2000 SAAB 9-3 Service Repair

Saab 9-3 Owne rs Workshop Manual A K Legg AAE MIMI Models covered Coupe , Hatchback & Convertible, including special/limited editions Petrol: 2.0 litre (1985cc) & 2.3 litre (2290cc), inc. turbo Turbo-Diesel: 2.2 litre (2171 cc) Also covers Convertible models to August 2003 Does NOT cover new Saab 9-3 range introduced September 2002 (Convertible September 2003) (4614- 336)

Content s LIVING WITH YOUR SA ~B 9-3 Safety first! Page 0•5 Introduction to the Saab 9-3 Page 0•6 Roadside Repairs If your car won't start Page 0•7 Jump starting Page 0•8 Wheel changing Page 0•9 Identifying leaks Page 0•10 Towing Page 0•11 Weekly Checks Introduction Page 0•12 Underbonnet check points Page 0•12 Engine oil level Page 0•13 Coolant level Page 0•14 Brake (and clutch) fluid level Page 0•14 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•15 Washer fluid level Page 0•16 Electrical systems Page 0•16 Battery Page 0•17 Wiper blades Page 0•17 Lubricants and fluids Page 0•18 Tyre pressures Page 0•18 MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and ser Vicing Petrol engine models Page 1A•1 Maintenance schedule Page 1A•3 Maintenance procedures Page 1A•5 Diesel engine models Page 18•1 Maintenance schedule Page 18•3 Maintenance procedures Page 18•5 Illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyr, ~hts and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all fo Ins of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provide( expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the approp riate statutory authorities. I I I

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems Petrol engine in-car repair procedures Diesel engine in-car repair procedures Engine removal and overhaul procedures Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Petrol engine fuel and exhaust systems Diesel engine fuel and exhaust systems Emission control systems Starting and charging systems Ignition system- petrol engines Preheating system - diesel engines Transmission Clutch Manual transmission Automatic transmission Driveshafts Brakes and suspension Braking system Suspension and steering systems Body equipment Bodywork and fittings Body electrical system Wiring diagrams REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Conversion factors Buying spare parts Vehicle identification numbers General repair procedures Jacking and vehicle support Disconnecting the battery Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precautions Tools and working facilities MOT test checks Fault finding Glossary of technical terms Index Contents Page 2A•1 Page 28•1 Page 2C•1 Page 3•1 Page 4A•1 Page 48•1 Page 4C•1 Page 5A•1 Page 58•1 Page 5C•1 Page 6•1 Page 7A•1 Page 78•1 Page 8•1 Page 9•1 Page 10•1 Page 11•1 Page 12•1 Page 12•17 Page REF•1 Page REF•2 Page REF•3 Page REF•3 Page REF•4 Page REF•S Page REF•S Page REF•S Page REF•6 Page REF•8 Page REF•12 Page REF•20 Page REF•24

o·4 Advanced Driving Advanced driving Many people see the words ' advanced driving' and believe that it won't interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own abilities . Nothing could be further from the truth . Advanced driving is straightforward safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we should all do every time we get behind the wheel. An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some seriously . Lives are ruined daily , usually because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95 % of all accidents are due to human error, mostly driver failure . Sometimes we make genuine mistakes - everyone does . Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks. For many peo le, the process of 'learning to drive' doesn 't o much further than learning how to pass e driving test because of a common belie that good drivers are made by 'experience'. by 'e xperience ' teaches D Quick react (Whoops, that was close!) D Good hand! g skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn n Reliance on ehicle technology. (Great stuff this A , stop in no distance even in the wet...) Drivers whose skills are ' experience based ' generally hav a lot of near misses and the odd accident. he results can be seen every day in our co s and our hospital casualty departments. Advanced dr iv rs have learnt to control the risks by contra ing the position and speed of their vehicle. ey avoid accidents and near misses, even if he drivers around them make mistakes. The key concentratio of advanced driving are effective all-round observation, nticipation and planning. When good v hicle handling is added to i these skills , all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a safe , methodical way , leaving nothing to chance. Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving , completely excluding anything that's not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines . It deserves our full attention. Observation means not just looking, but seeing and seeking out the information found in the driving environment. Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening , what you can reasonably expect to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is 'suddenly'.) Planning is the link between seeing something and taking the appropriate action . For many drivers , planning is the missing link. If you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more, contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at www.iam.org.uk , phone 0208 996 9600, or write to lAM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack.

