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2010 PEUGEOT 308 Service and Repair Manual
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Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR PEUGEOT 308
Introduction Page 0•4
Safety first! P~ge 0•5
Roadside repairs
Introduction Page 0•6
If your car won't start Page 0•6
Jump starting Page 0•7
Identifying leaks Page 0•8
Towing Page 0•9
Wheel changing Page 0•10
Weekly checks
Introduction Page 0•12
Underbonnet check points Page 0•12
Engine oil level Page 0•13
Coolant level Page 0 •13
Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14
Brake and clutch fluid level Page 0•15
Power steeri ng fluid level Page 0•15
Screen washer fluid level Page 0•1 6
Wiper blades ·Page 0•16
Battery Page 0•17
Bulbs and fuses Page 0•17
Lubricants and fluids Page 0•18
Tyre pressures Page 0•18
MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicing
Petrol engine models Page 1A•1
Servicing specifications Page 1A•2
Maintenance schedule Page 1A•3
Maintenance procedures Page 1A•5
Diesel engine models Page 18•1
Servicing specifications Page 18•2
Maintenance schedule Page 18•3
Maintenance procedures Page 18 •5

&
Engine and associated systems
Non-turbo (VTi) petrol engines in-car repair procedures
Turbo (fHP) petrol engines in-car repair procedures
Diesel engines in-car repair procedures
Transmission
Clutch
Manual transmission
Driveshafts
- diesel models
Brakes and suspension
Body equipment
Wiring diagrams
Conversion factors
Vehicle identification numbers
General repair procedures
Index
Page 2A"1
Page 28"1
Page 2C•i
Page 2D"i
Page 9 .. 1
Page
Page 11"1
Page
Page REF•1
Page REF•29

The Peugeot 308 was introduced into the
UK in August 2007. At its launch, the 308
was offered with a choice of 1.4 (1360cc),
1.6 (1587cc and 1598cc) and 2.0 litre
(1997cc) petrol engines or 1.6 litre (1560cc)
and 2.0 litre (1997cc) turbo-diesel engines.
It was available in two body styles - a 3-
and 5-door Hatchback and in April 2008
the Estate SW (Sports Wagon) model was
released.
The engines fitted to the 308 range are all
versions of the well-proven units which have
appeared in many Peugeot/Citroen vehicles
over the years, with the 1.6 litre HDI engine
developed in a joint venture with the Ford
Motor Co.
The engine is mounted transversely at
the front of vehicle, with the transmission
mounted on its left-hand end. All engines are
fitted with a manual transmission as standard
(an automatic transmission is available on
certain engines).
All models have fully independent front
suspension, incorporating shock absorbers,
coil springs and an anti-roll bar. The rear beam
axle has a built-in anti-roll bar, with separate
shock absorbers and coil spring.
A wide range of standard and optional
equipment is available within the range to suit
most tastes, including central locking, electric
windows and front, side and curtain airbags.
An air conditioning system is available on all
models.
Provided that regular servicing is carried
out in accordance with the manufacturer's
recommendations, the vehicle should prove
reliable and very economical. The engine
compartment is well designed, and most
of the items requiring frequent attention are
easily accessible.
Your Peugeot 308 manual
The aim of this manual is to help you get
the best value from your vehicle. It can do
so in several ways. It can help you decide
what work must be done (even should you
choose to get it done by a garage). It will also
provide information on routine maintenance
and servicing, and give a logical course of
action and diagnosis when random faults
occur. However, it is hoped that you will use
the manual by tackling the work yourself.
On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than
booking the car into a garage and going there
twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most
important, a lot of money can be saved by
avoiding the costs a garage must charge to
cover its labour and overheads.
The manual has drawings and descriptions
to show the function of the various components
so that their layout can be understood. Tasks
are described and photographed in a clear
step-by-step sequence.
References to the 'left' and 'right' of the
vehicle are in the sense of a person in the
driver's seat facing forward.
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited and
Auto Service Tools Limited (asttools.co.uk)
who provided some of the workshop tools,
and to all those people at Sparkford who
helped in the production of this manual.
We take great pride in the accuracy of
information given in this manual, but
vehicle manufacturers make alterations
and design changes during the production
run of a particular vehicle of which they
do not inform us. No liability can be
accepted by the authors or publishers
for loss, damage or injury caused by
any errors in, or omissions from, the
information given.

Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
"Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank
cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, transmission fluid or power
steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if
the engine has recently been running.
Buming
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake
discs and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near .... c::\
a raised vehicle, always ~
supplement the jack ~ (~t __ $,;, ......mi
with axle.stands, /II ~"'(!~ =#'f"'
or use dnve-on f l{j_
ramps.
Never venture 11 ) l
under a car lH
which is only
supported by
a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should be
done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks (electrically or by use of
tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT and
Xenon headlight
voltages can
be dangerous,
especially to ,.,..
people with ,.r
heart problems or
a pacemaker. Don't ...r
work on or near / "
these systems with ) ~
the engine running or J J 1,. $ \ "-
the ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they
can contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the engine
in a confined
space such as
a garage with the
doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil
can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use
a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of
oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags
in your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some 0-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc,
are exposed to temperatures above 4000C.
The rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
" Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark
or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful
when connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Airbags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and trim panels. Special
storage instructions may apply.
Diesel injection
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on the
fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.

o•6 Roadside rs
The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more
detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.
D If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector
is in the P or N position.
D Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are
clean and tight.
D Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the
headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is
probably flat. Try jump starting using another car.
your car
though the
turns as normal
D Is there fuel in the tank?
even
motor
D Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet?
Switch off the ignition, and then wipe off any obvious dampness
with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40
or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like
those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition
coils wiring connector. (Note that diesel engines don't normally
suffer from damp.)
Remove the plastic cover and check
the condition and security of the battery
connections.
Check that the ignition system (as
applicable) wiring connectors are securely
connected (turbo petrol model shown).
Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with
a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp.
Check the camshaft sensor wmng
connectors are securely connected (turbo
petrol model shown).
Remove the cover and check that all
fuses are still in good condition and none
have blown.

When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:
II' Before connecting the booster
battery, make sure that the ignition is
switched off.
Caution: Remove the key in case the
central locking engages when the
jump leads are connected
!/ Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc} is
switched off.
Connect the other end of the red lead to
the positive(+) terminal of the booster
battery.
Roadsi
J
I/ Take note of any special precautions
printed on the battery case.
v Make sure that the booster battery is
the same voltage as the discharged
one in the vehicle.
V' If the battery is being jump-started
from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.
v Make sure that the transmission is
in neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission}.
Connect the other end of the black jump
lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine
block, well away from the battery, on the
vehicle to be started.
Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drive-belts
or other moving parts of the engine.
Start the engine using the booster
battery and run it at idle speed. Switch
on the lights, rear window demister and
heater blower motor, then disconnect
the jump leads in the reverse order of
connection. Turn off the lights etc.

Puddles on the garage floor or drive,
or obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that
needs investigating. It can sometimes be
difficult to decide where the leak is coming
from, especially if an engine undershield is
fitted. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the problem
lies.
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug ...
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.
Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.
... or from the base of the oil filter.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home - or of course you
may be helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
D Use a proper tow-rope - they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ON TOW sign in its rear window.
DAlways turn the ignition key to the 'on'
position when the vehicle is being towed, so
that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights work.
DThe towing eye is kept inside the spare
Unclip the access cover from the rear
bumper ...
wheel (see Wheel changing) on Hatchback
models, and behind the right-hand side
luggage compartment trim panel on Estates.
To fit the eye, unclip the access cover from the
relevant bumper and screw the eye firmly into
position (see illustrations).
D Before being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission.
Caution: On models with automatic
transmission, do not tow the car at speeds
in excess of 30 mph or for a distance
greater than 30 miles. If towing speeds/
distances are to exceed these limits, then
the car must be towed with its front wheels
off the ground.
•.. then screw the towing eye in securely
(use wheel brace through eye to tighten)
Road
D Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure
will be required to operate the brakes, since
the vacuum servo unit is only operational with
the engine running.
DThe driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
D Make sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
DOnly drive at moderate speeds and keep the
distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly
and allow plenty of time for slowing down at
junctions.
Unclip the cover and fit the towing eye to
the front of the vehicle

