2003 Touring: Maintenance 1-1 HOME TROUBLESHOOTING 1.1 GENERAL The following check list of possible operating troubles and their probable causes will be helpful in keeping your motorcy- cle in good operating condition. More than one of these con- ditions may be causing the trouble and all should be carefully checked. 1WARNING The troubleshooting section of this manual is intended solely as a guide to diagnosing problems. Carefully read the appropriate sections of this manual before perform- ing any work. Improper repair and/or maintenance could result in death or serious injury. ENGINE Starter Motor Does Not Operate or Does Not Turn Engine Over 1. Ignition/Light Key Switch not in IGNITION position. 2. Engine Stop switch in the OFF position. 3. Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections (solenoid chatters). 4. TSM/TSSM BAS tripped and Ignition/Light Key Switch not cycled to OFF and then back to IGNITION. 5. Starter control circuit, relay or solenoid faulty. 6. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or over- running clutch slipping. Engine Turns Over But Does Not Start 1. Fuel tank empty. 2. Fuel supply valve turned to OFF. 3. Fouled spark plugs. 4. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over use of enrichener. 5. Fuel valve or filter clogged. 6. Vacuum hose to automatic fuel supply valve discon- nected, leaking or pinched. 7. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery terminal connections. 8. Loose wire connection at coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module. 9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or cables connected to wrong cylin- ders. 10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CKP and/or TSM/TSSM). 11. Engine lubricant too heavy (winter operation). NOTE Always disengage clutch for cold weather starts. 12. Sticking or damaged valve or push rod wrong length. 13. Primary cam sprocket spline sheared or missing spacer. Starts Hard 1. Spark plugs in bad condition, have improper gap or are partially fouled. 2. Spark plug cables in bad condition. 3. Battery nearly discharged. 4. Loose wire connection at one of the battery terminals, ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module. 5. Carburetor controls not adjusted correctly. 6. Water or dirt in fuel system and carburetor. 7. Intake air leak. 8. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or carbu- retor fuel line closed off and restricting fuel flow. 9. Enrichener valve inoperative. 10. Engine lubricant too heavy (winter operation). NOTE Always disengage clutch for cold weather starts. 11. Ignition not functioning properly (possible sensor failure). 12. Faulty ignition coil. 13. Valves sticking. Starts But Runs Irregularly or Misses 1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled. 2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking. 3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide. 4. Faulty ignition coil, module and/or sensor. 5. Battery nearly discharged. 6. Damaged wire or loose connection at battery terminals, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module. 7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation. 8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter. 9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off. 10. Carburetor controls misadjusted. 11. Damaged carburetor.
1-2 2003 Touring: Maintenance HOME 12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase. 13. Faulty MAP and/or CKP Sensor. 14. Incorrect valve timing. 15. Weak or broken valve springs. 16. Damaged intake or exhaust valve. A Spark Plug Fouls Repeatedly 1. Fuel mixture too rich or enrichener left out too long. 2. Incorrect spark plug for the kind of service. 3. Piston rings badly worn or broken. 4. Valve guides or seals badly worn. Pre-Ignition or Detonation (Knocks or Pings) 1. Fuel octane rating too low. 2. Faulty spark plugs. 3. Incorrect spark plug for the kind of service. 4. Excessive carbon deposit on piston head or in combus- tion chamber. 5. Ignition timing advanced due to faulty sensor inputs (MAP, CKP). Overheating 1. Insufficient oil supply or oil not circulating. 2. Insufficient air flow over engine. 3. Heavy carbon deposit. 