2001 PEUGEOT 306 CABRIOLET Service and Repair Manual

1 Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Clutch pedal stroke adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Driveshaft bellows check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Emissions control systems check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Front brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Fuel filter renewal - fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Handbrake check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Ignition system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Lock and hinge check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Manual transmission oil renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Rear brake pad condition check - models with rear disc brakes . . . 14 Rear brake shoe check - models with rear drum brakes . . . . . . . . . 13 Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Throttle and choke cable lubrication and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . . 6 1•1 Contents Easy, suitable for novice with little experience Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience Fairly difficult, suitable for competent DIY mechanic Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional Degrees of difficulty 5 4 3 2 1

1•2 Servicing Specifications Lubricants and fluids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to end of “Weekly checks” Capacities Engine oil XV and XW series engines (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres XY and XU series engines (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 litres TU series engines (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres Cooling system XV8, XW7, TU9 and TU3 series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 litres XY7 and XY8 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 litres XU engines (except automatic transmission models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.6 litres XU engines (automatic transmission models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.7 litres TU1 series engine (except Van models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres TU1 series engine (Van models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 litres Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres Automatic transmission From dry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 litres Drain and refill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.4 litres Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 litres Engine Oil filter: XV, XW and XY series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C204 XU and TU series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion F104 Cooling system Antifreeze mixture: Protection down to - 15ºC (5ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27% antifreeze Protection down to - 35ºC (- 31ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50% antifreeze Note: Refer to Chapter 3 for further details. Fuel system Air cleaner filter element: Pre-1988 carburettor engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W138 1988 onward carburettor engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U401 Fuel injection engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W175 Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L205 Idle speed and mixture CO content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 4A, 4B and 4C Specifications Ignition system Spark plugs: XV8, XW7 and XY7 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or S281YC* XY8 and XU5J engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion S7YCC or S279YC* XU51C engines (up to 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion S9YCC or S281YC* XU51C engines (from 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC or C9YCX* XU5JA engines (up to 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion S7YCC or S279YC* XU5JA (from 1988), XU5JA/K, XU9JA, XU9JA/K, XU9JA/Z and XU9JA/L engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or C7YCX* TU9 series, TU1 series, TU3 and TU3A engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC or C9YCX* TU3S engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or C7YCX* *Peugeot recommendation Spark plug electrode gap** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 to 0.8 mm **The spark plug electrode gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations. Brakes Front brake pad minimum lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm Rear brake shoe minimum lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm Rear brake pad minimum lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Weekly checks” Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13 Manual transmission drain/filler plugs BE1 and BE3 transmissions: Main gearbox drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Final drive drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22 MA transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 19

Maintenance schedule 1•3 1 Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly m Refer to “Weekly checks”. Every 36 000 miles (58 000 km) or 3 years - whichever comes sooner In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following: m Renew the timing belt (Section 31). Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 72 000 miles (120 000 km), It is strongly recommended that the timing belt renewal interval is halved to 36 000 miles (60 000 km) on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie. mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks. Every 6000 miles (9000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes sooner In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following: m Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)*. m Check the condition of the front brake pads, and renew if necessary (Section 4). m Check the automatic transmission fluid level and top-up if necessary (Section 5). Note: Renewal of the engine oil filter at this service interval is only necessary on models fitted with the XU9J1/L engine and automatic transmission. On all other models, oil filter renewal is recommended at every second oil change (ie 12 000 miles/12 months). Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km) or 4 years - whichever comes sooner m Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models (Section 32). Every 12 000 miles (18 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following: m Check all underbonnet components and hoses for fluid leaks (Section 6). m Renew the spark plugs (Section 7). m Check, adjust and lubricate the throttle and choke cables (Section 8). m Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt, and renew if necessary (Section 9). m Check the clutch pedal stroke adjustment (Section 10). m Check the condition of the seat belts (Section 11). m Lubricate the locks and hinges (Section 12). m Check the condition of the rear brake shoes and renew if necessary - rear drum brake models (Section 13). m Check the condition of the rear brake pads and renew if necessary - rear disc brake models (Section 14). m Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 15). m Inspect the underbody and the brake hydraulic pipes and hoses (Section 16). m Check the condition of the fuel lines (Section 16). m Check the condition and security of the exhaust system (Section 17). m Check the condition of the exterior trim and paintwork (Section 18). m Check the headlight beam alignment (Section 19). m Check the operation of the air conditioning system (Section 20). Every 72 000 miles (120 000 km) In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following: m Renew the timing belt (Section 31). Note: This is the interval recommended by Peugeot, but we recommend that the belt is changed more frequently, at 36 000 miles (60 000 km) - see above Every 24 000 miles (36 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes sooner In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following: m Check the manual transmission oil level, and top-up if necessary (Section 21). m Renew the manual transmission oil (pre-1988 BE1 transmissions only) (Section 22). m Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 23). m Check the condition of the driveshaft bellows (Section 24). m Check the steering and suspension components for condition and security (Section 25). m Renew the air cleaner filter element (Section 26). m Check the ignition system (Section 27). m Check the idle speed and mixture adjustment (Section 28). m Check the condition of the emissions control system hoses and components (Section 29). m Carry out a road test (Section 30). Every 2 years (regardless of mileage) m Renew the coolant (Section 33). m Renew the brake fluid (Section 34). The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are the average maintenance intervals recommended for vehicles driven daily under normal conditions. Obviously some variation of these intervals may be expected depending on territory of use, and conditions encountered. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle. If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