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or
a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.
D When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as
it is safe to do so.
D Park on firm level ground, if possible, and
well out of the way of other traffic.
D Use hazard warning lights if necessary.
1
The spare wheel and tools are stored in
the luggage compartment on Hatchback
models. Lift up the carpet and polystyrene
storage cover, unclip the tool kit from the
centre of the spare wheel. Unscrew the centre
fastener and remove the spare wheel.
On models with steel wheels, remove the
wheel trim/hub cap.
D If you have one, use a warning triangle to
alert other drivers of your presence.
D Apply the handbrake and engage first
or reverse gear (or Park on models with
automatic transmission).
On Estate models, the spare wheel and
some tools are stored beneath the rear of
the vehicle, whilst the remaining tools are
stored behind the left-hand plastic trim in the
luggage compartment. Pull up the cover in the
luggage compartment floor, swivel the cover
around and, using the tool supplied in the tool
kit behind the plastic trim, rotate the winch
bolt anti-clockwise ...
Where anti-theft wheel bolts are fitted,
pull off the plastic cover using the yellow
plastic tool in the tool kit ...
D Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the
one being removed - a couple of large
stones will do for this.
D If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of
wood to spread the load under the jack.
. .. to lower the spare wheel and jack/tool
box from under the rear of the vehicle.
... then unscrew the anti-theft bolt using
the special tool provided - normally stored
in the passenger glovebox or toolkit.

7
With the vehicle still on the ground, use
the tool provided to slacken each wheel
bolt by half a turn.
10
Fit the spare wheel and screw in the
bolts. Lightly tighten the bolts with the
wheel brace then lower the car to the
ground.
Using the puncture repair kit
1
On models without a spare wheel
supplied, use the puncture repair
kit ...
8
Make sure the jack is located on firm
ground, and engage the jack head
correctly with the sill. Then raise the
jack until the wheel is raised clear of the
ground.
11
Securely tighten the wheel bolts in
a diagonal sequence then refit the
wheel trim/hub cap/wheel bolt covers
(as applicable). Stow the punctured wheel and
tools back in the boot, and secure them in
position (Hatchback models) ...
... and and supplied in the spare
wheel well under the rear luggage
compartment carpet to inflate the tyre
(read instructions with the repair kit before
use).
9
Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the
wheel. Place the wheel under the vehicle
sill in case the jack fails.
... on Estate models feed the winch
cable through the wheel, locate the
cable end in the lid of the tool/jack
box, and use the brace to retract the winch
cable.
Finally .••
D Remove the wheel chock.
D Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just
fitted. If it is low, or if you don't have a
pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to
the next garage and inflate the tyre to the
correct pressure.
D The wheel bolts should be slackened
and retightened to the specified torque
at the earliest possible opportunity (see
Chapter i A or 18).
D Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired
as soon as possible, or another puncture
will leave you stranded.
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The 2010 PEUGEOT 308 Service and Repair Manual is a comprehensive guide for maintaining and fixing your PEUGEOT 308. Whether you are a DIY enthusiast or a professional mechanic, this manual has all the information you need to keep your car in optimal condition.
Key features of the 2010 PEUGEOT 308 Service and Repair Manual:
- Thorough explanations of various systems and components
- Step-by-step instructions for performing maintenance tasks
- Diagnostic procedures to identify and troubleshoot issues
- Detailed illustrations and diagrams for easy understanding
- Comprehensive coverage of both basic and advanced repair procedures
- Specifications and technical data for accurate repairs
Models covered in this manual:
- PEUGEOT 308 Hatchback
- PEUGEOT 308 SW (Estate)
- PEUGEOT 308 CC (Convertible)
- PEUGEOT 308 GTi (Hot Hatch)
- PEUGEOT 308 RCZ (Sports Coupe)
Whether you need to change the oil, replace a part, or diagnose an electrical problem, the 2010 PEUGEOT 308 Service and Repair Manual is your go-to resource. With this manual, you can save time and money by performing repairs and maintenance tasks yourself.