2005-2010 Opel Vauxhall Zafira Petrol Diesel Service & Repair Manual

Vauxhall/Opel Zafira Owners Workshop Manual Models covered Zatira·B MPV modOIS Petrol: 1.6 Utre (1598cc), 1.8 litre (1796cc) & 2.2 ll tre (2198cc) Turbo-diesel: 1.9 lltre (1910cc) Does NOT cove, 2.0 litre turbo petrol engine, 1.71/tre d/ese/ engine or dual fuel models

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR VAUXHALL/OPEL ZAFIRA Introduction to the Vauxhall/Opel Zafira Safety first! Roadside repairs If your car won't start Jump starting Wheel changing Using the puncture repair kit Identifyi ng leaks Towing Weekly checks Introduction Underbonnet check points Engine oil level Coolant level Tyre con dition and pressure Brake and clut ch fluid level Screen washer fluid level Wiper blades Battery El ec trical systems Lubricants and fluids Tyre pressures MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Petrol models Servicing specifications Maintenance schedule Maintenance procedures Diesel models Servici ng specifications Maintenance schedule Maintenance procedures Pa ge 0•4 Page 0•5 Page 0•6 Page 0•7 Page 0•8 Page 0•9 Page 0•10 Page 0•10 Page 0•11 Page 0•11 Page 0•13 Page 0•13 Page 0•14 Page 0•15 Page 0•15 Page 0•16 Page 0•16 Page 0•17 Page 0•18 Page 0•18 Page 1A•1 Page 1A• 2 Page 1A•3 Page 1A•6 Page 18•1 Page 18•2 Page 18•3 Page 18•5

REPAIRS AND OVERHAU Engine and associated systems 1.6 and 1.8 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures 1.9 litre SOHC diesel engine in-car repair procedures 1.9 litre DOHC diesel engine in-car repair procedures Engine removal and overhaul procedures Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Fuel and exhaust systems - petrol engines Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel engines Emissions control systems Starting and charging systems Ignition system - petrol engines Transmission Clutch transmission Automatic transmission Easytronic transmission Driveshafts Brakes and suspension Braking system Suspension and steering Body equipment Bodywork and fittings Body electrical system Wiring diagrams REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Fuel economy Buying spare parts Vehicle identification General repair procedures Jacking and vehicle support Disconnecting the battery Tools and working facilities MOT test checks Fault finding Glossary of technical terms Index ontents Page 2A•1 Page 28•1 Page 2C•1 Page 2D•1 Page 2E•1 Page 3•1 Page 4A•1 Page 48•1 Page 4C•1 Page 5A•1 Page 58•1 Page 6•1 Page 7A•1 Page 78•1 Page 7C•1 8•1 Page 9•1 Page 11•1 Page REF•1 REF•2 Page REF•6 Page REF•7 Page REF•7 Page REF•8 Page REF•9 Page REF•9 Page REF•10 Page REF•12 Page REF•16 REF•25 Page REF•29

