1983-1994 Citroen BX 1.4L 1.6L 1.9L GTi 16V Service & Repair Manual

Citroën BX Service and Repair Manual Models covered Citroën BX Hatchback & Estate models with petrol engines (inc. GTi, 16 valve & special/limited editions) 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc Does not cover diesel engine variants or 4x4 models I M Coomber and Christopher Rogers © Haynes Publishing 1997 A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. ISBN 1 85960 190 1 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Printed by J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ ,England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes S.A. 147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige (908 - 336 - 1AA12) ABCDE FGHIJ KLMNO PQRST 1 2 3

LIVING WITH YOUR CITROEN BX Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5 Roadside Repairs Introduction Page 0•6 If your car won’t start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9 Towing Page 0•9 Weekly Checks Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine oil level Page 0•11 Coolant level Page 0•11 Hydraulic fluid level Page 0•12 Screen washer fluid level Page 0•12 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•13 Electrical systems Page 0•14 Battery Page 0•14 Wiper blades Page 0•15 Tyre pressures Page 0•15 Lubricants, fluids and capacities Page 0•16 MAINTENANCE Routine Maintenance and Servicing Servicing Specifications Page 1•2 Maintenance schedule Page 1•4 Maintenance procedures Page 1•8 Contents

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems 150 engine repair procedures Page 2A•1 171 and 159 engine repair procedures Page 2B•1 K1G engine repair procedures Page 2C•1 D6C engine repair procedures Page 2D•1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Bosch LE3 Jetronic injection Page 4B•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Motronic injection Page 4C•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Magneti Marelli injection Page 4D•1 Ignition system - carburettor models Page 5A•1 Ignition system - fuel injection models Page 5B•1 Starting and charging systems Page 5C•1 Transmission Clutch Page 6•1 Manual gearbox Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1 Brakes and Suspension Hydraulic system Page 9•1 Braking system Page 10•1 Suspension and steering Page 11•1 Body Equipment Bodywork and fittings Page 12•1 Body electrical systems Page 13•1 Wiring Diagrams Page 13•16 REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Page REF•1 Conversion factors Page REF•2 Buying spare parts Page REF•3 Vehicle Identification Page REF•3 General repair procedures Page REF•4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF•5 Tools and working facilities Page REF•6 MOT test checks Page REF•8 Fault finding Page REF•12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF•19 Index Page REF•23 Contents

The Citroën BX was introduced in France in October of 1982 and became available in the UK in September 1983. The original models available in the range were the BX, BX 14 E, BX 14 RE, BX 16 RS and BX 16 TRS. The types of engine, transmission and equipment fitted being dependent on the model and the body design being that of a Hatchback. For the 1985 model year, the BX 19 GT was made available for the driver requiring a higher performance model. Also in 1985, the BX Leader replaced the BX and BX 14 models, the Leader being fitted with the same engine and transmission as the BX 14. In the second half of 1985 the Estate was introduced, two versions being available, the BX 16 RS Estate and the BX 16 TRS Estate. Changes for the 1987 model year included the introduction of the BX 16 RE Hatchback, the BX 19 GTi (fuel injection and ABS braking), the BX 19 GTi 16v (16 valve engine) and the replacement for the BX 19 GT, the BX 19 TRS. Also, a BX 19 TRS Estate fitted with automatic transmission became available. The facia and instruments were modified on all models, with round instruments being used. Other aesthetic improvements were made to improve the external appearance of certain models. For the 1988 model year, all BX 14 models were equipped with the K1G engine with 2CA type 4 or 5-speed manual gearbox. For the 1989 model year, BX 16 and BX 19 models were equipped with the BE3 5-speed manual gearbox to replace the earlier BE1 5- speed type. In early 1990, BX 19 TZi Hatchback and Estate models became available, these being equipped with catalytic converters. In late 1992, BX 16 TXi catalytic converter equipped Hatchback and Estate models were added to the range. On all models, the engine and transmission is mounted transversely and drives the front wheels through two driveshafts. The transmission available (depending on model type) is a 4 or 5-speed manual gearbox or a 4-speed automatic unit. All models are extremely comfortable to ride in, thanks to the hydropneumatic suspension and luxurious interior trim. The unique design suspension is self-levelling and the ride height is maintained automatically over all road conditions. A ground clearance lever inside the car may be used to adjust the ride height when travelling over rough ground, this also makes changing a roadwheel much simpler. Your Citroën BX Manual The aim of this Manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The Manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, and to Duckhams Oils, who provided lubrication data. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of Citroën (UK) Limited and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who supplied some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this Manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given. 0•4 Introduction The Citroën BX Team Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included: Authors Ian Coomber Christopher Rogers Sub-editors Sophie Yar Carole Turk Editor & Page Make-up Steve Churchill Bob Jex Workshop manager Paul Buckland Photo Scans John Martin Paul Tanswell Steve Tanswell Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s reliability and preserve its resale value. Citroën BX 19 GTi Citroën BX 16 TRS

