2006 Mercury 2.5-350 HP 4-Stroke (1-4 Cylinder/V6/V8) Outboards OEM Service & Repair Manual

4-Stroke Outboards MERCURY 2005-11 REPAIR MANUAL .___ ___ . _ · __ 2.5·350 HP, 1·4 CYLINDER, V6 & VB MODELS

CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL 1·2 BOATING SAFETY 1·4 BOATING EQUIPMENT 1·10 SAFETY IN SERVICE 1-13 TROUBLESHOOTING 1·13 SHOP EQUIPMENT 1·17 TOOLS 1-19 FASTENERS, MEASUREMENT, AND CONVERSIONS 1·27 SPECIFICATIONS 1 ·28 GENERAL INFORMATION 2-2 LUBRICATION 2·5 BOAT MAINTENANCE 2·39 TUNE-UP 2-42 VALVE CLEARANCE 2·85 STORAGE (WHAT TO DO BEFORE & AFTER) 2·101 CLEARING A SUBMERGED MOTOR 2-105 SPECIFICATIONS 2·107 FUEL SYSTEM BASICS 3·2 FUEL TANK & LINES 3·6 CARBURETED FUEL SYSTEM 3·12 ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM 3·33 FUEL PUMP (LOW-PRESSURE) SERVICE 3·116 SPECIFICATIONS 3·32 UNDERSTANDING & TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 4·2 IGNITION SYSTEMS 4·8 CHARGING SYSTEMS 4·38 CRANKING (ELECTRIC STARTER) SYSTEM 4·42 ELECTRICAL SWITCH SERVICE 4·67 SPECIFICATIONS 4·69 WIRING DIAGRAMS 4·73 LUBRICATION SYSTEM 5-2 COOLING SYSTEM 5·12 LUBRICATION & COOLING FLOW DIAGRAMS 5-27 SPECIFICATIONS 5·46

POWERHEAD MECHANICAL 6-2 POWERHEAD REFINISHING 6· 111 POWERHEAD BREAK-IN 6·126 SPECIFICATIONS 6-127 LOWER UNIT 7·2 GEARCASE SERVICE 7-4 GEARCASE EXPLODED VIEWS 7-16 JET DRIVE 7-29 MECHANICAL TILT (UNASSISTED OR GAS ASSIST) 8·2 POWER TRIM/TILT SYSTEMS 8·16 REMOTE CONTROLS • MECHANICAL UNITS 9·2 REMOTE CONTROLS· DIGITAL THROTTLE & SHIFT (DTS) UNITS 9·15 TILLER HANDLE 9-20 REMOTE CONTROL WIRING HAND REWIND STARTERS 10·2 MASTER INDEX 10·13 CONTENTS

Proper service and repair procedures are vital to the safe, reliable operation of all marine engines, as well as the personal safety of those performing repairs. This manual outlines procedures for servicing and repairing engines and drive systems using safe, effective methods. The procedures contain many NOTES, CAUTIONS and WARNINGS which should be followed, along with standard procedures, to minimize the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety. It is important to note that repair procedures and techniques, tools and parts for servicing these engines, as well as the skill and experience of the individual performing the work, vary widely. It is not possible to anticipate all of the conceivable ways or conditions under which the engine may be serviced, or to provide cautions as to all possible hazards that may result. Standard and accepted safety precautions and equipment should be used during cutting, grinding, chiseling, prying, or any other process that can cause material removal or projeCtiles. Some procedures require the use of tools specially designed for a specific task. Before substituting another tool or procedure, you must be completely satisfied that neither your personal safety, nor the performance of the vessel, will be endangered. All procedures covered in this manual requiring the use of special tools will be noted at the beginning of the procedure by means of an OEM symbol Additionally, any procedure requiring the use of an electronic tester or scan tool will be noted at the beginning of the procedure by means of a DVOM symbol Although information in this manual is based on industry sources and is complete as possible at the time of publication, the possibility exists that some manufacturers made later changes which could not be included here. While striving for total accuracy, Seloc Publishing cannot assume responsibility for any errors, changes or omissions that may occur in the compilation of this data. We must therefore warn you to follow instructions carefully, using common sense. If you are uncertain of a procedure, seek help by inquiring with someone in your area who is familiar with these motors before proceeding. Part numbers listed in this reference are not recommendations by Seloc Publishing for any particular product brand name, simply iterations of the manufacturer's suggestions. They are also references that can be used with interchange manuals