2003 Citroen Xsara Picasso Service & Repair Manual

Citroen Xsara Picasso Service and Repair Manual John S. Mead MISTC Models covered (3944 - 336 - 2aji ) All Citroen Xsara Picasso MPV models with petrol and diesel engines 1.6 litre (1587cc) and 1.8 litre (1749cc) petrol engines 2.0 litre (1997cc) turbo-diesel engines © Haynes Publishing 2005 fg h !jE KL A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. ISBN 1 85960 944 9 Printed in the USA Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes 4, Rue de I'Abreuvoir 92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR CITROEN XSARA PICASSO Safety first! Page 0*5 Introduction to the Citroen Xsara Picasso Page 0*6 Roadside repairs If your car won’t start Page 0*7 Jump starting Page 0-7 Wheel changing Page 0*8 Identifying leaks Page 0*9 Towing Page 0*9 Weekly checks Introduction Page 0*10 Underbonnet check points Page 0*10 Engine oil level Page 0*11 Power steering fluid level Page 0*12 Coolant level Page 0*12 Screen washer fluid level Page 0*13 Brake and clutch fluid level . .. , Page 0*13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0*14 Battery Page 0*15 Electrical systems Page 0*15 Wiper blades Page 0*16 Lubricants and fluids Page 0*17 Tyre pressures Page 0*18 MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Citroen Xsara Picasso petrol engine models Page 1A-1 Servicing specifications Page 1A-2 Maintenance schedule Page 1A-6 Maintenance procedures Page 1A-7 Citroen Xsara Picasso diesel engine models Page IB-1 Servicing specifications Page IB-2 Maintenance schedule 'Page IB-6 Maintenance procedures Page IB-7 Illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities.

Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems TU series petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A*1 EW series petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B*1 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures Page 2C*1 Petrol engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2D*1 Diesel engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2E*1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3*1 Fuel/exhaust systems - petrol engines Page 4A*1 Fuel/exhaust systems - diesel engines Page 4B*1 Emission control systems Page 4C*1 Starting and charging systems Page 5A*1 Ignition system (petrol engines) Page 5B*1 Preheating system (diesel engines) Page 5C*1 Transmission Clutch Page 6*1 Manual transmission Page 7*1 Driveshafts Page 8*1 Brakes, suspension and steering Braking system Page 9*1 Suspension and steering Page 10*1 Body equipment Bodywork and fittings Page 11*1 Body electrical systems Page 12*1 Wiring diagrams Page 12*15 REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Page REF*1 Conversion factors Page REF*2 Buying spare parts Page REF*3 Vehicle identification Page REF*4 General repair procedures ‘ Page REF*5 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF*6 Disconnecting the battery Page REF*7 Tools and working facilities Page REF*8 MOT test checks Page REF*10 Fault finding Page REF*14 Glossary of technical terms Page REF*23 Index Page REF*28

o .4 Introduction Advanced driving Many people see the words ‘advanced driving’ and believe that it won’t interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own abilities. Nothing could be further from the truth. Advanced driving is straightforward safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we should all do every time we get behind the wheel. An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some seriously. Lives are ruined daily, usually because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95% of all accidents are due to human error, mostly driver failure. Sometimes we make genuine mistakes - everyone does. Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks. For many people, the process of ‘learning to drive’ doesn’t go much further than learning how to pass the driving test because of a common belief that good drivers are made by ‘experience’. Learning to drive by ‘experience’ teaches three driving skills: □ Quick reactions. (Whoops, that was close!) □ Good handling skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn). □ Reliance on vehicle technology. (Great stuff this ABS, stop in no distance even in the wet...) Drivers whose skills are ‘experience based’ generally have a lot of near misses and the odd accident. The results can be seen every day in our courts and our hospital casualty departments. Advanced drivers have learnt to control the risks by controlling the position and speed of their vehicle. They avoid accidents and near misses, even if the drivers around them make mistakes. The key skills of advanced driving are concentration, effective all-round observation, anticipation and planning. When good vehicle handling is added to these skills, all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a safe, methodical way, leaving nothing to chance. Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving, completely excluding anything that’s not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines. It deserves our full attention. Observation means not just looking, but seeing and seeking out the information found in the driving environment. Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening, what you can reasonably expect to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is ‘suddenly’.) Planning is the link between seeing something and taking the appropriate action. For many drivers, planning is the missing link. If you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more, contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at www.iam.org.uk, phone 0208 996 9600, or write to 1AM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack.