Safety first! 0•5 Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards Scalding • Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Burning • Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. • Take care if loosening or tightening high- torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. Fire • Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. Electric shock • Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on. • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil- soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400 0 C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads. Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply. Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results. Remember... DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system. • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. A few tips DON’T • Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance. • Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. • Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury. • Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Roadside repairs The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’. M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car. If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal M Is there fuel in the tank? M Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. Check that the HT lead connections at the distributor are clean and secure. A Check that the HT lead connections at the spark plugs are clean and secure. B Check that the HT and LT lead connections at the ignition coil are clean and secure. C Check the security and condition of the battery connections. D Check all wiring block connectors are clean and secure. E Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs 0•7 When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: 4 Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. 4 Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off. 4 Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. 4 If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. 4 Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission). Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: 1 The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. 2 The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). 3 The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out). Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery. Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. 1 2 3 4 Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive- belts or other moving parts of the engine. 5 Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. 6 Jump starting

0•8 Roadside repairs With the handbrake applied and engine set to idle, move ground clearance selector lever to maximum height position. Wheel changing Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles. Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. Finally... M Remove the wheel chocks. M Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. M Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible. Use the wheel brace to slightly loosen the bolts of the wheel to be removed. Locate the jack in the correct jacking point and raise the vehicle so that the wheel is clear of the ground. Undo and remove the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. Remove the spare wheel and jack. Turn the wheelbrace 6 to 8 turns to lower the spare wheel carrier. 1 2 3 4 Fit the spare wheel, nipping tight the bolts. Lower to the ground and tighten the bolts to correct torque setting. 7 Reset the ground clearance lever to normal driving position before using the vehicle. 8 5 6 Preparation M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. M Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. M Use hazard warning lights if necessary. M If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. M Apply the handbrake. M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this. M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack. Changing the wheel

Roadside repairs 0•9 When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. M Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission (Refer to the Warning on the right). M The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. M Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. M Remember that if the engine is not running, there will be no hydraulic pressure (Refer to the Warning on the right). Warning: BX, BX14 and Leader with manual gearbox and all automatic transmission models should be towed with the front wheels clear of the ground. If this is impossible, restrict towing speed to 30 MPH and distance to 30 miles maximum. Disregard of these instructions may cause transmission damage due to lack of lubrication. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. Once the reserve of hydraulic pressure has been exhausted, the footbrake will not work and the handbrake will have to be used instead. Power steering assistance (when applicable) will also be lost. Towing Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay. Identifying leaks The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running. Sump oil Gearbox oil Brake fluid Power steering fluid Oil from filter Antifreeze Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter. Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid. Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

0•10 Weekly checks There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example; M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. M Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these. M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example. Introduction § BX 16 RE All other models similar A Engine oil level dipstick (may be at front or rear of engine) B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant filler cap D Hydraulic fluid reservoir E Screen washer fluid reservoir F Battery Underbonnet check points

1983-1994 Citroen BX 1.4L 1.6L 1.9L GTi 16V Service & Repair Manual

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