and aftermarket supplier catalogs to locate each brand supplier's discrete part number. Special tools are recommended by the manufacturers to perform a specific job. Use has been kept to a minimum, but, where absolutely necessary, they are referred to in the text by the part number of the manufacturer if at all possible; and also noted at the beginning of each procedure with one of the following symbols: OEM or DVOM. The OEM symbol usually denotes the need for a unique tool purposely designed to accomplish a specific task, it will also be used, less frequently, to notify the reader of the need for a tool that is not commonly found in the average tool box. The DVOM symbol is used to denote the need for an electronic test tool like an ohmmeter, multi-meter or, on certain later engines, a scan tool. These tools can be purchased, under the appropriate part number, from your local dealer or regional distributor, or an equivalent tool can be purchased locally from a tool supplier or parts outlet. Before substituting any tool for the one recommended, read the SAFETY NOTICE at the top of this page. Providing the correct mix of service and repair procedures is an endless battle for any publisher of "How-To" information. Users range from first time do-it yourselfers to professionally trained marine technicians, and information important to one is frequently irrelevant to the other. The editors at Seloc Publishing strive to provide accurate and articulate information on all facets of marine engine repair, from the simplest procedure to the most complex. In doing this, we understand that certain procedures may be outside the capabilities of the average DIYer. Conversely we are aware that many procedures are unnecessary for a trained technician.

SKILL LEVELS In order to provide all of our users, particularly the DIYers, with a feeling for the scope of a given procedure or task before tackling it we have included a rating system denoting the suggested skill level needed when performing a particular procedure. One of the following icons will be included at the peginning of most procedures: SY EASY. These procedures are aimed primarily at the DIYer and can be classified, for the most part, as basic maintenance procedures; battery, fluids, filters, plugs, etc. Although certainly valuable to any experience level, they will generally be of little importance to a technician. J MODERATE. These procedures are suited for a DIYer with experience and a working knowledge of mechanical procedures. Even an advance~ DIYer or professional technician will occasionally refer to these procedures. They will generally consist of component repair and service procedures, adjustments and minor rebuilds. DIFFICULT. These procedures are aimed at the advanced DIYer and professional technician. They will deal with diagnostics, rebuilds and internal engine/drive components and will frequently require special tools. ILLED SKILLED. These procedures are .armed at highly skilled technici~ns and should not be attempted without previous experience. They will usually consist of machine work, internal engine work and gear case rebuilds. Pleas·e rnrnerl18er one .· thing wfien corisiderinci/the~b()~~ ratings2..th~yar~ aguid~"tor ju't.f~ihgthe • C:omptexity of a given procedure and are subjective in nature. Only you will know.what your experience level is, and only you will know when a procedure may be outside the realm of your .capability. First time DI Yer, or life-long marine technician, we all approach repair and service differently so an easy procedure for one person may be a difficult proc~dure for another, regarqles?. of exp.erience level. All .;! :>kill level /~tings are meam to . be used as a guide only! Use them to help make a judgement before undertal<ing a particula{ procedure, but by all means read through the procedure first and make your own decision-after all, our mission at Seloc is to make boat maintenance and repair easier for everyone whether you are changing the oi l or rebuilding an engine. Enjoy boating!