4. Ignition timing retarded due to faulty MAP and/or CKP Sensor. 5. Leaking valve. Valve Train Noise 1. Low oil pressure caused by oil feed pump not functioning properly or oil passages obstructed. 2. Faulty hydraulic lifters. 3. Bent push rod. 4. Incorrect push rod length. 5. Rocker arm binding on shaft. 6. Valve sticking in guide. 7. Chain tensioner spring or shoe worn. Excessive Vibration 1. Wheels and/or tires worn or damaged. 2. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly. 3. Primary chain badly worn or links tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment. 4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose. 5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose. 6. Ignition timing incorrect/poorly tuned engine. 7. Internal engine problem. 8. Broken frame. 9. Stabilizer links worn or loose. 10. Rubber mounts loose or worn. 11. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose. 12. Front engine mounting bolts loose. Check Engine Lamp Illuminates During Operation 1. Fault detected. Check for trouble codes. LUBRICATION SYSTEM Oil Does Not Return To Oil Pan 1. Oil pan empty. 2. Oil pump not functioning. 3. Restricted oil lines or fittings. 4. Restricted oil filter. 5. Oil pump misaligned or in poor condition. 6. O-ring damaged or missing from oil pump/crankcase junction (also results in poor engine performance). Engine Uses Too Much Oil Or Smokes Excessively 1. Oil pan overfilled. 2. Restricted oil return line to pan. 3. Restricted breather operation. 4. Restricted oil filter. 5. Oil pump misaligned or in poor condition. 6. Piston rings badly worn or broken. 7. Valve guides or seals worn. 8. O-ring damaged or missing from oil pump/crankcase junction (also results in poor engine performance). Engine Leaks Oil From Case, Push Rods, Hoses, Etc. 1. Loose parts. 2. Imperfect seal at gaskets, push rod cover, washers, etc. 3. Restricted oil return line to pan. 4. Restricted breather hose to air cleaner. 5. Restricted oil filter.
2003 Touring: Maintenance 1-3 HOME 6. Oil pan overfilled. 7. Rocker housing gasket (bottom) installed upside down. Low Oil Pressure 1. Oil pan underfilled. 2. Faulty low oil pressure switch. 3. Oil pump O-ring(s) damaged or missing. 4. Oil pressure relief valve stuck in open position. 5. Ball or clean out plug missing from cam support plate. High Oil Pressure 1. Oil pan overfilled. 2. Oil pressure relief valve stuck in closed position. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Alternator Does Not Charge 1. Module not grounded. 2. Engine ground wire loose or broken. 3. Faulty regulator-rectifier module. 4. Loose or broken wires in charging circuit. 5. Faulty stator and/or rotor. Alternator Charge Rate Is Below Normal 1. Weak or damaged battery. 2. Loose connections. 3. Faulty regulator-rectifier module. 4. Faulty stator and/or rotor. Speedometer Operates Erratically 1. Contaminated speedometer sensor (remove sensor and clean off metal particles). 2. Loose connections. CARBURETOR Carburetor Floods 1. Dirt or other foreign matter between valve and its seat. 2. Inlet valve sticking. 3. Inlet valve and/or valve seat worn or damaged. 4. Float misadjusted. 5. Leaky or damaged float. 6. Excessive “pumping” of hand throttle grip. 7. See TROUBLESHOOTING CHART in Section 4. TRANSMISSION Transmission Shifts Hard 1. Clutch dragging slightly. 2. Primary chaincase overfilled with lubricant. 3. Corners worn off shifter clutch dogs. 4. Shifter return spring bent or broken. 5. Bent shifter rod. 6. Shifter forks sprung. 7. Transmission lubrication too heavy (winter operation). Jumps Out Of Gear 1. Shifter rod improperly adjusted. 2. Shifter drum damaged. 3. Shifter engaging parts (inside transmission) badly worn and rounded. 4. Shifter forks bent. 5. Damaged gears. Clutch Slips 1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted. 2. Insufficient clutch spring tension. 3. Worn friction discs. Clutch Drags Or Does Not Release 1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted. 2. Lubricant level too high in primary chaincase. 3. Primary chain badly misaligned. 4. Clutch discs warped. 5. Insufficient clutch spring tension. Clutch Chatters 1. Friction discs or steel discs worn or warped.