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Burning • Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. Crushing ramps. \.,\(('~[i==]lm~~L Never _ venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. • Take care if loosening or tightening high- torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. Fire • Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools}. • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don 't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. Electric shock • Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to r-- ,../ people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Do n't work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on . ? ? • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil- soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such compone nts it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. Re member ... DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working al one on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehic le- especially the electrical system. • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. Safety First! o·s Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber , found in some 0-rings , oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C . The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate th e limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads. Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply . Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. A Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results. DON'T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability- get assistance. • Don 't rush to finish a job , or take unverified short cuts . • Don't use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury. • Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don't allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

o· 6 In trod ucti on to the Sa b 9-3 The Saab 9-3 was introduced in the UK in March 1998, as a replacement for the 900. It is based on the Vauxhall Vectra chassis, and is available as a 2-door Convertible , 3- door Coupe , or 5-door Hatchback . Petrol engines available are 2. 0 litre and 2.3 litre, both turbo and non-turbo , and the diesel engine is a 2.2 litre turbo. The petrol engine has two chain-driven overhead camshafts (DOHC) with 16 valves acting on hydraulic tappets, and a balancer shaft. The diesel engine has a chain- driven , single overhead camshaft (SOHC) with16 valves acting on hydraulic tappets. Standard equipment includes power- assisted steering, anti-lock brakes , remote deadlock central locking, twin front and side airbags, electric windows and mirrors, and air conditioning. Optional extras include electric sunroof, electric front seats, leather upholstery and CD autochanger. Models may be fitted with a five-speed relatively strai and repair, si incorporated ownership to items requirin accessible. Saa b 9-3 Hatchbac k ssion or four-speed automatic nted on the left-hand si de of nt front and rear suspension, stru ts , gas- fil led s hock co il springs. mechanic, the Saab 9-3 is a htf orward vehicle to maintain e design features have been reduce the actual co st of minimum , and most of the frequent attention are easily manual is to help you get the your vehicle. It can do so in an help you deci de what work should you choose to get e) , provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself . On simpler jobs , it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice , to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important , a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components , so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the 'left' or 'right' are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat, facing forward. Acknowledgements Thanks are also due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We ta ke great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual , but vehicle manuf acturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss , damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. Project vehicle The main vehicle used in the preparation of this manual, and which appears in many of the photographic sequences, was a 2001 Saab SE Convertible fitted with the 2.0 litre turbocharged petrol engine and automatic transmission.

Roadside repairs o·7 The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common road si de emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. If your car won't start and the starter motor doesn't turn [ 1 Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. 0 Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very di:n when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend's car. If your car won't start even though the starter moto r turns as normal [ I Is there fuel in the tank? I Is there any moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors . A Check that the battery cables are securely connected. B Check that the ignition discharge module wiring is securely connected. C Check that the mass airflow meter wiring is securely connected . Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water- dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp D Check the engine wiring loom multiplugs for security. E Check that none of the compartment fuses have blown. engine

o·s Roadside repairs Jump starting When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions : v Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off . v Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off. v Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case. that the booster battery is the e as the discharged one in is being jump-started from in another vehicle, the two UST NOT TOUCH each other. that the transmission is in PARK, in the case of automatic n). (+)terminal of the booster .., r ...1 r I _J Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: 1 The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. 2 The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). 3 The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out). Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-)terminal of the booster battery Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a suitable metal part of the engine on the car to be started I Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive- belts or other moving parts of the engine. i Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demi ster and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn oft the lights etc.

Roadside repairs o•9 Wheel changing A Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by ~ or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel- it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. Preparation L J When a puncture occurs , stop as soon as it is safe to do so. j Park on firm level ground , if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. rl Use hazard warning lights if necessary. Changing the wheel 1 The spare wheel, jack and wheel removal tools are stored beneath a c over in the luggage compartment. 4 Before you rai se the car, loos en each wheel bolt by half a turn only. 7 Fit the spare wheel, then insert each of the wheel bolts and tighten them moderately using the wheel brace . If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your prese nce. Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission). 2 Un sc rew the retaining nut and lift out the spare wheel. Place it beneath the sill as a precaution against the jack failing. Note that the spare wheel is of the 's pace saver' type . 5 Locate the jack head below the reinforced jacking points (indicated by the cut-outs in the sill), nearest the wheel to be changed. Turn the handle until the ba se of the jack touches the ground then mak e sure that the base is located directly below the sill. Raise the vehicle until the wheel is clear of the ground. 8 Lower the vehicle to the ground, then finally tighten the whee l bolts in a diagonal sequence. Note that th e wheel bolts should be tightened to the specified torque at the earliest opportunity. Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this. If the ground is soft , use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack . 3 Where fitted, pull the wheel trim from the wheel. On models with alloy wheels, use the plastic tool provided to prise the cap from the locking wheel bolt , then fit the special adapter. 6 If the tyre is flat make sure that the vehicle is raised sufficiently to allow the spare wheel to be fitted. Remove the bolts and lift the wheel from the vehicle. Place it beneath the sill in place of the spare as a precaution against the jack failing . Finally ... I I Remove the wheel chocks. 1 Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don 't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. 1 Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible. A Warning: You should not exceed 5~ mph when driving the vehicle wtth a space saver spare wheel fitted - consult your vehicle handbook for further information.

o·1o Roadside repairs Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage fl oor or drive , or .&. obvious wetness under the bonnet or f underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs • investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car , giving a false impression of where the problem lies. Sump oil Oil from ilter Engine oil may leak from the drain plug ... Antifreeze Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running. Gearbox oil Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. Power steering fluid Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

2000 SAAB 9-3 Service Repair

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