A NOTE ABOUT YAMAHA, NISSAN!TOHATSU AND MERCURY/MARINER. 1-2 ANCHORS ............................ 1-10 AVOIDING THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES .. 1-4 AVOIDING TROUBLE .................... 1-2 BAILING DEVICES ..................... 1-10 BOATING EQUIPMENT • ....... •..• ..... 1-10 ANCHORS ........................... 1-10 BAILING DEVICES .................... 1-10 COMPASS. . .. ...................... 1-10 FIRST AID KIT.. ...................... 1-10 OAR/PADDLE (SECOND MEANS OF PROPULSION) ....................... 1-10 TOOLS & SPARE PARTS ............... 1-12 VHF-FM RADIO ....................... 1-10 BOATING SAFETY .... ••••.• ....... •...• 1-4 COURTESY MARINE EXAMINATIONS .... 1-10 REGULATIONS FOR YOUR BOAT ........ 1-4 REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT ........ 1-5 CAN YOU DO IT? ....................... 1-2 CHEMICALS ........................ 1-17 CLEANERS .......................... 1-18 LUBRICANTS & PENETRANTS .......... 1-18 SEALANTS .......................... 1-18 COMPASS.. . ........................ 1-10 COMPASS PRECAUTIONS ............. 1-12 INSTALLATION ....................... 1-11 SELECTION ......................... 1-10 COURTESY MARINE EXAMINATIONS ..... 1-10 DIRECTIONS & LOCATIONS .............. 1-3 ELECTRONIC TOOLS ................... 1-23 BATTERY CHARGERS ................. 1-24 BATTERYTESTERS ................... 1-23 GAUGES ............................ 1-24 MULTI-METERS (DVOMS) .............. 1-24 FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS ...••..• ......... •.• .... 1·27 BOLTS, NUTS AND OTHER THREADED RETAINERS ......................... 1-27 STANDARD & METRIC MEASUREMENTS. 1-27 TORQUE ............................ 1-27 FIRST AID KIT ......................... 1-10 HAND TOOLS ......................... 1-19 HAMMERS .......................... 1-22 PLIERS ............................. 1-21 SCREWDRIVERS ..................... 1-22 SOCKET SETS ....................... 1-19 WRENCHES ......................... 1-21 HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL .... •.• ...... 1·2 A NOTE ABOUT YAMAHA, NISSAN!TOHATSU AND MERCURY/MARINER ................... 1-2 AVOIDING THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES 1-4 AVOIDING TROUBLE ................. 1-2 CAN YOU DO IT? ...................... 1-2 DIRECTIONS & LOCATIONS ............. 1-3 MAINTENANCE OR REPAIR? ............ 1-2 PROFESSIONAL HELP ................. 1-3 PURCHASING PARTS .................. 1-3 WHERE TO BEGIN .................... 1-2 MAINTENANCE OR REPAIR? ............. 1-2 MEASURING TOOLS ................... 1-25 DEPTH GAUGES ..................... 1-26 DIAL INDICATORS .................... 1-25 MICROMETERS & CALIPERS ........... 1-25 TELESCOPING GAUGES ............... 1-26 OAR/PADDLE (SECOND MEANS OF PROPULSION) ....................... 1-10 OTHER COMMON TOOLS ............... 1-22 PROFESSIONAL HELP ................... 1-3 PURCHASING PARTS ................... 1-3 REGULATIONS FOR YOUR BOAT .......... 1-4 CAPACITY INFORMATION ............... 1-5 CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE. ......... 1-5 DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS ......... 1-4 HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER ......... 1-4 LENGTH OF BOATS .................... 1-5 NUMBERING OF VESSELS .............. 1-4 REGISTRATION OF BOATS .............. 1-4 SALES & TRANSFERS .................. 1-4 VENTILATION ......................... 1-5 VENTILATION SYSTEMS ................ 1-5 REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT .......... 1-5 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS ................. 1-6 PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES ........ 1-7 SOUND PRODUCING DEVICES .......... 1-9 TYPES OF FIRES ...................... 1-5 VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNALS ............ 1-9 WARNING SYSTEM .................... 1-7 SAFETY IN SERVICE .• ..... • .... •..•... 1·13 DO'S ............................... 1-13 DON'TS ............................. 1-13 SAFETY TOOLS ....................... 1-17 EYE & EAR PROTECTION .............. 1-17 WORK CLOTHES ..................... 1-17 WORK GLOVES ...................... 1-17 SHOP EQUIPMENT ........... • ..... •.. 1-17 CHEMICALS ......................... 1-17 SAFETYTOOLS ...................... 1-17 SPECIAL TOOLS ...................... 1-23 SPECIFICATIONS ................. •...• 1-28 BOLTTORQUE - TYPICAL METRIC ...... 1-28 BOLT TORQUE - TYPICAL U.S. STANDARD1-28 CONVERSION FACTORS ............... 1-28 TOOLS ............................... 1·19 ELECTRONIC TOOLS ................. 1-23 HAND TOOLS ........................ 1-19 MEASURING TOOLS .................. 1-25 OTHER COMMON TOOLS .............. 1-22 SPECIAL TOOLS ...................... 1-23 TOOLS & SPARE PARTS ................ 1-12 TROUBLESHOOTING .• ..... •• ..... •.••. 1-13 BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES ........ 1-13 2-STROKE MOTORS ................. 1-14 4-STROKE MOTORS ................ 1-16 COMBUSTION . .. .. .. .. . .. .. .. .. . 1-16 VHF-FM RADIO ........................ 1-10 WHERE TO BEGIN ...................... 1-2

