1990-1999 Vauxhall Astra Opel Kadett Service & Repair Manual

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Battery check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Brake pad, caliper and disc check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Carburettor fuel inlet filter cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Clutch adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Driveshaft CV joint and gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Fuel filter renewal - fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Fuel pump filter cleaning - carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Headlamp aim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Hinge and lock lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Idle speed and mixture adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Ignition system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Rear brake shoe, wheel cylinder and drum check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Rear wheel bearing adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Roadwheel bolt tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Vauxhall Astra/Belmont maintenance schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle. If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended. When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory- authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty. 1•1 Easy, suitable for novice with little experience Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience Fairly difficult, suitable for competent DIY mechanic Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional Degrees of difficulty Contents 1 1 Vauxhall Astra/Belmont maintenance schedule

1•2 Maintenance schedule Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 6 months, whichever comes first m Renew the engine oil and filter - early (pre-1987) models (Section 6) Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first m Renew the engine oil and filter - later (1987-on) models (Section 6) m Renew the spark plugs (Section 7) m Check and adjust the valve clearances - 1.2 litre models (Chapter 2A) m Check all underbonnet and underbody components, pipes and hoses for leaks (Section 8) m Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt, and renew if necessary (Section 9) m Check the ignition system components and renew the contact breaker points (Section 10) m Check idle speed and mixture adjustments (Section 11) m Clean the fuel pump filter (carburettor models) (Section 12) m Check the throttle cable adjustment (Chapter 4A or 4B) m Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 13) m Check the operation of the horn, all lights, and the wipers and washers (Section 14) m Check the condition of the wiper blades (Section 15) m Check the tightness of the roadwheel bolts (Section 16) m Check the condition of the front, and rear (where fitted) brake pads (renew if necessary), and the calipers and discs (Section 17) m Check the rear wheel bearings adjustment (Section 18) m Check the handbrake adjustment (Section 19) m Check the driveshaft CV joints and gaiters for condition (Section 20) m Lubricate locks and hinges (Section 21) m Check the exhaust system for condition and security (Section 22) m Road test the vehicle (Section 23) Every 2 years (regardless of mileage) In addition to all the relevant items listed previously, carry out the following: m Renew the coolant (Section 32) Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 4 years, whichever comes first In addition to all the relevant items listed previously, carry out the following: m Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 33) m Renew the camshaft toothed belt - 1.3, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre 8-valve engines (Chapter 2B), 2.0 litre 16-valve engines (Chapter 2C) Every 54 000 miles (90 000 km) or 3 years, whichever comes first In addition to all the relevant items listed previously, carry out the following: m Renew the braking system seals and hose (Chapter 9) Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first In addition to all the items listed previously, carry out the following: m Renew the air cleaner filter element (Section 24) m Renew the fuel filter (fuel injection models) (Section 25) m Clean the carburettor fuel inlet filter (Section 26) m Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 27) m Check the clutch adjustment (Section 28) m Check the condition of the rear brake shoes (renew if necessary), wheel cylinders and drums (Section 29) m Renew the brake fluid (Section 30) m Check the headlamp alignment (Section 31) Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly m See Weekly checks

Maintenance - component location 1•3 1 1 Wiper motor 2 Heater blower motor 3 Heater blower motor resistor 4 Windscreen washer tube 5 Screen washer reservoir 6 Suspension turrets 7 Coolant expansion tank 8 Ignition coil 9 Battery 10 Coolant hose 11 Radiator cooling fan 12 Distributor cover 13 Engine oil filler 14 Bonnet catch 15 Radiator 16 VIN plate 17 Engine breather 18 Air cleaner hot air pick-up 19 Thermostat housing 20 Fuel hoses 21 Fuel pump 22 Alternator 23 Accelerator cable 24 Carburettor 25 Choke cable 26 Servo non-return valve 27 Steering rack bellows 28 Air cleaner breather hose 29 Brake fluid reservoir 30 Brake servo Underbonnet view of an early 1.6 litre model (air cleaner removed for clarity)

1•4 Maintenance - component location 1 Screen washer reservoir 2 Headlamp washer filler cap 3 Headlamp washer relay and fuse 4 Suspension turrets 5 Coolant expansion tank filler 6 Control relay (fuel injection system) 7 Ignition coil 8 Horn 9 Battery 10 Coolant hose 11 Radiator fan 12 Distributor 13 Engine oil filler 14 Bonnet catch 15 Radiator 16 VIN plate 17 Engine breather 18 Thermostat housing 19 Air cleaner 20 Airflow meter 21 Breather hose 22 Throttle valve housing 23 Fuel rail 24 Fuel pressure regulator 25 Servo non return valve 26 Steering rack bellows 27 Accelerator cable 28 Brake fluid reservoir 29 Brake servo Underbonnet view of an early 1.8 litre model