1-4 2003 Touring: Maintenance HOME BRAKES Brake Does Not Hold Normally 1. Master cylinder reservoir low on fluid. 2. Brake system contains air bubbles. 3. Master or wheel cylinder piston worn or parts damaged. 4. Brake pads contaminated with grease or oil. 5. Brake pads badly worn- friction material 0.04 inch (1.02 mm) thick or less. 6. Brake disc badly worn or warped. 7. Brake fades due to heat build up – brake pads dragging or excessive braking. 8. Brake drags – insufficient brake pedal free play. HANDLING Irregularities 1. Improperly loaded motorcycle. Non-standard equipment on the front end such as heavy radio receivers, extra lighting equipment or luggage tends to cause unstable handling. 2. Incorrect air suspension pressure. 3. Damaged tire(s) or improper front-rear tire combination. 4. Irregular or peaked front tire tread wear. 5. Incorrect tire pressure. 6. Shock absorber not functioning normally. 7. Loose wheel axle nuts. Tighten to recommended tight- ness. 8. Excessive wheel hub bearing play. 9. Improper vehicle alignment. 10. Steering head bearings improperly adjusted. Correct adjustment and replace pitted or worn bearings and races. 11. Tire and wheel unbalanced. 12. Rims and tires out-of-round or eccentric with hub. 13. Rims and tires out-of-true sideways. 14. Shock absorber improperly adjusted. 15. Worn engine stabilizer links. 16. Damaged rear engine isolation mounts. 17. Swingarm pivot shaft nut improperly tightened or assem- bled.
2003 Touring: Maintenance 1-5 HOME SHOP PRACTICES 1.2 REPAIR NOTES General maintenance practices are given in this section. All special tools and torque values are noted at the point of use and all required parts or materials can be found in the appro- priate PARTS CATALOG. Safety Safety is always the most important consideration when per- forming any job. Be sure you have a complete understanding of the task to be performed. Use common sense. Use the proper tools. Don’t just do the job – do the job safely. Removing Parts Always consider the weight of a part when lifting. Use a hoist whenever necessary. Do not lift heavy parts by hand. A hoist and adjustable lifting beam or sling are needed to remove some parts. The lengths of chains or cables from the hoist to the part should be equal and parallel, and should be posi- tioned directly over the center of the part. Be sure that no obstructions will interfere with the lifting operation. Never leave a part suspended in mid-air. Always use blocking or proper stands to support the part that has been hoisted. If a part cannot be removed, verify that all bolts and attaching hardware have been removed. Check to see if any parts are in the way of the part being removed. When removing hoses, wiring or tubes, always tag each part to ensure proper installation. Cleaning If you intend to reuse parts, follow good shop practice and thoroughly clean the parts before assembly. Keep all dirt out of parts; the unit will perform better and last longer. Seals, fil- ters and covers are used in this vehicle to keep out environ- mental dirt and dust. These items must be kept in good condition to ensure satisfactory operation. Clean and inspect all parts as they are removed. Be sure all holes and passages are clean and open. After cleaning, cover all parts with clean lint-free cloth, paper or other mate- rial. Be sure the part is clean when it is installed. Always clean around lines or covers before they are removed. Plug, tape or cap holes and openings to keep out dirt, dust and debris. Always verify cleanliness of blind holes before assembly. Tightening screws with dirt, water or oil in the holes can cause castings to crack or break. Disassembly and Assembly Always assemble or disassemble one part at a time. Do not work on two assemblies simultaneously. Be sure to make all necessary adjustments. Recheck your work when finished. Be sure that everything is done. Operate the vehicle to perform any final check or adjust- ments. If all is correct, the vehicle is ready to go back to the customer. Checking Torques on Fasteners with Lock Patches To check the torque on a fastener that has a lock patch: 1. Set the torque wrench for the lowest setting in the speci- fied torque range. 2. Attempt to tighten fastener to set torque. If fastener does not move and lowest setting is satisfied (torque wrench clicks), then the proper torque has been maintained. REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES Hardware and Threaded Parts Install helical thread inserts when inside threads in castings are stripped, damaged or not capable of withstanding speci- fied torque. Replace bolts, nuts, studs, washers, spacers and small com- mon hardware if missing or in any way damaged. Clean up or repair minor thread damage with a suitable tap or die. Replace all damaged or missing lubrication fittings. Use Teflon tape on pipe fitting threads. Wiring, Hoses and Lines Replace hoses, clamps, electrical wiring, electrical switches or fuel lines if they do not meet specifications. Instruments and Gauges Replace broken or defective instruments and gauges. Replace dials and glass that are so scratched or discolored that reading is difficult.
