1966-1983 Chrysler Marine 3.5-140HP Engines Service & Repair Manual

TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 SAFETY INTRODUCTION 1-1 CLEANING, WAXING, & POLISHING 1-1 CONTROLLI NG CORROSION PROPELLERS Diameter & Pitch Proper Selection Cavitation Vibration Shock Absorbers Propeller Rake Progressive Pitch Cupping FUEL SYSTEM Taking on Fuel Static Electricity Fuel Tank Grounding LOADING HORSEPOWER FLOTATION EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT COMPASS ANCHORS MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT BOATING ACCIDENT REPORTS NAVIGATION 2 N NING INTRODUCTION TUNE- UP SEQUENCE COMPRESSION CHECK SPARK PLUG INSPECTION IGNITION SYSTEM TIMING & SYNCHRONIZING BATTERY CHECK FUEL & FUEL TANKS GENERAL CARBURETOR INFO. SPECIFIC CARBURETOR INFO. Walbro LMB, Carburetor "A" Tillotson MT, Carburetor "B" Tillotson MD, Carburetor "C" Tillotson CO, TC, & WB -- Carburetor "D" Walbro WE, Carburetor "E" Amal, Carburetor "F" TACHOMETER LESSON FUEL SYSTEM Fuel Pumps CRANKING MOTOR INTERNAL WIRING HARNESS WATER PUMP CHECK PROPELLER LOWER UNIT BOAT TESTING 3 MAINTENANCE INTRODUCTION 3-1 OUTBOARD SERIAL NUMBERS 3-2 LUBRICATION - - COMPLETE UNIT 3-2 PRE-SEASON PREPARATION SEALANTS, ADHESIVES, LUBRI- CANTS, HYDRAULIC FLUID, AND STABILIZERS BELOW WATERLINE SERVICE INSIDE THE BOAT SUBMERGED ENGINE SERVICE LOWER UNIT PROPELLER SERVICE WINTER STORAGE Battery Storage 4 FUEL INTRODUCTION GENERAL CARBURETOR INFO. CARBURETOR MODELS FUEL SYSTEM Leaded Gasoline & Gasohol Removing Fuel From System TROUBLESHOOTING Fuel Problems "Sour" Fuel (c) PDF Manual Publisher

4 FUEL (CONTINUED) TROUBLESHOOTING (CONT.) Fuel Pump Test Fuel Line Test Rough Engine Idle Excessive Fuel Consumption Engine Surge SERVICE CARBURETOR "A" -- WALBRO LMB Removal & Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling & Installation SERVICE CARBURETOR "B" -- TILLOTSON MT Removal & Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling & Installation SERVICE CARBURETOR "C" -- TILLOTSON MD Removal & Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling & Installation SERVICE CARBURETOR "D" -- TILLOTSON CO, TC, & WB Removal & Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling & Installation SERVICE CARBURETOR "El1 - - WALBRO WE Removal & Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling & Installation SERVICE CARBURETOR "F" - - THE AMAL TACHOMETERS & CONNECTIONS 4-56 FUEL PUMP 4-57 Description & Operation 4-57 Pressure Check 4-58 Removal & Disassembling 4-59 Cleaning & Inspecting 4-62 Assembling & Installation 4-62 5 IGNITION INTRODUCTION 5- 1 SPARK PLUG EVALUATION 5-2 POLARITY CHECK 5-5 WIRING HARNESS 5-6 TROUBLESHOOTING BASIC COMPO- NENTS 5-6 TESTING BASIC COMPONENTS 5-9 FLYWHEEL REMOVAL & INSTALLA- TION 5-14 Model 3.5hp thru 30hp 5-14 Model 35hp & Larger 5-16 Cleaning & Inspecting 5-1 7 Flywheel Magnets Model 3.5hp thru 30hp Model 35hp & Larger TYPE I IGNITION SYSTEM -- FLYWHEEL MAGNETO - BATTERY TYPE -- MAGNAPOWER I Component Function Operation Description Testing Type I Servicing Type I Cleaning & Inspecting Installation TYPE I1 IGNITION SYSTEM -- MAGNAPOWER I1 Description & Operation Testing Type I1 Servicing Type I1 Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling & Installation TYPE I11 IGNITION SYSTEM -- CD (CAPACITOR DISCHARGE) - PRESTOLITE MAGNAPOWER I11 Description & Opera tion Testing Type I11 Servicing Type I11 Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling & Installation TYPE IV IGNITION SYSTEM UNITS WITH DISTRIBUTOR Description & Operation Testing Type IV Servicing Type IV Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling & Installation 6 TIMING AND SYNCHRONIZING INTRODUCTION & PREPARATION TACHOMETERS & CONNECTIONS IGNITION TIMING CARBURETOR SYNCHRONIZING - GENERAL ADJUSTMENTS Throttle Pickup Adjustment Idle Mixture Adjustment Idle Speed Adjustment Neutral Warmup Electric Choke Adjustment SYNCHRONIZE CARBURETOR "A" Static Adjustments 6-7 Dynamic Adjustments 6-8 SYNCHRONIZE CARBURETOR "B" 6- 9 Static Adjustments 6-10 Dynamic Adjustments 6-11 SYNCHRONIZE CARBURETOR "C" 6-12 Static Adjustments 6-13 Dynamic Adjustments 6-13 (c) PDF Manual Publisher

