Peugeot 307 Full Workshop Service and Repair Manual

PEUGEOT s m s 14147 1 RBfloe sxs tuts imraSScrv^ 2001 to 2008 (Y to 58 reg) Petrol & Diesel Owners Workshop Manual expert22 p,r\n http://rutracker.org

Peugeot 307 Service and Repair Manual Martynn Randall Models covered (4147-344) Peugeot 307 Hatchback & Estate/SW models, including special/limited editions Petrol engines: 1.4 litre (1360cc) SOHC, 1.6 litre (1587cc) & 2.0 litre (1997cc) Turbo-Diesel engines: 1.4 litre (1398cc) SOHC & 2.0 litre (1997cc) Does NOT cover 307CC or Coupe models Does NOT cover 1.4 litre DOHC 16-valve petrol & diesel engines introduced during 2004 © Haynes Publishing 2004 raSf Printed in the USA A book In the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series FGHL ruiwu miinuon KLMNO TO Haynes Publishing Sparkford. Yeovil. Somerset BA?? 7JJ. England All rights reserved. No part ot this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, Including photocopying, recording or by any Information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park. California 91320, USA Editions Haynes 4, Rue de I'Abreuvoir 92415 COURBEVOIE C.EDEX. France ISBN 1 84425 147 0 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Haynes Publishing Nordlska AB Box 1504,751 45 UPPSALA. Sverige

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR PEUGEOT 307 Safety first! Page 0*5 Introduction Page 0*6 Roadside repairs Introduction Page 0-7 If your car won’t start Page 0«7 Jump starting Page 0»8 Identifying leaks Page 0*9 Towing Page 0*9 Wheel changing Page 0-10 Weekly checks Introduction Page 0*12 Underbonnet check points Page 0»12 Engine oil level Page 0»13 Coolant level Page 0»13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0*14 Brake and clutch fluid level Page 0*15 Power steering fluid level Page 0*15 Screen washer fluid level Page 0*16 Wiper blades Page 0*16 Battery Page 0*17 Bulbs and fuses Page 0*17 Lubricants and fluids Page 0*18 Tyre pressures Page 0*18 MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Petrol engine Servicing specifications Page 1A«2 Maintenance schedule Page 1A*3 Maintenance procedures Page 1A»5 Diesel engine Servicing specifications Page 1B«2 Maintenance schedule Page 1B»3 Maintenance procedures Page 1B«5 expert22 http://rutracker.org

Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems 1.4 and 1.6 litre petrol engines in-car repair procedures Page 2A»1 2.0 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B»1 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures Page 2C»1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2D»1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3*1 Fuel and exhaust systems - petrol models Page 4A«1 Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel models Page 4B«1 Emission control systems Page 4C«1 Starting and charging systems Page 5A»1 Ignition system - petrol models Page 5B«1 Pre/post-heating system - diesel models Page 5C«1 Transmission Clutch Page 6*1 Manual transmission Page 7A«1 Automatic transmission Page 7B»1 Driveshafts Page 8»1 Brakes and suspension Braking system Page 9*1 Suspension and steering Page 10*1 Body equipment Bodywork and fittings Page 11*1 Body electrical system Page 12«1 Wiring diagrams Page 12«20 REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Page REF*1 Conversion factors Page REF»2 Buying spare parts Page REF»3 Vehicle identification numbers Page REF»3 General repair procedures Page REF»4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF»5 Tools and working facilities Page REF*6 MOT test checks Page REF»8 Fault finding Page REF»12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF»19 lncjcx expert22 nnn http://rutracker.orq Page REF»23

o .4 Advanced driving Many people see the words ‘advanced driving' and believe that it won’t interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own abilities. Nothing could be further from the truth. Advanced driving is straightforward safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we should all do every time we get behind the wheel. An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some seriously. Lives are ruined daily, usually because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95% of all accidents are due to human error, mostly driver failure. Sometimes we make genuine mistakes - everyone does. Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks. For many people, the process of ‘learning to drive' doesn't go much further than learning how to pass the driving test because of a common belief that good drivers are made by ‘experience’. Learning to drive by ‘experience’ teaches three driving skills: F Quick reactions. (Whoops, that was close!) C Good handling skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn). I- Reliance on vehicle technology. (Great stuff this ABS, stop in no distance even in the wet...) Drivers whose skills are ‘experience based’ generally have a lot of near misses and the odd accident. The results can be seen every day in our courts and our hospital casualty departments. Advanced drivers have learnt to control the risks by controlling the position and speed of their vehicle. They avoid accidents and near misses, even if the drivers around them make mistakes. The key skills of advanced driving are concentration, effective all-round observation, anticipation and planning. When good vehicle handling is added to these skills, all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a safe, methodical way, leaving nothing to chance. Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving, completely excluding anything that's not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines. It deserves our full attention. Observation means not just looking, but seeing and seeking out the information found in the driving environment. Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening, what you can reasonably expect to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is ‘suddenly’.) Planning is the link between seeing something and taking the appropriate action. For many drivers, planning is the missing link. If you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more, contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at www.iam.org.uk, phone 0208 996 9600, or write to IAM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack. Illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities.

