1997 Toyota Corolla Service & Repair Manual Software

Toyota Corolla Owners Workshop Manual Martynn Randall Models covered Saloon, Hatchback, Liftback & Estate, including special/limited editions 1.3 litre (1332cc), 1.4 litre (1398cc) & 1.6 litre (1587cc & 1598cc) petrol Does NOT cover models with 1.8 litre (1762cc) petrol engine, diesel engines, or 4-wheel-drive Does NOT cover new Corolla range introduced January 2002 © Haynes Publishing 2006 A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. ISBN 1 84425 286 8 Printed in the USA Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes 4, Rue de I'Abreuvoir 92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR TOYOTA COROLLA Safety first! Introduction Roadside repairs Introduction If your car won't start Jump starting Wheel changing Identifying leaks Towing Weekly checks Introduction Underbonnet check points Engine oil level Coolant level Brake and clutch fluid level Washer fluid level Tyre condition and pressure Power steering fluid level Wiper blades Battery Bulbs and fuses Lubricants and fluids Tyre pressures Page 0•5 Page 0•6 Page 0•7 Page 0•7 Page 0•8 Page 0•9 Page 0•10 Page 0•10 Page 0•11 Page 0•11 Page 0•12 Page 0•12 Page 0•13 Page 0•13 Page 0•14 Page 0•15 Page 0•15 Page 0•16 Page 0•16 Page 0•17 Page 0•17 MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Servicing specifications Maintenance schedule Maintenance procedures Page 1•2 Page 1•4 Page 1•8

Contents Engine in-car repair procedures Engine removal and overhaul procedures Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Fuel and exhaust systems Emission control systems Starting and charging systems Ignition systems Transmission Clutch Manual transmission Automatic transmission Driveshafts Brakes and suspension Braking system Suspension and steering Body equipment Bodywork and fittings Body electrical system Wiring diagrams REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Conversion factors Buying spare parts Vehicle identification General repair procedures Jacking and vehicle support Tools and working facilities MOT test checks Fault finding Glossary of technical terms Page 2A•1 Page 2B•1 Page 3•1 Page 4A•1 Page 4B•1 Page 5A•1 Page 5B•1 Page 6•1 Page 7A•1 Page 7B•1 Page 8•1 Page 9•1 Page 10•1 Page 11•1 Page 12•1 Page 12•20 Page REF•1 Page REF•2 Page REF•3 Page REF•3 Page REF•4 Page REF•5 Page REF•6 Page REF•8 Page REF•12 Page REF•22 Index Page REF•27 REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems

0•4 Advanced Driving Advanced driving Many people see the words 'advanced driving' and believe that it won't interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own abilities. Nothing could be further from the truth. Advanced driving is straightforward safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we should all do every time we get behind the wheel. An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some seriously. Lives are ruined daily, usually because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95% of all accidents are due to human error, mostly driver failure. Sometimes we make genuine mistakes - everyone does. Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks. For many people, the process of 'learning to drive' doesn't go much further than learning how to pass the driving test because of a common belief that good drivers are made by 'experience'. Learning to drive by 'experience' teaches three driving skills: • Quick reactions. (Whoops, that was close!) • Good handling skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn). • Reliance on vehicle technology. (Great stuff this ABS, stop in no distance even in the wet...) Drivers whose skills are 'experience based' generally have a lot of near misses and the odd accident. The results can be seen every day in our courts and our hospital casualty departments. Advanced drivers have learnt to control the risks by controlling the position and speed of their vehicle. They avoid accidents and near misses, even if the drivers around them make mistakes. The key skills of advanced driving are concentration, effective all-round observation, anticipation and planning. When good vehicle handling is added to these skills, all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a safe, methodical way, leaving nothing to chance. Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving, completely excluding anything that's not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines. It deserves our full attention. Observation means not just looking, but seeing and seeking out the information found in the driving environment. Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening, what you can reasonably expect to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is 'suddenly'.) Planning is the link between seeing something and taking the appropriate action. For many drivers, planning is the missing link. If you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more, contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at www.iam.org.uk, phone 0208 996 9600, or write to IAM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack.