SYNCHRONIZE CARBURETOR "D" 6- 14 Static Adjustments 6 - 15 Dynamic Adjustments 6- 16 SYNCHRONIZE CARBURETOR "D" OR CARBURETOR "E" 6- 18 Static Adjustments 6-1 9 Dynamic Adjustments 6- 24 IGNITION TIMING - - ALL MODELS 35HP AND LARGER General Information 6- 26 Model 35hp -- 1976 - 79 and 1983- 84 6- 27 IGNITION TIMING AT WOT - - MODELS WITH FLYWHEEL MARKS 6- 27 Establishing TDC & BTDC Marks 6 - 28 IGNITION TIMING - - 35HP THRU 55HP, SPECIFIC YEARS 6- 31 IGNITION TIMING -- 55HP THRU 65HP & ALL 4 - CYLINDER W/O DISTRIBUTOR 6- 34 IGNITION TIMING -- WITH DISTRIBUTOR 6- 35 SYNCHRONIZE CARBURETOR "F" 6- 38 7 POWERHEAD INTRODUCTION AND CHAPTER ORGANIZATION TWO- CYCLE POWERHEAD Description & Operation Physical Operation Timing -- 2 - Stroke Unit Cooling Lecture Cylinder Drain System PREPARATION FOR SERVICE Removal -- Misc. Components Intake Manifold & Reed Block POWERHEAD REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLING Crankshaft & Rod Removal Main Bearings Piston Removal Crankshaft Disassembling CLEANING & INSPECTING Thermostat Service Temperature Sender Crankshaft Service Rod Service Piston Service Ring End Gap Cylinder Block Hone Cylinder Walls Block & Head Warpage Crankcase Cover POWERHEAD ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLATION Assembling Pistons & Rods Installing Pistons & Rods Crankcase Cover Exhaust Cover Upper Oil Seal Housing Power head Installation Closing Tasks Sealing Service Words Thermoswitch Supporting Components 8 ELECTRICAL INTRODUCTION 8- 1 BATTERIES 8- 1 Marine Batteries 8- 1 Construction 8- 2 Ratings 8 - 2 Service 8- 3 Jumper Cables 8- 6 Storage 8- 6 TACHOMETER 8- 7 GENERAL ELECTRICAL INFOR MATION 8- 7 CHARGING CIRCUIT SERVICE 8- 8 Rectif ier/Regulator 8 - 8 Stator Service 8- 10 CRANKING MOTOR CIRCUIT 8- 11 Description 8- 1 1 Troubleshooting 8 - 13 Installation 8- 15 CRANKING MOTOR SERVICE 8- 16 Description 8- 16 Removal & Disassembling 8- 16 Cleaning & Inspecting 8 - 18 Testing Components 8- 20 Assembling 8- 23 TESTING OTHER COMPONENTS 8- 26 TrimITilt Switch 8- 26 Trim/Til t Motor 8- 27 Ignition Switch 8- 27 "Kill" Switch 8- 28 Shift Interlock Switch 8- 28 Overheat Warning Horn 8 - 29 Circuit Breaker 8- 29 AUTO ELECTRIC SYSTEM 8- 30 Description 8- 30 Removal & Disassembling 8- 30 Cleaning & Inspecting 8-31 Assembling 3c Installation 8- 33 INTRODUCTION AND CHAPTER ORGANIZATION 9- 1 SYSTEM OPERATION 9- 2 Electric Motor 9-2 Hydraulic Pump 9- 2 (c) PDF Manual Publisher