1·2 GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS This manual is designed to be a handy reference guide to maintaining and repairing your Mercury/Mariner Outboard. We strongly believe that regardless of how many or how few year's experience you may have, there is something new waiting here for you. This manual covers many of the topics that a factory service manual (designed for factory trained mechanics) and a manufacturer owner's manual (designed more by lawyers than boat owners these days) covers. It will take you through the basics of maintaining and repairing your outboard, step-by- step, to help you understand what the factory trained mechanics already know by heart. By using the information in this manual, any boat owner should be able to make better informed decisions about what they need to do to maintain and enjoy their outboard. Even if you never plan on touching a wrench (and if so, we hope that we can change your mind), this manual will still help you understand what a mechanic needs to do in order to maintain your engine. 'A Note ~oout Mamalrla, Nissam~lolil.atsu a:m~ Merci:rn~ZMarine~I? It is valuable to realize that starting around 1993 Yamaha and Mercury/Mariner formed a partnership regarding the design and production of powerheads to be used by both companies. During that time Yamaha produced many of the powerheads and components which were used by Mercury/Mariner. However sometime around 2004 the relationship went sour involving disagreements over pricing, specifically on the 75, 90 and 115 hp powerhead produced by Yamaha and sold to Mercury for use on their outboards. These disagreements helped prompt Mercury to seek other sources of powerheads to replace those supplied by Yamaha. For the smaller hp motors Mercury turned to Nissan/Tohatsu and began the rebadging and sale of their powerheads in the 2.5-30 hp range. At the other end of the spectrum Mercury developed their own 75-350 hp motors, all based on the same square (82mm x 82mm bore and stroke) design with both 4-cyl and 6-cyl inline layouts, and with both natural and forced air induction (the later being the supercharged Verado series). Therefore this repair guide is unique in that it contains data and experience compiled from all 3 OEM points of view (along with the benefits and pitfalls of such an approach). Because different engineers will approach the same problem (such as wear/failure analysis or component testing) differently, each company has provided slightly different technical information, specifications, and procedures for the same powerheads or components. Therefore, we have been able to compare and contrast the information provided by the technical departments of each company, sometimes giving you additional information on service, specifications and testing for each model. As such, there may be times where we will reference alternate techniques or specifications which came to our attention not from Mercury/Mariner, but from Yamaha or Nissan/Tohatsu instead. Also, keep in mind that because of differences in testing philosophies the same tests or specifications for tests available for one powerhead listed here may not be available for a different powerhead listed here. For instance, it seems that Yamaha often preferred cranking or running voltage output tests for certain electronic components, whereas Mercury preferred static resistance checks. As such you won't voltage tests for many of the Mercury and Nissan/Tohatsu powerheads, just as you won't always find resistance checks for the Yamaha powerheads. We'll talk more about the identify of the powerheads (which share parts/design with Yamaha or Nissan/Tohatsu models) later in this guide, under Engine Identification. If you are not the type who is prone to taking a wrench to something, NEVER FEAR. The procedures provided here cover topics at a level virtually anyone will be able to handle. And just the fact that you purchased this manual shows your interest in better understanding your outboard. You may even find that maintaining your outboard yourself is preferable in most cases. From a monetary standpoint, it could also be beneficial. The money spent on hauling your boat to a marina and paying a tech to service the engine could buy you fuel for a whole weekend of boating. And, if you are really that unsure of your own mechanical abilities, at the very least you should fully understand what a marine mechanic does to your boat. You may decide that anything other than maintenance and adjustments should be performed by a mechanic (and that's your call), but if so you should know that every time you board your boat, you are placing faith in the mechanic's work and trusting him or her with your well-being, and maybe your life. It should also be noted that in most areas a factory-trained mechanic will command a hefty hourly rate for off site service. If the tech comes to you this hourly rate is often charged from the time they leave their shop to the time that they return home. When service is performed at a boat yard, the clock usually starts when they go out to get the boat and bring it into the shop and doesn't end until it is tested and put back in the yard. The cost savings in doing the job yourself might be readily apparent at this point. Of course, if even you're already a seasoned Do-lt-Yourselfer or a Professional Technician, you'll find the procedures, specifications, special tips as well as the schematics and illustrations helpful when tackling a new job on a motor. II To help you decide if a task is within your skill level, procedures will often be rated using a wrench symbol in the text. When present, the number of wrenches designates how difficult we feel the procedure to be on a 1-4 scale. For more details on the wrench icon rating system, please refer to the