1•4 Maintenance - component location Underbonnet view of a 1360 cc GT model (XY8 series engine) 1 Right-hand front engine mounting 2 Jack 3 Drivebelt 4 Oil filter 5 Bottom hose 6 Water pump 7 Throttle cable 8 Fuel pump 9 Brake master cylinder 10 Brake fluid reservoir filler cap 11 Vehicle identification plate 12 Choke cable 13 Heater hose 14 Oil filler cap/crankcase ventilation filter 15 Windscreen wiper arm 16 Hydraulic brake lines 17 Cooling fan motor resistor 18 Front suspension shock absorber top mounting nut 19 Ignition coil cover 20 Distributor 21 Bottom hose 22 Clutch release fork 23 Clutch housing 24 Washer reservoir 25 Battery 26 Ignition timing aperture 27 Diagnostic socket 28 Radiator filler cap 29 Air cleaner 30 Bonnet lock 31 Oil pressure switch 32 Alternator 33 Cooling system expansion bottle

Maintenance - component location 1•5 1 Underbonnet view of a 1360 cc XS model (TU series engine) 1 Brake fluid reservoir filler cap 2 Brake master cylinder 3 Brake vacuum servo unit 4 Servo vacuum hose 5 Cooling system bleed screw 6 Air cleaner cover 7 Fuel pump 8 Cooling system expansion bottle 9 Fuel filter 10 Washer fluid reservoir 11 Battery 12 Air temperature control unit 13 Auxiliary fusebox 14 Radiator filler cap 15 Ignition coil 16 Bonnet lock 17 Engine oil filler cap 18 Exhaust manifold hot air shroud 19 Alternator 20 Engine oil level dipstick 21 Inlet manifold 22 Right-hand engine mounting

1•6 Maintenance - component location Front underside view of a 1360 cc GT model 1 Bottom hose 2 Reverse lamp switch 3 Engine/transmission oil drain plug 4 Radiator 5 Gear linkage 6 Clutch housing and transfer gear assembly 7 Washer reservoir 8 Disc caliper 9 Lower suspension arm 10 Anti-roll bar 11 Track rod 12 Guide bar 13 Exhaust front pipe 14 Fuel feed and return pipes 15 Hydraulic brake lines 16 Subframe 17 Driveshaft 18 Front towing eye

Maintenance - component location 1•7 1 Rear underside view of a 1360 cc GT model 1 Exhaust front pipe 2 Handbrake cables 3 Heatshield 4 Rear suspension cross-tube 5 Brake hydraulic flexible hose 6 Rear shock absorber 7 Trailing arm 8 Side-member 9 Exhaust rubber mounting 10 Exhaust rear silencer 11 Spare wheel 12 Rear towing eye 13 Torsion bars 14 Fuel tank

