2005 PARK AVENUE Service and Repair Manual

Replacing Your Windshield Wipers Although we swear to ourselves not to wait until the next hurricane, rain storm, or blizzard to realize we need new wipers, we usually do. Inevitably, we're just trying to get home from a long day at the office when a sudden downpour starts; we fire up the wipers and they can't clear the water. There we are squinting through the blurry windshield trying to make out the radar blip of distant taillights, cursing ourselves for not changing the wipers the last time we said we were going to. If you get your oil changed regularly, you're probably in good shape. Service stations check the wipers for you. But, if you're a do-it-yourselfer, then you just might let the wipers deteriorate to rubber bits until the day you need them. To prevent this frustration, the next time you're at a gas station or auto parts store, pick up a couple of replacements to have on hand. Depending on what part of the county you are in, the rubber wiper portions generally only last six months to one year. And just because you live in a region country where it barely drips rain, do not be misled into thinking your wipers are immortal. They aren't. The sun is bakes and cracks them into oblivion. Plus, if you use your wipers to constantly clear road gunk from the windshield, those bits of debris that are seeming tossed to the wayside slowly eat away at the wipers. If you do have a pair of wipers handy, they are easy to change. You can opt to switch out only the rubber portion of the blade that squeegees the windshield, but in most cases you'll change the whole blade. The entire gadget consists of an arm and a blade. The blade directly attaches to the arm, and is comprised of a mount and the metal-covered-by-rubber slab. Before you purchase refill blades or replacement rubber strips, either check the length with a tape measure or look in the manual for the proper size (usually they range from 16-21 inches). Also, your local auto parts store should have manuals that match up every car ever manufactured with a correct replacement. Signs You Need to Replace Your Wipers • Windshield streaking • Windshield smearing • Wiper screeching • Wiper is brittle with rubber flaking off at the touch

• Wiper is frayed Tools for the Change • Screwdriver • Tape measure • Needle-nose pliers Three Types of Wiper-Arm Mounts Hook Slot Connector―This type of blade is the easiest to change. Bring the arm to a right angle and search out the flap that attaches the wiper in the slot. Either push it in or unlatch it. One way or the other will release the blade and allow you to pull it out. If it poses any difficulty, tug it with pliers. Insert the new wiper and slide it along the slot until you feel or hear it snap into place. Pin Type Arm― Basically uses the same concept of the hook-slot arm, except you will see a pin rather than a tab. Press on the pin from behind the blade or lift the pin out (most likely will entail the use of a screwdriver). Jiggle the blade until it fully releases. Lock the new blade into the pins. Straight-End Connector―Changing this type can be a drag, because it tends to be more difficult. If there is a notch or tab that secures the blade, you only need to release it using your screwdriver. Pull the blade out and install the new one by sliding it in and locking it. This is the simplified version. The other involves having to deal with screws the size of ants that hold the blade in. Take out the screws to remove the old blade and install the new one. Note that the screws are fragile so take it easy when securing them. Now that your new wiper blades are in place, you should be able to have a clear view of the road ahead―regardless of the weather. Changing a Fuse Fuses seem to break all the time, but they're designed to. Huh? When when one circuit has too much electricity flowing through it, the fuse blows to prevent serious damage and even fire. Fuses are inexpensive and easy to replace. You can store extra fuses in your vehicle's fuse panel. If your fuse panel doesn't have a storage space, the second best place to keep such tiny parts is in your glove compartment or a special compartment in your toolbox.

Step-by-Step: How to Change a Fuse Locate the Fuse Panel Your owner's manual will tell you where your vehicle's fuse panel is. Most models situate the fuse panel on the driver's side of the dashboard and under the steering wheel, or in the engine compartment, but location varies from vehicle to vehicle. Other are found in the front dash door jambs or in the glove box. Remove the fuse panel's cover; you'll see several different color-coded fuses plugged in. These colors, along with the numbers stamped on the fuses, indicate different amperage ratings. Now, turn the fuse panel cover over to see a helpful fuse diagram. This diagram shows you which fuse works with which electrical component. Remove the Blown Fuse Before you can change a fuse, you must find the faulty one. It will have a broken filament (the thin strip of metal inside) or will be black inside. Some vehicles come with special "pullers" to remove fuses, but tweezers work just as well. You can also use your trusty fingers. Just make sure you carefully remove and replace the fuses until you find the culprit. Note that the vehicle's electrical problems may need a mechanic's attention if none of the fuses look blown, or if the fuse immediately blows again. Replace the Fuse Replace the blown fuse with a new fuse of the same amperage. Use your owner's manual, the fuse panel diagram, and the numbered, color-coded fuses themselves to help you determine the correct amperage. If you use the wrong amperage, you could cause much worse damage to your vehicle than just a blown fuse. Once you have located a fuse of the right amperage, place it into the correct slot. Push it down with your finger to ensure it's completely installed, and then replace the fuse panel's cover. Remember, if you don't have a spare fuse, you can always temporarily use the fuse of another less-used electrical component―as long as the amperage is correct. Consider using the fuse for your cigarette lighter, the radio, or the back window heater. Check the Circuit Once the fuse is replaced and the panel is covered, turn your vehicle's ignition and check to see if the troubled circuit is working properly. If it's working correctly, chances are you just had a temporary overload of electricity that caused the fuse to blow. If this is the case, then you just solved the problem.