information under Skill Levels at the beginning of this manual. Wlrlere to Begin Before spending any money on parts, and before removing any nuts or bolts, read through the entire procedure or topic. This will give you the overall view of what tools and supplies will be required to perform the procedure or what questions need to be answered before purchasing parts. So read ahead and plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures thoroughly understood before attempting any work. Some procedures in this manual may require you to "label and disconnect . .. " a group of lines, hoses or wires. Don't be lulled into thinking you can remember where everything goes - you won't. If you reconnect or install a part incorrectly, the motor may operate poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you may instantly learn a very expensive lesson. A piece of masking tape, for example, placed on a hose and another on its fitting will allow you to assign your own label such as the letter "A", or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, you can reconnect the lines by matching letters or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve when saturated in some fluids (especially cleaning solvents). If a component is to be washed or cleaned, use another method of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker can be very handy for marking metal parts; but remember that some solvents will remove permanent marker, A scribe can be used to carefully etch a small mark in some metal parts, but be sure NOT to do that on a gasket-making surface. SAFETY is the most important thing to remember when performing maintenance or repairs. Be sure to read the information on safety in this manual. Maintenamce OG Be~airl? Proper maintenance is the key to long and trouble-free engine life, and the work can yield its own rewards. A properly maintained engine performs better than one that is neglected. As a conscientious boat owner, set aside a Saturday morning, at least once a month, to perform a thorough check of items that could cause problems. Keep your own personal log to jot down which services you performed, how much the parts cost you, the date, and the amount of hours on the engine at the time. Keep all receipts for parts purchased, so that they may be referred to in case of related problems or to determine operating expenses. As a do-it-yourselfer, these receipts are the only proof you have that the required maintenance was performed. In the event of a warranty problem (on new motors), these receipts can be invaluable. It's necessary to mention the difference between maintenance and repair. Maintenance includes routine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of parts that show signs of normal wear. Maintenance compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies that something has broken or is not working. A need for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance.

GENERAL INFORMATION SAFETY AND TOOLS 1-3 For example: draining and refilling the gearcase oil is maintenance recommended by all manufacturers at specific intervals. Failure to do this can allow internal corrosion or damage and impair the operation of the motor, requiring expensive repairs. While no maintenance program can prevent items from breaking or wearing out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS CHEAPER THAN REPAIR. Wireetioms amCI li:!ocatioms + See Figure 1 Two basic rules should be mentioned here. First, whenever the Port side of the engine (or boat) is referred to, it is meant to specify the left side of the engine when you are sitting at the helm. Conversely, the Starboard means your right side. The Bow is the front of the boat and the Stern or Aft is the rear. Most screws and bolts are removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. An easy way to remember this is: righty- tighty; lefty-loosey. Corny, but effective. And if you are really dense (and we have all been so at one time or another), buy a ratchet that is marked ON and OFF (like Snap-on® ratchets), or mark your own. This can be especially helpful when you are bent over backwards, upside down or otherwise turned around when working on a boat-mounted component. e11ofessiomal fflel~ Occasionally, there are some things when working on an outboard that are beyond the capabilities or tools of the average Do-It- Yourself er (DIYer). This shouldn't include most of the topics of this manual, but you will have to be the judge. Some engines require special tools or a selection of special parts, even for some basic maintenance tasks. Talk to other boaters who use the same model of engine and speak with a trusted marina to find if there is a particular system or component on your engine that is difficult to maintain. You will have to decide for yourself where basic maintenance ends and where professional service should begin. Take your time and do your research first (starting with the information contained within) and then make your own decision. If you really don't feel comfortable with attempting a procedure, DON'T DO IT. If you've gotten into something that may be over your head, don't panic. Tuck your tail between your legs and call a marine mechanic. Marinas and independent shops will be able to finish a job for you. Your ego may be damaged, but your boat will be properly restored to its full running order. So, as long as you approach jobs slowly and carefully, you really have nothing to