1 Introduction This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. This Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust should be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. The first step of this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist or a dealer service department. 2 Intensive maintenance 1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be some times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to Chapter 2A, B or C) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work (Chapter 2D) is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine: Primary operations a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See “Weekly checks”). b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See “Weekly checks”). c) Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9). d) Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads (Section 27). e) Renew the spark plugs (Section 7). f) Check the condition of the air cleaner filter element and renew if necessary (Section 26). g) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models (Section 32). h) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 6). 5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following operations: Secondary operations All the items listed under “Primary operations”, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B). c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, B and C). d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm (Section 27). e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 27). 3 Engine oil and filter renewal 1 Note: A suitable square-section wrench may be required to undo the sump drain plug on some models. These wrenches can be obtained from most motor factors or your Peugeot dealer. 1 Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home mechanic can give the engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure. You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills. The oil should preferably be changed when the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, just after a run; warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands. (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain point is at the lowest point. 3 Position the draining container under the drain plug, and unscrew the plug. On some models, a square-section wrench may be needed to slacken the plug (see illustration). If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint). 1•8 Maintenance procedures 3.3 Slackening the sump drain plug with a square section wrench Every 6000 miles or 6 months Keep the drain plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases, move it away sharply so that the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve!

4 Allow the oil to drain into the container, and check the condition of the plug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn or damaged. 5 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle; when the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the drain plug and its threads in the sump and refit the plug, tightening it securely. 6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front side of the cylinder block. On XV, XW and XY series engines, place some rag around the filter otherwise the oil that runs out as the filter is unscrewed will make a mess all over the front of the engine. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration) . Empty the oil in the old filter into the container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. 10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable). 11 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the rocker/cylinder head cover or oil filler/breather neck (as applicable). Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and fluids, and capacities”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1.5 litres will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter (if fitted) before the pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the preliminary Sections of this manual. 4 Front brake pad check 1 1 Jack up the front of the vehicle, and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 For better access to the brake calipers, remove the roadwheels. 3 If any of the pads friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed as a set. 4 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further information. 5 Automatic transmission fluid level check 1 1 Take the vehicle on a short journey, to warm the transmission up to normal operating temperature, then park the vehicle on level ground. The fluid level is checked using the dipstick located at the front of the engine compartment, directly in front of the engine (see illustration). The dipstick top is brightly- coloured for easy identification. 2 With the engine idling and the selector lever in the “P” (Park) position, withdraw the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the fluid from its end with a clean rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick back into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it once more. Note the fluid level on the end of the dipstick; it should be between the upper and lower marks (see illustration). 3 If topping-up is necessary, add the required quantity of the specified fluid to the transmission via the dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine- mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that no foreign matter enters the transmission. Note: Never overfill the transmission so that the fluid level is above the upper mark. 4 After topping-up, take the vehicle on a short run to distribute the fresh fluid, then recheck the level again, topping-up if necessary. 5 Always maintain the level between the two dipstick marks. If the level is allowed to fall below the lower mark, fluid starvation may result, which could lead to severe transmission damage. 6 Frequent need for topping-up indicates that there is a leak, which should be found and corrected before it becomes serious. Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•9 1 5.2 Automatic fluid dipstick lower (a) and upper (b) fluid level markings For a quick check, the thickness of the friction material on each brake pad can be measured through the aperture in the caliper body 3.7 Using an oil filter removal tool to slacken the filter 5.1 Withdrawing the automatic transmission fluid dipstick

6 Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition 1 Warning: Renewal of any air conditioning hoses (where fitted) must be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning specialist who has the equipment to depressurise the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurised. General 1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smaller- diameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that are cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed (see Haynes Hint). 3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. If the spring clamps that are used to secure some of the hoses appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks. 4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with screw type clips. Where screw type clips are used, check to be sure they haven’t slackened, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps or screw type clips aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak. 5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath will soon show any leaks; ignore the puddle of water which will be left if the air conditioning system is in use. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the exact source of the leak can be identified. Vacuum hoses 6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be numbered or colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 9 A small piece of vacuum hose can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc. Fuel hoses Warning: Before carrying out the following operation, refer to the precautions given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed. 10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the carburettor or fuel rail. 11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all spring- type clamps with screw clips whenever a hose is replaced. Metal lines 13 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line. 14 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration. 15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system. 7 Spark plug renewal 2 1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine (a suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter). If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads “1” to “4”, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the transmission end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 3 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the spark plug recesses using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping into the cylinders. 4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep socket and extension bar (see illustration). 1•10 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 7.4 Tools required for spark plug removal, gap adjustment and refitting A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak

2001 PEUGEOT 306 CABRIOLET Service and Repair Manual

You're Reading a Preview

Recently Viewed