9 TRIM/TILT (CONTINUED) PURGING AIR FROM SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING Hydraulic Test Electrical Test SERVICE PUMP & MOTOR Removal Disassembling Testing Motor Assembling Installation SERVICE CYLINDERS Preliminary Tasks TILT CYLINDER Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling TRIM CYLINDER Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling Installation SYSTEM -- ONE TRIMITILT CYL. TWO DESIGNS INCLUDED Removal Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling & Installation TRIMITILT SENDING UNIT 10 LOWER UNIT CHAPTER ORGANIZATION TROUBLESHOOTING PROPELLER SERVICE ONE- & TWO- CYLINDER UNITS PROPELLER SERVICE 3- & 4 - CYLINDER UNITS FILLIDRAIN ALL LOWER UNITS SERVICE L.U. TYPE "A" CONSTANT MESH -- NO SHIFT Removal Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling Installat ion SERVICE L.lJ. TYPE "B" ONE PIECE -- CAM SHIFT F- N OR F- N- R Removal Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling Installat ion SERVICE L.U. TYPE "C" ONE PIECE - COUPLER SHIFT F- N- R 10 - 39 Removal 10 - 39 Disassembling 10- 41 Cleaning & Inspecting 10- 47 Assembling 10- 51 Backlash 10- 53 Prop. Shaft End " Play" 10-58 Installation 10- 62 SERVICE L.U. TYPE "Dlt TWO- PIECE -- CAM OR COUPLER SHIFT - - F- N- R 10- 64 Removal 10- 64 Disassembling 10- 66 Cleaning & Inspecting 10 - 73 Assembling 10- 77 Prop. Shaft End Play 10- 85 Installation 10- 87 11 HAND REWIND STARTER INTRODUCTION AND CHAPTER COVERAGE 11- 1 SERVICE TYPE "A" -- MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEEL 11- 2 Removal & Disassembling 11- 2 Cleaning & Inspecting 11- 4 Assembling & Installation 11-5 SERVICE TYPE "B"-- MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEEL 11- 9 Removal & Disassembling 11- 10 Cleaning S( Inspecting 11 - 12 Assembling & Installation 11- 12 Check Interlock System 11- 16 SERVICE TYPE "C" -- SPOOL MOUNTED VERTICALLY THREE MODELS INCLIJDED 11- 17 Replace Frayed or Broken Rope 11- 17 Cleaning & Inspecting 11- 22 Installation 11 - 23 Replace Broken Spring 1 1- 26 Cleaning & Inspecting 1 1- 27 Installation 1 1- 28 Adjust Interlock System 11- 30 12 REMOTE CONTROL INTRODUCTION 12- 1 OPERATION 12- 1 SERVICING 12- 1 Removal & Disassembling 12- 2 Cleaning & Inspecting 12- 5 Assembling & Installation 12-6 (c) PDF Manual Publisher

APPENDIX METRIC CONVERSION TABLE DRILL SIZE CONVERSION CHART TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE SPECIFICATION AND TUNE-UP ADJUSTMENTS 1962 thru 1966 1967 thru 1969 1970 and 1971 1972 and 1973 1974 and 1975 1976 and 1977 1978 and 1979 1980 and 1981 1982 and 1983 1984 POWERHEAD SPECIFICATIONS A-24 CYLINDER COMPRESSION A-26 LOWER UNIT OIL CAPACITY A-27 CARBURETOR JET SIZE/ ELEVATION CHART A-28 WIRING DIAGRAMS WITH COLOR CODE By Horsepower & Ignition System A-29 thru A-53 (c) PDF Manual Publisher