lose and everything to gain by doing it yourself. On the other hand, even the most complicated repair is within the ability of a person who takes their time and follows the steps of a procedure. A rock climber doesn't run up the side of a cliff, he/she takes it one step at a time and in the end, what looked difficult or impossible was conquerable. Worry about one step at a time. (REAR) SELOC 1422 STERN -- AFT - Fig. 1 Common terminology used for reference designation on boats of all size. These terms are used through out the text + See Figures 2 and 3 When purchasing parts there are two things to consider. The first is quality and the second is to be sure to get the correct part for your engine .. To get quality parts, always deal directly with a reputable retailer. To get the proper parts always refer to the model number from the information tag on your engine prior to calling the parts counter. An incorrect part can adversely affect your engine performance and fuel economy, and will cost you more money and aggravation in the end. Just remember a tow back to shore will cost plenty. That charge is per hour from the time the towboat leaves their home port, to the time they return to their home port. Get the picture ... $$$? So whom should you call for parts? Well, there are many sources for the parts you will need. Where you shop for parts will be determined by what kind of parts you need, how much you want to pay, and the types of stores in your neighborhood. Your marina can supply you with many of the common parts you require. Using a marina as your parts supplier may be handy because of location (just walk right down the dock) or because the marina specializes in your particular brand of engine. In addition, it is always a good idea to get to know the marina staff (especially the marine mechanic). The marine parts jobber, who is usually listed in the yellow pages or whose name can be obtained from the marina, is another excellent source for parts. In addition to supplying local marinas, they also do a sizeable business in over-the-counter parts sales for the do-it-yourselfer. Almost every boating community has one or more convenient marine chain stores. These stores often offer the best retail prices and the Fig. 3 Parts catalogs, giving application and part number information, are provided by manufacturers for most replacement parts

1 .. 4 GENERAL INFORMATION, SAFETY AND TOOLS convenience of one-stop shopping for all your needs. Since they cater to the do-it-yourselfer, these stores are almost always open weeknights, Saturdays, and Sundays, when the jobbers are usually closed. The lowest prices for parts are most often found in discount stores or the auto department of mass merchandisers. Parts sold here are name and private brand parts bought in huge quantities, so they can offer a competitive price. Private brand parts are made by major manufacturers and sold to large chains under a store label. And, of course, more and more large automotive parts retailers are stocking basic marine supplies. · l'xt;aiiilim~ Uiei Mast @omman l'\llistal<es There are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work: 1. Following the incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or adjustment. When taking something apart or putting it together, performing steps in the wrong order usually just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break something. Read the entire procedure before beginning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in which the instructions say you should, even if you can't immediately see a reason for it. When you're taking apart something that is very intricate, you might want to draw a picture of how it looks when assembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. When making adjustments, perform them in the proper order; often, one adjustment affects another, and you cannot expect satisfactory results unless each adjustment is made only when it cannot be changed by subsequent adjustments. In 1971 Congress ordered the U.S. Coast Guard to improve recreational boating safety. In response, the Coast Guard drew up a set of regulations. Aside from these federal regulations, there are state and local laws you must follow. These sometimes exceed the Coast Guard requirements. This section discusses only the federal laws. State and local laws are available from your local Coast Guard. As with other laws, "Ignorance of the boating laws is no excuse." The rules fall into two groups: regulations for your boat and required safety equipment on your boat. Most boats on waters within Federal jurisdiction must be registered or documented. These waters are those that provide a means of transportation between two or more states or to the sea. They also include the territorial waters of the United States. DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS A vessel of five or more net tons may be documented as a yacht. In this process, papers are issued by the U.S. Coast Guard as they are for large ships. Documentation is a form of national registration. The boat must be used solely for pleasure. Its owner must be a citizen of the U.S., a partnership of U.S. citizens, or a corporation controlled by U.S. citizens. The captain and other officers must also be U.S. citizens. The crew need not be. If you document your yacht, you have the legal authority to fly the yacht ensign. You also may record bills of sale, mortgages, and other papers of title