubr~cants w~ll ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubr~cant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the splgol to srrnpllfy lnstallatlon. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway). the rubber can be slit with a knlfe and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection IS not damaged. If a hose clamp is brok8n or damaged, do not reuse ~ t . Wire-type clamps usually weaken wlth age, so ~t IS a good ldea to replace them w~th screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to main- tain and repalr his or her own vehtcle. For the owner who has few tools, the inrtjal invest- ment might seem hrgh, but when compared to the sr$raling costs of profess~onal auto maintenance and repair. ~t 1s a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed rn this manual, the fallowing tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repaw, Repa!r/overhaul and Specral. The newcomer to practical rnechan~cs

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Dial caliper Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter Hand-operated vacuum pump Timtng light 3rlng wheel puller General purpose puller Hydraulic Imer removal tool Valve sprlng compressor Valve spring cornpressor Ridge reamer Piston ring groove cleaning took Ring removalfinstallatlon tool

VW VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 1300 Workshop Service Repair Manual

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