SAFETY 1-1 INTRODUCTION In order to protect the investment for the boat and outboard, they must be cared for properly while being used and when out of the water. Always store the boat with the bow higher than the stern and be sure to remove the transom drain plug and the inner hull drain plugs. If any type of cover is used to protect the boat, be sure to allow for some movement of air through the hull. Proper ventilation will assure eiaporation of any condensation that may form due to changes in temperature and humidity. 1-2 CLEANING, WAXING, AND POLISHING Any boat should be washed with clear water after each use to remove surface dirt and any salt deposits from use in salt water. Regular rinsing will extend the time be - tween waxing and polishing. It will also give you " pride of ownership " , by having a sharp looking piece of equipment. Elbow grease, a mild detergent, and a brush will be required to remove stubborn dirt, oil, and other un - sightly deposits. Stay away from harsh abrasives or strong chemical cleaners. A white buffing com - pound can be used to restore the original gloss to a scratched, dull, or faded area. The finish of your boat should be thoroughly cleaned, buffed, and polished at least once each season. Take care when buffing or polishing with a marine cleaner not to over - heat the surface you are working, because you will burn it. The first form was merely rot in the wood and then it was rust, followed by other forms of destructive corrosion in the more modern materials. One defense against cor - rosion is to use similar metals throughout the boat. Even though this is difficult to do in designing a new boat, particularly the undersides, similar metals should be used whenever and wherever possible. A second defense against corrosion is to insulate dissimilar metals. This can be done 1-3 CONTROLLING CORROSION A well kept unit, cleaned, serviced, tuned, and ready to leave the service facility. Proper care reflects the Since man first started out on the water, owner's "pride of ownership" and will be rewarded with corrosion on his craft has been his enemy. p zrf orm ance. (c) PDF Manual Publisher

1 - 2 SAFETY A new anode, left, compared with a slightly used one, right. This type anode is attached to the bearing carrier on larger hp units. by using an exterior coating of Sea Skin or by insulating them with plastic or rubber gaskets. Using Zinc The proper amount of zinc attached to a boat is extremely important. The use of too much zinc can cause wood burning by plac - ing the metals close together and they be - come "hot". On the other hand, using too small a zinc plate will cause more rapid deterioration of the metal you are trying to Mounting a large zinc on the transom to protect more valuable parts. protect. If in doubt, consider the fact that it is far better to replace the zincs than to replace planking or other expensive metal parts from having an excess of zinc. When installing zinc plates, there are two routes available. One is to install many different zincs on all metal parts and thus run the risk of wood burning. Another route, is to use one large zinc on the tran - som of the boat and then connect this zinc to every underwater metal part through internal bonding. Of the two choices, the one zinc on the transom is the better way to go* 1- 4 PROPELLERS As you know, the propeller is actually what moves the boat through the water. This is how it is done. The propeller oper - ates in water in much the same manner as a wood screw does in wood. The propeller " bites " into the water as it rotates. Water passes between the blades and out to the rear in the shape of a cone. The propeller " biting" through the water in much the same manner as a wood auger is what propels the boat. All units covered in this manual are equipped, from the factory, with a through the propeller exhaust. With these units, exhaust gas is forced out through the pro - peller. Diameter and Pitch Only two dimensions of the propeller are of real interest to the boat owner: the diameter and the pitch. These two dimen - sions are stamped on the propeller hub and always appear in the same order: the diam- Diameter and pitch are the two basic dimensions of a propeller. The diameter is measured across the circumference of a circle scribed by the propeller blades, as shown. (c) PDF Manual Publisher

PROPELLERS 1 - 3 eter first and then the pitch. Propellers furnished with the outboard by the manufac - turer for the units covered in this manual have a letter designation following the pitch size. This letter indicates the propeller type. For instance, the numbers and letter 9-718 x 10-112 - F stamped on the back of one blade indicates the propeller diameter to be 9-7/8", with a pitch of 10-112" and it is a Type "F". The diameter is the measured distance from the tip of one blade to the tip of the other as shown in the accompanying illus - tration. The pitch of a propeller is the angle at which the blades are attached to the hub. This figure is expressed in inches of water travel for each revolution of the propeller. In our example of a 9-718 x 10-112 propeller, the propeller should travel 10-112 inches through the water each time it revolves. If the propeller action was perfect and there was no slippage, then the pitch multiplied by the propeller rpms would be the boat speed. Most outboard manufacturers equip their units with a standard propeller having a di - ameter and pitch they consider to be best suited to the engine and the boat. Such a propeller allows the engine to run as near to the rated rpm and horsepower (at full throt - tle) as possible for the boat design. The blade area of the propeller deter - mines its load - carrying capacity. A two- blade propeller is used for high - speed run - ning under very light loads. A four - blade propeller is installed in boats intended to operate at low speeds under very heavy loads such as tugs, barges, or large houseboats. The three - blade pro - peller is the happy medium covering the wide range between the high performance units and the load carrying workhorses. Diagram to explain the pitch dimension through water if there were no friction. Typical attaching hardware to secure the propeller onto the propeller shaft. Propeller Selection There is no standard propeller that will do the proper job in very many cases. The list of sizes and weights of boats is almost endless. This fact coupled with the many boat - engine combinations makes the propel - ler selection for a specific purpose a diffi - cult task. Actually, in many cases the propeller may be changed after a few test runs. Proper selection is aided through the use of charts set up for various engines and boats. These charts should be studied and C6 21" - 4 of a propeller. The pitch is the theoretical distance a propeller would travel (c) PDF Manual Publisher