with federal authorities. Doing so gives legal notice that such instruments exist. Documentation also permits preferred status for mortgages. This gives you additional security, and it aids in financing and transfer of title. You must carry the original documentation papers aboard your vessel. Copies will not suffice. REGISTRATION OF BOATS If your boat is not documented, registration in the state of its principal use is probably required. If you use it mainly on an ocean, a gulf, or other similar water, register it in the state where you moor it. If you use your boat solely for racing, it may be exempt from the requirement in your state. Some states may also exclude dinghies, while others require registration of documented vessels and non-power driven boats. All states, except Alaska, register boats. In Alaska, the U.S. Coast Guard issues the registration numbers. If you move your vessel to a new state of principal use, a valid registration certificate is good for 60 days. You must have the registration certificate (certificate of number) aboard your vessel II Digital cameras are handy. If you've got access to one, take pictures of intricate assemblies during the disassembly process and refer to them during assembly for lips on part orientation. 3. Over-torquing (or under-torquing). While it is more common for over- torquing to cause damage, under-torquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose causing serious damage. Especially when dealing with plastic and aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifications and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a torque figure is not available, remember that if you are using the right tool to perform the job, you will probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight that the tension you put on the wrench will be multiplied many times in actual force on what you are tightening. 4. Cross-threading. This occurs when a part such as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubricate fasteners, then to start threading with the part to be installed positioned straight inward. Always start a fastener, etc. with your fingers. If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and start over again at a different angle until it can be inserted and turned several times without much effort. Keep in mind that some parts may have tapered threads, so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part you're threading to the proper angle, but only if you don't force it or resist a change in angle. Don't put a wrench on the part until it has been tightened a couple of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resistance, and the part has not seated fully, don't force it. Pull it back out to make sure it's clean and threading properly. when it is in use. A copy will not suffice. You may be cited if you do not have the original on board. NUMBERING OF VESSELS A registration number is on your registration certificate. You must paint or permanently attach this number to both sides of the forward half of your boat. Do not display any other number there. The registration number must be clearly visible. It must not be placed on the obscured underside of a flared bow. It you can't place the number on the bow, place it on the forward half of the hull. If that doesn't work, put it on the superstructure. Put the number for an inflatable boat on a bracket or fixture. Then, firmly attach it to the forward halt of the boat. The letters and numbers must be plain block characters and must read from left to right. Use a space or a hyphen to separate the prefix and suffix letters from the numerals. The color of the characters must contrast with that of the background, and they must be at least three inches high. In some states your registration is good for only one year. In others, it is good for as long as three years. Renew your registration before it expires. At that time you will receive a new decal or decals. Place them as required by state law. You should remove old decals before putting on the new ones. Some states require that you show only the current decal or decals. If your vessel is moored, it must have a current decal even if it is not in use. If your vessel is lost, destroyed, abandoned, stolen, or transferred, you must inform the issuing authority. If you lose your certificate of number or your address changes, notify the issuing authority as soon as possible. SALES AND TRANSFERS Your registration number is not transferable to another boat. The number stays with the boat unless its state of principal use is changed. HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER A Hull Identification Number (HIN) is like the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on your car. Boats built between November 1, 1972 and July 31, 1984 have old format HINs. Since August 1, 1984 a new format has been used. Your boat's HIN must appear in two places. If it has a transom, the primary number is on its starboard side within two inches of its top. If it does not have a transom or if it was not practical to use the transom, the number is on the starboard side. In this case, it must be within one foot of the stern and within two inches of the top of the hull side. On pontoon boats, it is on the aft crossbeam within one foot of the starboard hull attachment. Your boat also has a duplicate number in an unexposed location. This is on the boat's interior or under a fitting or item of hardware.