Safety First! 0•5 Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Burning • Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. • Take care if loosening or tightening high- torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. Fire • Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. Electric shock • Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil- soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads. Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply. Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results. Remember... DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system. • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DON'T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don't rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. • Don't use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury. • Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don't allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Introduction Toyota Corolla 3 Continuing the tradition of the 'World's best-selling car', the range of Corolla models covered by this manual offers a wide range of body styles and engines, with the emphasis on proven, solid engineering, further reinforcing Toyota's deserved reputation for outstanding reliability. Introduced in June 1997, the Corolla was available as a 3-door Hatchback, 5-door Liftback, 4-door Saloon and a 5-door Estate, with a 5-door Hatchback version introduced in October 1998. In October 1999, the range underwent a facelift, with cosmetic revisions to the front bumper, headlights, bonnet and front grille. To coincide with the facelift, a new range of petrol engines, with variable intake camshaft timing, was introduced, replacing the existing units. The petrol engines are all fuel injected, in-line, four-cylinder units of 1332 cc, 1398 cc, 1587 cc door Hatchback or 1598 cc displacement with double overhead camshaft and 16 valves. All engines are normally aspirated, with the 1.4 litre and 1.6 litre VVT-i engines (October 1999-on), incorporating an hydraulically controlled mechanism on the intake camshaft which varies the valve timing. This facility improves the driveability, efficiency and emissions of the engines. All engines feature a comprehensive engine management system with extensive emission control equipment. Although two diesel engines were available, neither are covered in this manual. 5- or 6-speed manual transmissions were available, along with 3- or 4-speed automatic options. Although a four-wheel-drive model was available in some markets, only the front- wheel-drive versions are covered by this manual. Toyota Corolla 5-door Liftback Braking is by discs at the front, and by drums or discs at the rear. Hydraulically operated power-assisted steering is standard on all models, with ABS available as an option. A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the range to suit virtually all tastes. Both a driver's and passenger's airbag were fitted as standard, with side airbags, incorporated into the front seats, and front seat belt pretensioners, available as an option on some models after the October 1999 facelift. Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, the Toyota Corolla will provide the enviable reliability for which this marque is famous. The engine compartment is relatively spacious, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible. Your Toyota manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. The illustrations are numbered by the Section number and paragraph number to which they relate - if there is more than one illustration per paragraph, the sequence is denoted alphabetically. References to the 'left' or 'right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat, facing forwards. Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.

Roadside repairs 0•7 The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. If your car won't start and the starter motor doesn't turn • If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in P or N. • Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. • Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend's car. If your car won't start even though the starter motor turns as normal • Is there fuel in the tank? • Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Check the security of the ignition coil(s) electrical connectors. B Check the security of the airflow meter wiring plug. C Check that all fuses are still in good condition and none have blown. D Check the security and condition of the battery connections. Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with Check the security of the HT leads (non- a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp E VVT-i engines). A

0•8 Roadside repairs Jump starting When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: • Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. • Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off. • Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case. • Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. • if the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. • Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission). Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: 1 The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. 2 The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). 3 The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out). Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery. Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the cooling fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

Roadside repairs 0•9 Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. Wheel changing Preparation • When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. • Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. • Use hazard warning lights if necessary. Changing the wheel • If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. • Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission). • Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this. • If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack. 1 From inside the luggage compartment, remove the trim panel and remove the jack.. . 4 Prise off the wheel trim (where fitted), then slacken each wheel nut by a half turn, using the wheelbrace. If the nuts are too tight, DON'T stand on the brace to undo them - call for assistance. On models with alloy wheels, a Toyota socket may be needed to remove the security nut - the socket should be in the glovebox or toolkit. 2 . . . or lift the panel in the luggage compartment floor. On some models the tools are stored with the spare wheel. 5 Engage the jack head with the reinforced bracket located at the end of the sill (don't jack the vehicle at any other point of the sill). 7 Fit the spare wheel, then fit and screw on the nuts. Lightly tighten the nuts with the wheelbrace, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Securely tighten the wheel nuts in the sequence shown, then refit the wheel trim or hub cap, as applicable. The wheel nuts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque (103 Nm) at the earliest possible opportunity. 3 Lift the carpet then unscrew the spare wheel retainer from the centre of the wheel and lift out the wheel. 6 Turn the handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground, then unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. Finally... • Remove the wheel chocks. • Stow the jack and tools back in the car. • Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the correct pressure. Note: Some models are supplied with a special lightweight 'space-saver' spare wheel, the tyre being narrower than standard, and marked TEMPORARY USE ONLY. The space-saver spare wheel is intended only for temporary use, and must be replaced with a standard wheel as soon as possible. Drive with particular care with this wheel fitted, especially through corners and when braking - Toyota recommend a maximum speed of 50 mph (80 km/h) when the special spare wheel is in use.

1997 Toyota Corolla Service & Repair Manual Software

You're Reading a Preview

Recently Viewed