Safety first! 0.5 Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards Scalding • Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Burning • Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. • Take care if loosening or tightening high- torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. Fire • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil- soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Asbestos • Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. Electric shock • Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with f'-r the engine running or ' j the ignition switched on. • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. Remember... DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use' barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system. • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads. Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply. Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. A Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results. DON’T • Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. • Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury. • Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

o .6 Introduction The Citroen Xsara Picasso was launched in June 2000 as a five-door mini-MPV version of the Citroen Xsara. The Picasso range is available with three engine options comprising 1.6 litre (1587 cc) and 1.8 litre (1749 cc) petrol engines and 2.0 litre (1997 cc) high-pressure diesel injection (HDi) engine. The engines are all of four-cylinder single- or double-overhead camshaft design, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with a five-speed manual transmission mounted on the left-hand side. All models have fully-independent front suspension. The rear suspension is semi-independent, with torsion bars and trailing arms. A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the Xsara Picasso range to suit most tastes, including power steering, central locking, engine immobiliser, electric windows, electric sunroof, and air bags. An anti-lock braking system and air conditioning system are available as standard or optional equipment depending on model. Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, the Citroen Xsara Picasso should prove reliable and very economical. The engine compartment is well- designed, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible. Your Citroen Xsara Picasso Manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the ‘left’ and ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat facing forward. Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this Manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Roadside repairs 0.7 The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. Car won’t start Starter motor doesn’t turn Starter motor turns as normal □ Lift the front passenger’s seat, take off the battery cover and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. □ Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see below) using a friend’s car. □ Is there fuel in the tank? □ Remove the engine cover (where fitted) and spray all visible electrical connectors with a water-dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp. • Jump starting When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: ✓ Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. ✓ Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off. ✓ Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case. ✓ Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. ✓ If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. ✓ Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission). Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: at The battery has been drained by i repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. 2 The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). 3 The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out). HAYNES HiHIT Lift up the cover over the flat battery’s positive (+) cable terminal box located behind the air cleaner and connect one end of the red jump lead to the terminal stud. 1 Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or any other moving parts of the engine. F S Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Disconnect the I jump leads in the reverse order of I connection.

o .8 Roadside repairs Wheel changing A Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. Preparation □ When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. □ Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. Changing the wheel I Lift up the lid on the under floor storage box behind the front seat and take out the wheelbrace. 4 Open the box and take out the jack. Use the chock supplied to chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed. 7 Position the space-saver spare wheel and fit the wheel bolts. Tighten the bolts moderately with the wheelbrace, then lower the car to the ground. Tighten the wheel bolts in a diagonal sequence, then secure the punctured wheel in the spare wheel cradle. □ If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. □ Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear. □ Use hazard warning lights if necessary. □ If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the foot of the jack. 2 From inside the boot area, use the wheelbrace to lower the spare wheel cradle. 3 Slide the spare wheel and tool kit out from the underside of the car. Slacken each wheel bolt by a half turn. 6 Locate the jack below the reinforced jacking point and on firm ground (don’t jack the car at any other point on the sill). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground, remove the bolts and wheel trim (where applicable), then lift the wheel clear. Finally... □ Remove the wheel chocks. Stow the jack and tools in the appropriate locations in the car. □ Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the correct pressure. Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired, or renew it, as soon as possible. □ Don’t leave the spare wheel cradle empty and unsecured - it could drop onto the ground while the car is moving.

Roadside repairs 0.9 Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. A Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay. HAYNES The smell of a fluid leaking # from the car may provide a hint clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running. Sump oil Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... Oil from filter ...or from the base of the oil filter. Gearbox oil Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. Antifreeze Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. Brake fluid A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid. Power steering fluid Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack. Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long- distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: □ Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. □ Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. □ Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. These are located in or below the bumpers at the front and rear. □ Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. □ Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. □ Greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required. □ The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. □ Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. □ Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

o.io Weekly checks Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. These ‘Weekly checks’ require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example; □ Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. □ Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these. □ If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. □ If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example. Underbonnet check points 1.6 litre petrol Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap Coolant expansion tank Brake fluid reservoir Screen washer fluid reservoir Power steering fluid reservoir 1.8 litre petrol Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap Coolant expansion tank Brake fluid reservoir Screen washer fluid reservoir Power steering fluid reservoir

2003 Citroen Xsara Picasso Service & Repair Manual

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