1-6 2003 Touring: Maintenance HOME Bearings Anti-friction bearings must be handled in a special way. To keep out dirt and abrasives, cover the bearings as soon as they are removed from the package. Wash bearings in a non-flammable cleaning solution. Knock out packed lubricant inside by tapping the bearing against a wooden block. Wash bearings again. Cover bearings with clean material after setting them down to dry. Never use com- pressed air to dry bearings. Coat bearings with clean oil. Wrap bearings in clean paper. Be sure that the chamfered side of the bearing always faces the shoulder (when bearings installed against shoulders). Lubricate bearings and all metal contact surfaces before pressing into place. Only apply pressure on the part of the bearing that makes direct contact with the mating part. Always use the proper tools and fixtures for removing and installing bearings. Bearings do not usually need to be removed. Only remove bearings if necessary. Bushings Do not remove a bushing unless damaged, excessively worn or loose in its bore. Press out bushings that must be replaced. When pressing or driving bushings, be sure to apply pres- sure in line with the bushing bore. Use a bearing/bushing driver or a bar with a smooth, flat end. Never use a hammer to drive bushings. Inspect the bushing and the mated part for oil holes. Be sure all oil holes are properly aligned. Gaskets Always discard gaskets after removal. Replace with new gas- kets. Never use the same gasket twice (unless instructed otherwise). Be sure that gasket holes match up with holes in the mating part. If a gasket must be made, be sure to cut holes that match up with the mating part. Serious vehicle damage can occur if any flange holes are blocked by the gasket. Use material that is the right type and thickness. Lip Type Seals Lip seals are used to seal oil or grease and are usually installed with the sealing lip facing the contained lubricant. Seal orientation, however, may vary under different applica- tions. Seals should not be removed unless necessary. Only remove seals if required to gain access to other parts or if seal dam- age or wear dictates replacement. Leaking oil or grease usually means that a seal is damaged. Replace leaking seals to prevent overheated bearings. Always discard seals after removal. Do not use the same seal twice. O-Rings (Preformed Packings) Always discard O-rings after removal. Replace with new O- rings. To prevent leaks, lubricate the O-rings before installa- tion. Apply the same type of lubricant as that being sealed. Be sure that all gasket, O-ring and seal mating surfaces are thoroughly clean before installation. Gears Always check gears for damaged or worn teeth. Remove burrs and rough spots with a honing stone or crocus cloth before installation. Lubricate mating surfaces before pressing gears on shafts. Shafts If a shaft does not come out easily, check that all nuts, bolts or retaining rings have been removed. Check to see if other parts are in the way before using force. Shafts fitted to tapered splines should be very tight. If shafts are not tight, disassemble and inspect tapered splines. Dis- card parts that are worn. Be sure tapered splines are clean, dry and free of burrs before putting them in place. Press mat- ing parts together tightly. Clean all rust from the machined surfaces of new parts. Part Replacement Always replace worn or damaged parts with new parts. CLEANING Part Protection Before cleaning, protect rubber parts (such as hoses, boots and electrical insulation) from cleaning solutions. Use a grease-proof barrier material. Remove the rubber part if it cannot be properly protected. Cleaning Process Any cleaning method may be used as long as it does not result in parts damage. Thorough cleaning is necessary for proper parts inspection. Strip rusted paint areas to bare metal before repainting.
2003 Touring: Maintenance 1-7 HOME Rust or Corrosion Removal Remove rust and corrosion with a wire brush, abrasive cloth, sand blasting, vapor blasting or rust remover. Use buffing crocus cloth on highly polished parts that are rusted. Bearings Remove shields and seals from bearings before cleaning. Clean bearings with permanent shields and seals in solution. Clean open bearings by soaking them in a petroleum clean- ing solution. Never use a solution that contains chlorine. Let bearings stand and dry. Do not dry using compressed air. Do not spin bearings while they are drying.
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2003 Harley-Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic Service & Repair Manual