1956-1970 1,5-40hp Outboard Repair Manual

TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 SAFETY TOP SEAL 3-12 Removal 3-12 INTRODUCTION 1-1 BOTTOM SEAL 3-13 CLEANING, WAXING, Inspection 3-14- AND POLISHING 1-1 CENTERING PINS 3-15 CONTROLLING CORROSION 1-2 PROPELLERS 1-2 MAIN BEARING BOLTS FUEL SYSTEM 1-7 AND CRANKCASE SIDE BOLTS 3-15 LOADING 1-9 CRANKCASE COVER 3-16 HORSEPOWER 1-10 Removal 3-16 FLOTATION 1-10 Cleaning and Inspecting 3-16 EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT 1-12 CONNECTING RODS COMPASS 1-15 AND PISTONS 3-16 STEERING 1-17 Removal 3-17 ANCHORS 1-17 Disassembly 3-18 MISCELLANEOUS EQUIP MENT 1-18 Rod Inspection BOATING ACCIDENT REPORTS 1-19 and Service 3-21 NAVIGATION 1-19 Piston and Ring Inspection and Service 3-22 2 TUNING Assembling 3-24- CRANKSHAFT 3-27 INTRODUCTION 2-1 Removal 3-27 TUNE-UP SEQUENCE 2-2 Cleaning and Inspection 3-27 COMPRESSION CHECK 2-3 Assembling 3-28 SPARK PLUG INSPECTION 2-4- IGNITION SYSTEM 2-4- CYLINDER BLOCK SERVICE 3-28 SYNCHRONIZING 2-5 Honing Procedures 3-29 BATTERY SERVICE 2-5 Assembling 3-30 CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS 2-7 Piston and Rod Assembly FUEL PUMPS 2-9 Installation 3-30 ST AR TER AND SOLENOID 2-10 Crankshaft Installation INTERNAL WIRING HARNESS 2-11 Large Horsepower Engines WATER PUMP CHECK 2-12 15 hp to 4-0hp 3-33 PROPELLER 2-13 Crankshaft Installation LOWER UNIT 2-14- Small Horsepower Engines BOAT TESTING 2-15 1.5 hp, 5.0 hp, 5.5 hp, 6.0 hp, 9.5 hp 3-35 3 POWERHEAD Crankshaft Installation Small Horsepower Engines INTRODUCTION 3-1 3.0 hp, 4-.0 hp, 7.5 hp 3-37 Theory of Operation 3-1 Crankcase Cover Installation 3-38 CHAPTER ORGANIZATION 3-4- Main Bearing Bolt and Crankcase POWERHEAD DISASSEMBLING 3-5 Side Bolt Installation 3-39 HEAD SERVICE 3-5 Bottom Seal Installation REED SERVICE 3-6 15 hp to 4-0hp Engines 3-39 Description 3-6 Exhaust Cover and Bypass Reed Valve Adjustment 3-8 Cover Installation 3-4-0 Cleaning and Service 3-9 Reed Box Installation 3-4-0 BYPASS COVERS 3-10 Head Installation 3-4-1 EXHAUST COVER 3-11 BREAK-IN PROCEDURES 3-4-1 Cleaning 3-11 EXPLODED DRAWINGS 3-4-2- 3-50