1 - 4 SAFETY understood when buying a propeller. How- ever, bear in mind, the charts are based on average boats with average loads, therefore, it may be necessary to make a change in size or pitch, in order to obtain the desired results for the hull design or load condition. Propellers are available with a wide range of pitch. Remember, a low pitch takes a smaller bite of the water than the high pitch propeller. This means the low pitch propeller will travel less distance through the water per revolution. The low pitch will require less horsepower and will allow the engine to run faster. All engine manufacturers design their units to operate with full throttle at, or slightly above, the rated rpm. If t h e power- head is operated at the rated rpm, several positive advantages will be gained. 1 - Spark plug life will be increased. 2 - Better fuel economy will be realized. 3 - Easier steering qualities. 4- Best performance received from the boat and power unit. Therefore, take time to make the proper propeller selection for the rated rpm of the engine at full throttle with what might be corsidered an " average " load. The boat will then be correctly balanced between engine and propeller throughout the entire speed range. A reliable tachometer must be used to measure powerhead speed at full throttle to EDGE Cavitation (air bubbles) formed at the propeller. Manufacturers are constantly fighting this problem, as explained in the text. ensure the engine will achieve full horse - power and operate efficiently and safely. To test for the correct propeller, make a test run in a body of smooth water with the lower unit in forward gear at full throttle. If the reading is above the manufacturer's recommended operating range, try propel - lers of greater pitch, until one is found allowing the powerhead to operate continu - ally within the recommended full throttle range. If the engine is unable to del~ver top performance and the powerhead is properly tuned, then the propeller may not be to blame. Operating conditions have a marked effect on performance. For instance, an engine will lose rpm when run in very cold water. It will also lose rpm when run in salt water as compared with fresh water. A hot, low - barometer day will also cause the en - gine to lose power. Cavitation Cavitation is the forming of voids in the water just ahead of the propeller blades. Marine propulsion designers are constantly fighting the battle against the formation of these voids due to excessive blade tip speed and engine wear. The voids may be filled with air or water vapor, or they may actual - ly be a partial vacuum. Cavitation may be caused by installing a piece of equipment too close to the lower unit, such as the knot indicator pickup, depth sounder, or bait tank pickup. Example of a damaged propeller. This unit should have been replaced long before this amount of damage was sustained. (c) PDF Manual Publisher

PROPELLERS 1 - 5 Vibration The propeller should be checked reg - ularly to ensure all blades are in good condi - tion. If any of the blades become bent or nicked, this condition will set up vibrations in the drive unit and the motor. If the vibration becomes very serious it will cause a loss of power, efficiency, and boat perfor - mance. If the vibration is allowed to con - tinue over a period of time it can have a damaging effect on many of the operating parts. Vibration in boats can never be com - pletely eliminated, but it can be reduced by keeping all parts in good working condition and through proper maintenance and lubri - cation. Vibration can also be reduced in some cases by increasing the number of blades. For this reason, many racers use two - blade props and luxury cruisers have four - and five - blade props installed. Shock Absorbers The shock absorber in the propeller plays a very important role in protecting the shafting, gears, and engine against the shock of a blow, should the propeller strike an underwater object. The shock absorber al - lows the propeller to stop rotating at the instant of impact while the power train continues turning. Rubber hub removed from the propeller because the hub was slipping in the propeller. How much impact the propeller is able to withstand, before causing the shock ab - sorber to slip, is calculated to be more than the force needed to propel the boat, but lets than the amount that could damage any part of the power train. Under normal propulsion loads of moving the boat through the water, the hub will not slip. However, it will slip if the propeller strikes an object with a force that would be great enough to stop any part of the power train. If the power train was to absorb an impact great enough to stop rotation, even for an instant, something would have to give, resulting in severe damage. If a propeller is subjected to repeated striking of underwater objects, it would eventually slip on its clutch hub under normal loads. If the propeller should start to slip, a new shock absorber/cushion hub would have to be in- stalled. Illustration depicting the rake of a propeller, as explained in the text. (c) PDF Manual Publisher