Maintenance - component location 1•5 1 1 Radiator top hose 2 Air cleaner 3 Suspension turrets 4 Coolant filler cap 5 Brake fluid reservoir 6 Air mass meter 7 Fuel pressure regulator 8 Breather hoses 9 Throttle cable 10 Engine oil filler cap 11 Pre-volume chamber 12 Brake servo non-return valve 13 Power steering hoses 14 Windscreen washer reservoir 15 Headlamp washer relay 16 ABS hydraulic unit 17 ABS surge arrester relay 18 Fuel injection control relay 19 Ignition coil 20 Battery 21 Power steering fluid reservoir 22 Distributor 23 Radiator 24 Vehicle identification plate 25 Horn Underbonnet view of a 2.0 litre 16-valve model

1•6 Maintenance - component location 1 Control arm rear bush 2 Control arm 3 Anti-roll bar link 4 Driveshaft damper weight 5 Engine oil filter 6 Oil cooler hose 7 Air induction trunking 8 Radiator 9 Exhaust downpipes 10 Sump drain plug 11 Radiator fan 12 Gearbox sump 13 Driveshaft bellows 14 Brake hose 15 Steering balljoint attachment 16 Engine/transmission rear mounting 17 Gearchange tube 18 Exhaust pipe 19 Brake pipe 20 Brake and fuel pipes Front underbody view of a 1.8 litre model - other models similar

Maintenance - introduction 1•7 1 1 Centre silencer 2 Handbrake adjuster 3 Handbrake cables 4 Fuel tank 5 Brake pipe 6 Brake and fuel pipes 7 Brake hoses 8 Axle beam 9 Axle mountings 10 Spring 11 Shock absorber mounting 12 Fuel filler pipe 13 Fuel gauge sender/fuel tank outlet 14 Fuel tank breather 15 Fuel filter* 16 Fuel pressure regulator* 17 Fuel pump* 18 Towing eye 19 Rear silencer 20 Rear brake pipes *Fuel injection models only Rear underbody view of a 1.8 litre model - other models similar General information This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by sections dealing specifically with each task on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing of your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department. Intensive maintenance If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (Chapter 2) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If for example a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work (Chapter 2) is carried out first. 2 Introduction

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain more easily, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point. The drain plug is located at the rear of the sump. 3 Remove the oil filler cap from the camshaft cover (twist it through a quarter-turn anti- clockwise and withdraw it). 4 Using a spanner, or preferably a socket and bar, slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see illustration). Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply, so that the stream of oil from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve! 5 Allow some time for the oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 6 After all the oil has drained, wipe the drain plug and the sealing washer with a clean rag. Examine the condition of the sealing washer, and renew it if it shows signs of scoring or other damage which may prevent an oil-tight seal. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug complete with the washer. Tighten the plug securely, preferably to the specified torque, using a torque wrench. 7 The oil filter is located at the right-hand end of the engine. 8 Move the container into position under the oil filter. 9 Use an oil filter removal tool to slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration) . Empty the oil from the old filter into the container. 10 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 11 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw the filter into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. 12 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then, if applicable, lower the vehicle to the ground. 13 Fill the engine through the filler hole in the camshaft cover, using the correct grade and type of oil (refer to Section 3 for details of topping-up). Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to drain into the sump. Continue to add oil, a small quantity at a time, until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding a further 1.0 litre (approx.) will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. 14 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the low oil pressure warning light goes out when 6 Engine oil and filter renewal 1•8 Maintenance procedures 6.4 Removing the sump drain plug 6.9 Using an oil filter removal tool to unscrew the oil filter Every 250 miles or weekly The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine: Primary operations a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (Section 4). b) Check all the engine-related fluids (Section 3). c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 7). e) Inspect the ignition system components (Section 10). f)| Inspect the ignition HT leads (Section 10). g) Check the condition of the air filter, and renew if necessary (Section 24). h) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 8). If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations: Secondary operations All items listed under “Primary operations”, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A). b) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A or 4B). c) Renew the air filter (Section 24). d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm (Section 10). e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 10). See “Weekly checks” See “Weekly checks” See “Weekly checks” 5 Tyre checks 4 Battery check 3 Fluid level checks Every 9000 miles