However, if the circuit doesn't work, or it does work but only briefly before it needs to be replaced again, your vehicle's electrical problems go beyond just a blown fuse. It's best to see a mechanic at this point. Replacing Brake Fluid Adding vs. Changing Brake Fluid Adding brake fluid is usually not part of routine vehicle maintenance. Low brake fluid typically means that your brake pads are low and soon need to be changed. If you notice a sudden drop in the brake fluid level, it could indicate a problem with your brake system, or that you simply need to change your brakes. Have a professional check your brakes if you are unsure. If you are sure that your brake pads are in serviceable condition and your brake fluid is below the add line, only then should you add fluid. Symptoms of Brake Problems Some braking problems have to do with the brake fluid. If your brakes have developed a "mushy" feel, or if they need to be pumped, then, rarely, air may have entered the line. Check the brake fluid level; if the reservoir is empty, then bleeding the brake lines to remove the air may improve the condition. However, if the reservoir still holds brake fluid, have the brakes checked as soon as possible. Brake Fluid Facts Keep these facts in mind while handling brake fluid: • Never use DOT 5 brake fluid in a vehicle designed for DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids. It is ok to use DOT 4 fluid in a vehicle that requires DOT 3, but not vice-versa. • NEVER substitute any other fluid for brake fluid. • Wash your hands immediately after coming in contact with brake fluid. It eats paint, so imagine what it'll do to skin. • Properly discard brake fluid that's been unsealed for more than one year. Check with your city for recycling days or centers. How to Check and Add Brake Fluid • Determine the location of the brake fluid reservoir.

• Look inside the reservoir to determine the current fluid level. If it's at the "full" mark, close the reservoir and mark the date of the inspection in your maintenance log. • If the fluid level is below the ""add" line, have your disc brakes checked. As disc brakes wear done, the fluid is displaced into the brake calipers. Most brake fluid reservoirs are designed so you should not have to add or "top off" the fluid. If the fluid looks dark, it is time to have it changed. Bleeding the Brake Lines to Remove Air Two people are required to bleed a brake line; one to depress the brake pedal and one to drain the fluid into a container. These directions are the basic procedure for bleeding a brake line. Consult your service manual before you begin to bleed your own lines; this WILL NOT work for newer cars. Have the following items handy: • A section of plastic, vinyl or rubber tubing, 3/16" diameter, long enough to reach from the brake caliper to the clear plastic container. • A wrench to open and close the bleeder valve. • A clear plastic container containing at least one inch of clean brake fluid, or enough to submerge the plastic tubing. Clear plastic is important so you can see the air bubbles as they exit the brake line. Here are the basic instructions for the process: • Open the reservoir and add brake fluid up to the full line. • Replace the cap on the master cylinder reservoir before you begin bleeding the line. Never remove the reservoir cap while the brake pedal is depressed. • Starting with the wheel rear wheels, locate the brake cylinder or caliper and find the bleed valve on the back side. It will look line a bolt with a nipple on it and may have a rubber cap that you will have to remove. • Place one end of the clear tube into the clear container to which you have added approximately one inch of brake fluid. Be sure to do this step before you connect the other end of the tube to the bleed valve. • With the tube end in the container of brake fluid, connect the other end of the tube to the bleed valve. • Use a wrench to loosen the valve on the brake caliper just slightly. Do not allow the brake fluid to begin to flow; just loosen the valve enough to make it easy to release when you are ready to bleed the line.

You're Reading a Preview

2005 PARK AVENUE Service and Repair Manual

Recently Viewed