Safety first! 0-5 Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards Scalding • Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Burning • Beware of bums from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. Never venture under a car is only supported by a jack. • Take care if loosening or tightening high- torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. Fire • Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil- soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400"C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads. Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply. Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. A Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results. Remember... DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system. • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DON’T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don't rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. • Don't use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury. • Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle, being worked on. Electric shock ^ • Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to r people with heart _r problems or a ^ pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the j ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

o *6 Introduction The Peugeot 307 was introduced into the UK in early 2001. At its launch, the 307 was offered with a choice of 1.4 (1360cc), 1.6 (1587cc) and 2.0 litre (1997cc) petrol engines or 1.4 litre (1398cc), 2.0 litre (1997cc) turbo- diesel engines. It was available in two body styles - a 3/5-door Hatchback, or a 5-door Estate. In March 2002 the SW (Sports Wagon) model was released, with three rows of passenger seats, and a full-length glass panel roof as the main distinguishing features. The engines fitted to the 307 range are all versions of the well-proven units which have appeared in many Peugeot/CitroSn vehicles over the years, with the exception of the 1.4 litre HDI engine, newly developed in a joint venture with the Ford Motor Co. The engine is mounted transversely at the front of vehicle, with the transmission mounted on its left-hand end. All engines are fitted with a manual transmission as standard (an automatic transmission is available on certain engines). All models have fully-independent front suspension, incorporating shock absorbers, coil springs and an anti-roll bar. The rear beam axle has a built-in anti-roll bar, with separate shock absorbers and coil spring. A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the range to suit most tastes, including central locking, electric windows and front, side and curtain airbags. An air conditioning system is available on all models. Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, the vehicle should prove reliable and very economical. The engine compartment is well-designed, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible. Your Peugeot 307 manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs It may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the 'left' and ‘right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat facing forward. Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Roadside repairs 0.7 The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn □ If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector Is in the P or N position. □ Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. □ Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Try jump starting (see next page) using another car. If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal □ Is there fuel in the tank? □ Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coils wiring connector. (Note that diesel engines don't normally suffer from damp.) B Check that the fuel/ignition system (as applicable) wiring connectors are securely connected (1.6 litre petrol model shown). A Remove the plastic cover and check the condition and security of the battery connections. - __ C Check that the alternator wiring connectors are securely connected. Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them withp i Check that all fuses are still in good a water dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp. U condition and none have blown.

o .8 Roadside repairs Jump starting When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: ✓ Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. ✓ Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off. ✓ Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case. ✓ Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. ✓ If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. ✓ Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission). HAYNES Jump starting will get you out , i of trouble, but you must correct iHllUT whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: t The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. 2 The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). 3 The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out). Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery. Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive- belts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads In the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

Roadside repairs 0.9 Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay. especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, A Identifying leaks The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running. HAYNES HilUT Oil from filter ...or from the base of the oil filter. Brake fluid A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid. Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: □ Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. □ Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights work. □ The towing eye is kept inside the spare wheel (see Wheel changing) on Hatchback models, and behind the right-hand side luggage compartment trim panel on Estates. To fit the eye, unclip the access cover from the relevant bumper and screw the eye firmly into position. □ Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. Caution: On models with automatic transmission, do not tow the car at speeds in excess of 30 mph (50 kph) or for a distance greater than 30 miles (50 km). If towing speeds/distances are to exceed these limits, then the car must be towed with its front wheels off the ground. □ Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. □ On models with power steering, greater- than-usual steering effort will also be required. □ The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. □ Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. □ Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at it inr’inns Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. Sump oil oil may leak from the drain plug... Antifreeze Gearbox oil inboard ends of the driveshafts. Power steering fluid Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

Peugeot 307 Full Workshop Service and Repair Manual

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