the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the new oil filter and the engine oil galleries before the pressure builds up. 15 Stop the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures”. 1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine, the suitable type being specified at the end of this Chapter. If the correct type of plug is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled renewal intervals, except for adjustment of their gaps. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 To remove the plugs, first open the bonnet. On 1.2 litre models remove the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4A. On 2.0 litre 16-valve engines undo the retaining screws and remove the spark plug lead cover from the engine. 3 Mark the HT leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is nearest the timing belt end of the engine). Pull the HT leads from the plugs by gripping the end connectors, not the leads, otherwise the lead connections may be fractured. 4 It is advisable to remove any dirt from the spark plug recesses using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air, before removing the plugs, to prevent the dirt dropping into the cylinders. 5 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug spanner, a suitable box spanner, or a deep socket and extension bar (see illustration). Keep the socket in alignment with the spark plugs, otherwise if it is forcibly moved to either side, the porcelain top of the spark plug may be broken off. As each plug is removed, examine it as follows. 6 Examination of the spark plugs will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, while a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). 7 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the idle mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 8 If the insulator nose is covered with light- tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 9 The spark plug gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. For the best results, the spark plug gap should be set in accordance with the Specifications at the end of this Chapter. 10 To set the spark plug gap, measure the gap between the electrodes with a feeler blade, and then bend open, or close, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustrations) . The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. 11 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops (see illustration). 12 Before fitting the new spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves on the top of the plug are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean. 13 Screw in the spark plugs by hand where possible, then tighten them to the specified torque. Take extra care to enter the plug threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of light alloy construction. 14 Reconnect the HT leads in their correct order. On 1.2 litre models refit the air cleaner (Chapter 4A) and on 2.0 litre 16-valve models, refit the spark plug lead cover. 7 Spark plug renewal Every 9000 miles 1•9 1 Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free. 7.10a Measuring a spark plug electrode gap using a feeler blade 7.5 Removing a spark plug - 1.6 litre engine shown 7.10b Measuring a spark plug electrode gap using a wire gauge 7.11 Adjusting a spark plug electrode gap using a special tool It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross- threading them. To avoid this, fit a short length of 5/16-inch internal diameter hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the aluminium cylinder head.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected; what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place, and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems in the future. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. If wire-type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with screw-type clips. 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes, a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes. Alternator drivebelt Checking and adjustment 1 Correct tensioning of the auxiliary drivebelt will ensure that it has a long life. Beware, however, of overtightening, as this can cause excessive wear in the alternator. 2 The belt should be inspected along its entire length, and if it is found to be worn, frayed or cracked, it should be renewed as a precaution against breakage in service. It is advisable to carry a spare drivebelt of the correct type in the vehicle at all times. 3 Although special tools are available for measuring the belt tension, a good approximation can be achieved if the belt is tensioned so that there is approximately 13 mm of free movement under firm thumb pressure at the mid-point of the longest run between pulleys. If in doubt, err on the slack side, as an excessively-tight belt may cause damage to the alternator or other components. 4 If adjustment is required, loosen the alternator upper mounting nut and bolt - use two spanners, one to counterhold the bolt. Lever the alternator away from the engine using a wooden lever at the mounting bracket until the correct tension is achieved, then tighten the bolt securing the adjuster bracket, and the alternator mounting nuts and bolts. On no account lever at the free end of the alternator, as serious internal damage could be caused to the alternator. Removal, renewal and refitting 5 To remove the belt, simply loosen the mounting nuts and bolts, and the bolt securing the adjuster bracket, as described previously, and slacken the belt sufficiently to slip it from the pulleys. On models with power steering it will first be necessary to remove the power steering pump drivebelt as described below. 6 Refit the belt, and tension it as described previously. Note that when a new belt has been fitted it will probably stretch slightly to start with and the tension should be rechecked, and if necessary adjusted, after about 5 minutes running. Power steering pump drivebelt Checking and adjustment 7 Refer to the information given in paragraphs 1 to 3, noting that there should be approximately 8 mm of free movement in the belt. 8 If adjustment is required, slacken the adjuster bolt locknut (situated on the base of the pump) and rotate the adjuster nut as necessary to tension the belt. Once the belt tension is correct, securely tighten the locknut. Removal, renewal and refitting 9 To remove the belt, simply loosen the locknut and fully slacken the adjuster nut sufficiently to slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 10 Refit the belt, and tension it as described previously. Note that when a new belt has been fitted it will probably stretch slightly to start with and the tension should be rechecked, and if necessary adjusted, after about 5 minutes running. Alternator/power steering pump drivebelt - later 1.6 litre models Checking and adjustment 11 From March 1987 onwards, a single drivebelt is used for the alternator and power steering pump on 1.6 litre engines. The drivebelt is of the ribbed type and runs at a higher tension than the previous (V) belt. 12 To set the tension accurately, make up or obtain an adapter as shown (see illustration). 13 Slacken the alternator pivot and adjusting strap bolts and fit the adapter. Using a torque wrench apply a load of 55 Nm (40 lbf ft) for a new belt, or 50 Nm (37 lbf ft) for an old belt. Keep the tension applied and securely tighten the alternator bolts. Removal, renewal and refitting 14 To remove the belt, simply loosen the alternator pivot and strap bolts and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 9 Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal 8 Hose and fluid leak check 1•10 Every 9000 miles 9.12 Adapter KM-612 used for setting drivebelt tension on later 1.6 litre models A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak.

You're Reading a Preview

1990-1999 Vauxhall Astra Opel Kadett Service & Repair Manual

Description

Reviews

Q&A

Recently Viewed