o·4 Introduction The Vauxhall/Opel Zafira-8 model was introduced in the UK in the Spring of 2005 as a replacement for the previous Zafira, the 'A' model. The Zafira is available with only one body style, that of a 5-door Multi Personnel Vehicle (MPV), and with 1.6, i .8 and 2.2 litre petrol engines, and 1.9 litre diesel engines. 2.0 litre turbo petrol engines are also available, but are not covered in this manual. All the petrol engines are DOHC 16-valve units, whereas the diesel engines are available in either SOHC 8-valve, or DOHC 16-valve form. According to engine type, the manual gearbox is of the 5- or 6-speed all synchromesh type, with a 4- or 6-speed electronically- controlled automatic transmission optionally available on certain models. All models have front-wheel-drive with fully-independent front suspension, and semi- independent rear suspension with a torsion beam and trailing arms. A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the Zafira range to suit most tastes, including electro/hydraulic power steering, air conditioning, remote central locking, electric windows, electric sunroof, anti-lock braking system, electronic alarm system and supplemental restraint systems. For the home mechanic, the Zafira is a relatively straightforward vehicle to maintain, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible. Your Vauxhall/Opel Zafira manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs, it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components, so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the 'left' or 'right' are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat, facing forward. Project vehicles The main vehicle used in the preparation of this manual, and which appears in many of the photographic sequences, was a Vauxhall Zafira 'Life' with a 1.6 litre petrol engine. Additional work was carried out on a Zafira 'Design' with a 1.9 litre SOHC diesel engine. Acknowledgements Thanks are also due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Burning • Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. Crushing • When working under or near -3 a raised vehicle, n ~ always ~..,£...... "(], }t.,_ @© supplement the /1@ - ~~ -~ jack with axle 'ill!J.~f~f§[~~~~ st~nds, or use /I'~ dnve-on - \) ramps. ~((,~ILJ...-~ Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. • Take care if loosening or tightening high- torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. Fire • Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights {including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. Electric shock 1.. 1 1 ? ,, • Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to f-'" ,.r people with heart f problems or a ,..r pacemaker. Don't ./ work on or near the ) ~ ignition system with J 1 1 < ) "\,._' the engine running or J \ , , the ignition switched on. • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil- soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. Safety First! o·s Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some 0-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads. Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply. Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

o•6 Roadside repairs The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. car won't start and .............. _ motor doesn't [::] If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in P or N. O Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. O Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend's car. If your car won't start even though the starter motor turns as normal O Is there fuel in the tank? O Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent} on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. 3 Check all multiplugs and wiring connectors for security. 4 Check that all fuses are still in good condition and none have blown. Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp.

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: II' Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. Caution: Remove the key in case the central locking engages when the jump leads are connected. II' Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off. II' Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case. II' Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. v If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. e/ Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission). Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive(+) terminal of the booster battery. r Roadside repairs o•? Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drjve-belts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

o·s Roadside repairs Wheel changing Note: Most Zafira models are equipped with a puncture repair kit and do not have a spare wheel and jack. If your car has a puncture repair kit, refer to the information contained on the next page. A\. Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a Jay-by or .£ll.. a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. Preparation [] When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. D Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. D Use hazard warning lights if necessary. Changing the wheel 1 Lift the floor covering and open the storage compartment by lifting and turning the retaining ring. Release the strap and lift out the tool bag. 4 On models with steel wheels, use the special tool to pull the wheel trim from the wheel. On models with alloy wheels, use the screwdriver provided inserted at the wheel bolt holes to prise off the trim. Slacken each wheel bolt by half a turn. D If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. D Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission). 2 The spare wheel is located under the rear of the car. Unscrew the spare wheel cradle retaining bolt in the luggage compartment floor using the wheel brace. 5 Locate the jack head below the jacking point nearest the wheel to be changed; the jacking point is indicated by an arrow in the sill. Turn the handle until the base of the jack touches the ground ensuring that the jack is vertical. Raise the vehicle until the wheel is clear of the ground. If the tyre is flat make sure that the vehicle is raised sufficiently to allow the spare wheel to be fitted. 7 Lower the vehicle to the ground, then finally tighten the wheel bolts in a diagonal sequence. Refit the wheel trim. Note that the wheel bolts should be tightened to the specified torque at the earliest opportunity. [] Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this. D If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack. 3 From under the car, unhook the catch and lower the spare wheel cradle. Detach the safety cable and lower the cradle to the ground. Lift out the spare wheel. 6 Remove the bolts and lift the wheel from the vehicle. Place it beneath the sill as a precaution against the jack failing. Fit the spare wheel and tighten the bolts moderately with the wheel brace. Finally ... D Remove the wheel chocks. f.J Place the damaged wheel or tyre in the spare wheel cradle, then raise and secure the cradle. ~ Stow the jack and tools in the storage compartment and refit the cover. D Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. D Have the punctured wheel repaired at the earliest opportunity.