GENERAL INFORMATION SAFETY AND TOOLS 1 .. 5 LENGTH OF BOATS For some purposes, boats are classed by length. Required equipment, for example, differs with boat size. Manufacturers may measure a boat's length in several ways. Officially, though, your boat is measured along a straight line from its bow to its stern. This line is parallel to its keel. The length does not include bowsprits, boomkins, or pulpits. Nor does it include rudders, brackets, outboard motors, outdrives, diving platforms, or other attachments. CAPACITY INFORMATION + See Figure 4 Manufacturers must put capacity plates on most recreational boats less than 20 feet long. Sailboats, canoes, kayaks, and inflatable boats are usually exempt. Outboard boats must display the maximum permitt~d horse~ower of their engines. The plates must also show the allowable maximum weights of the people on board. And they must show the allowable maximum combined weights of people, engine(s), and gear. Inboards and stern drives need not show the weight of their engines on their capacity plates. The capacity plate must appear where it is clearly visible to the operator when underway. This information serves to remind you of the capacity of your boat under normal circumstances. You should ask yourself, "Is my boat loaded above its recommended capacity" and, "Is my boat overloaded for the present sea and wind conditions?" If you are stopped by a legal authority, you may be cited if you are overloaded. CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE + See Figure 4 Manufacturers are required to put compliance plates on motorboats greater than 20 feet in length. The plates must say, "This boat," or '.'This equipment complies with the U.S. Coast Guard Safety Standards in effect on the date of certification." Letters and numbers can be no less than one- eighth of an inch high. At the manufacturer's option, the capacity and compliance plates may be combined. VENTILATION A cup of gasoline spilled in the bilge has the potential explosive power of 15 sticks of dynamite. This statement, commonly quoted over 20 years ago, may be an exaggeration; however, it illustrates a fact. Gasoline fumes in .the bilge of a boat are highly explosive and a serious danger. They are heavier than air and will stay in the bilge until they are vented out. Because of this danger, Coast Guard regulations require ventilation on many powerboats. There are several ways to supply fresh air to engine and gasoline tank compartments and to remove dangerous vapors. Whatever the choice, it must meet Coast Guard standards. Fig. 4 A U.S. Coast Guard certification plate indicates the amount of occupants and gear appropriate for safe operation of the vessel (and allowable engine size for outboard boats) Ill The following is not intended to be a complete discussion of the regulations. It is limited to the majority of recreational vessels. Contact your local Coast Guard office for further information. General Precautions Ventilation systems will not remove raw gasoline that leaks from tanks or fuel lines. If you smell gasoline fumes, you need immediate repairs. The best device for sensing gasoline fumes is your nose. Use it! If you smell gasoline in a bilge, engine compartment, or elsewhere, don't start your engine. The smaller the compartment, the less gasoline it takes to make an explosive mixture. Ventilation for Open Boats In open boats, gasoline vapors are dispersed by the air that moves through them. So they are exempt from ventilation requirements. To be "open," a boat must meet certain conditions. Engine and fuel tank compartments and long narrow compartments that join them must be open to the atmosphere." This means they must have at least 15 square inches of open area for each cubic foot of net compartment volume. The open area must be in direct contact with the atmosphere. There must also be no long, unventilated spaces open to engine and fuel tank compartments into which flames could extend. Ventilation for All Other Boats Powered and natural ventilation are required in an enclosed compartment with a permanently installed gasoline engine that has a cranking motor. A compartment is exempt if its engine is open to the atmosphere. Diesel powered boats are also exempt. VENTILATION SYSTEMS There are two types of ventilation systems. One is "natural ventilation." In it, air circulates through closed spaces due to the boat's motion. The other type is "powered ventilation." In it, air is circulated by a motor-driven fan or fans. Natural Ventilation System Requirements A natural ventilation system has an air supply from outside the boat. The air supply may also be from a ventilated compartment or a compartment open to the atmosphere. Intake openings are required. In addition, intake ducts may be required to direct the air to appropriate compartments. The system must also have an exhaust duct that starts in the lower third of the compartment. The exhaust opening must be into another ventilated compartment or into the atmosphere. Each supply opening and supply duct, if there is one, must be above the usual level of water in the bilge. Exhaust openings and ducts must also be above the bilge water. Openings and ducts must be at least three square inches in area or two inches in diameter. Openings should be placed so exhaust gasses do not enter the fresh air intake. Exhaust fumes must not enter cabins or other enclosed, non- ventilated spaces. The carbon monoxide gas in them is deadly. Intake and exhaust openings must be covered by cowls or similar devices. These registers keep out rain water and water from breaking seas. Most often, intake registers face forward and exhaust openings aft. This aids the flow of air when the boat is moving or at anchor since most boats face into the wind when properly anchored. Power Ventilation System Requirements + See Figure 5 Powered ventilation systems must meet the standards of a natural system, but in addition, they must also have one or more exhaust blowers. The blower duct can serve as the exhaust duct tor natural ventilation if fan blades do not obstruct the air flow when not powered. Openings in engine compartment, for carburetion are in addition to ventilation system requirements. Coast Guard regulations require that your boat have certain equipment aboard. These requirements are minimums. Exceed them whenever you can. TYPES OF FIRES There are four common classes of fires: " Class A - fires are of ordinary combustible materials such as paper or wood.

2006 Mercury 2.5-350 HP 4-Stroke (1-4 Cylinder/V6/V8) Outboards OEM Service & Repair Manual

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