Roadside repairs o•9 Using the puncture repair kit /:... Warning: Do not attempt to repair a punctured tyre in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to L..!l., stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while using the kit - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. +. Warning: Repair of a tyre using the puncture repair kit must be regarded as a 'get you home' emergency repair only. A new tyre ~ must be fitted as soon as possible. Preparation O When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. D Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. Repairing the puncture 1 Open the storage compartment cover located at the right-hand side of the luggage compartment. Take out the sealant bottle and bracket together with the air hose. 4 Take the long air hose into the car and screw it onto the connection on the electric pump. Important notes D Use hazard warning lights if necessary. D If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. 2 Detach the air hose from the bracket and screw it onto the sealant bottle connection. Slide the sealant bottle onto the bracket making sure it is fully located and will not fall over. 5 Open the cover on the front of the electric pump, pull out the wiring plug and insert it into the adjacent accessory socket. To avoid discharging the battery when the electric pump is running, it is advisable to start the engine. D If the correct tyre pressure is not obtained within 10 minutes, it is likely that the tyre is too badly damaged to be repaired with the kit. D If it is necessary to release the pressure in the tyre, press the '-' button on the electric pump. l] The maximum speed sticker attached to the sealant bottle should be placed in the driver's field of view. Do not exceed the permitted maximum speed until an undamaged wheel and tyre have been fitted. O On completion, disconnect the sealant bottle, tyre repair kit and long air hose, and connect the end of the short air hose to the free connection on the sealant bottle. This will prevent any remaining sealant from leaking out. D Continue driving immediately so that the sealant is evenly distributed around the inside of the tyre. [] After driving approximately 6 miles (but no more than 1 O minutes) stop and check the tyre pressure by connecting the long air hose directly to the tyre valve. As long as the pressure indicated on the gauge is more than 1 .3 bar (19 psi) it may be adjusted using the electric pump. If the pressure has fallen below 1.3 bar (19 psi) the repair has not been successful and the car should not be driven. It will therefore be necessary to seek roadside assistance. O Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission). 3 Unscr~wJhe dust cap from the punctured tyre, and screw the sealant bottle short air hose onto the tyre valve. 6 Press the '+' button on the electric pump to start the pump. The pump will initially pump the sealant into the tyre which will take approximately 30 seconds, and then start to inflate the tyre. During the initial 30 second period the pressure gauge on the pump will indicate up to 6 bar (87 psi) and then drop. The correct tyre pressure (see end of Weekly checks) should be obtained within 10 minutes. The electric pump can then be switched off by pressing the'+' button again. Finally ..• D Stow the puncture repair kit in the storage compartment and refit the storage compartment cover. O Do not exceed 50 mph until a new tyre has been fitted. O Obtain a new sealant bottle as soon as possible, or another puncture will leave you stranded.

0·10 Weekly checks Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. Sump oil Engine oil may leak from the drain plug ... Antifreeze Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: D Use a proper tow-rope they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. DAlways turn the ignition key to the 'on' position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and the direction indicator and brake lights work. Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay. Oil from filter ... or from the base of the oil filter. Brake fluid A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid. D Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. DTo fit the towing eye, remove the circular cover from the front or rear bumper, as required, then screw in the towing eye anti- clockwise as far as it will go using the handle of the wheel brace to turn the eye. Note that the towing eye has a left-hand thread. DA towing eye is provided with the tool kit in the luggage compartment. D Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. 'the smell of a. fluid leahtng from the car may provld~.a clue to .what's Ieakin{l, So1m1 t '----" fluids are distinct.lvefy coloured. It may help to clean ·tne· car carefully and to park it over some ~ean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the fttatt •. Remember that some leaks may only isnmnjng. Gearbox oil Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. Power steering fluid Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack. D Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. D Greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required. []The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. D Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. LJ Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

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2005-2010 Opel Vauxhall Zafira Petrol Diesel Service & Repair Manual

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