". FUEL SYNCHRONIZA TION FUEL AND IGNITION SYSTEMS 5-26 INTRODUCTION 4--1 Primary Pickup Adjustments GENERAL CARBURETION and Locations 5-26 INFORMATION 4--1 FUEL SYSTEM 4--4- 6 ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING 4--4- Fuel Pump Tests 4--6 INTRODUCTION 6-1 Fuel Line Test 4--7 BATTERIES 6-1 Testing with Pressure Tank 4--8 Mar ine Batteries 6-1 Rough Engine Idle 4--10 Battery Construction 6-2 Excessive Fuel Consumption 4--11 Battery Location 6-2 CARBURETORS 4--12 Battery Service 6-2 TYPE I CARBURETOR 4--13 Jumper Cables 6-5 Removal and Disassembling 4--13 Dual Battery Installation 6-5 Cleaning and Inspecting 4--15 GAUGES AND HORNS 6-7 Assembling 4--16 Constant-Voltage System 6-7 CHOKE SYSTEM SERVICE 4--23 SERVICE PROCEDURES 6-7 Heat/Electric Choke 4--23 Temperature Gauges 6-7 All Electric Choke 4--25 Warning Lights Water Choke 4--26 Thermomelt Sticks 6-8 TYPE II CARBURETOR 4--28 FUEL SYSTEM 6-8 Disassembling 4--28 Fuel Gauge 6-8 Cleaning and Inspecting 4--31 Fuel Gauge Hookup 6-8 Assembling 4--33 Troubleshooting 6-9 ASSEMBLING CHOKES TO TACHOMETER 6-10 TYPE II CARBURETORS 4--38 HORNS 6-10 Adjustments 4--42 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GENERAL TYPE III CARBURETORS 4--43 INFORMA TION 6-11 Removal 4--4-3 CHARGING CIRCUIT SERVICE 6-12 Cleaning and Inspecting 4--45 Troubleshooting 6-12 Assembling 4--47 Generator Service 6-16 Adjustments 4--50 Armature Testing 6-17 FUEL PUMP SERVICE 4--51 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-18 Troubleshooting 4--52 Assembling 6-20 Removal and Repair 4--52 CHOKE CIRCUIT SERVICE 6-22 Cleaning and Inspecting 4-54- STARTER MOTOR CIRCUIT Assembling and Installation 4--54- SERVICE 6-22 FUEL TANK AND LINE SERVICE 4--57 Circuit Description 6-22 Disassembling 4--58 Starter Motor Description 6-22 Cleaning and Inspecting 4--61 Troubleshooting 6-24 Assembling 4--61 Testing 6-25 LATE MODEL FUEL TANK STARTER DRIVE GEAR SERVICE 6-26 SERVICE 4--67 Starter Removal 6-26 5 IGNITION Drive Gear Disassembling 6-27 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-27 INTRODUCTION 5-1 Assembling Type I Drive 6-28 SPARK PLUG EVALUATION 5-2 Disassembling Type II 6-28 POLARITY CHECK 5-3 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-28 WIRING HARNESS 5-4- Assembling Type II Drive 6-28 FLYWHEEL MAGNETO IGNITION 5-5 DELCO-REMY SERVICE 6-29 TROUBLESHOOTING 5-6 Removal 6-29 SERVICING FLYWHEEL MAGNETO Disassembling IGNITION SYSTEM 5-13 6-29 Removal 5-13 Armature Testing 6-30 Cleaning and Inspecting 5-19 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-31 Assembling 5-20 Assembling 6-32

6 ELECTRICAL (CONT) AUTOLITE STARTER MOTOR SERVICE 6-34 Removal 6-34 Disassembling 6-35 Armature Testing 6-35 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-37 Assembling 6-37 PRESTOLITE STARTER MOTOR SERVICE 6-39 Removal 6':'39 Disassembling 6-40 Armature Testing 6-40 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-42 Assembling 6-43 STARTER MOTOR TESTING 6-44 STARTER MOTOR INSTALLATION 6-44 7 ACCESSORIES INTRODUCTION SHIFT BOXES Description OLD-STYLE DOUBLE LEVER Troubleshooting Disassembling Cleaning and Inspection Assembling NEW-STYLE SHIFT LEVER Troubleshooting Removal Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling ELECTRIC GEAR BOXES AND SINGLE LEVER CONTROL 7-12 Troubleshooting 7-12 Disassembling 7-14 Cleaning and Inspecting 7-15 Assembling 7-16 PUSH BUTTON SHIFT BOX SERVICE EVINRUDE UNITS ONLY 7-18 Troubleshooting 7-19 Disassembling 7-21 Cleaning and Inspecting 7-22 Assembling 7-22 CABLE END FITTING INSTALLA- TION AT THE ENGINE END 7-24 8· LOWER UNIT 7-1 7-1 7-1 7-3 7-3 7-4 7-5 7-5 7-6 7-6 7-8 7-8 7-9 7-10 DESCRIPTION Chapter Coverage Illustrations TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL SHIFT PROPELLER REMOVAL 8-1 8-1 8-2 8-2 8-7 DRAINING LOWER UNIT LOWER UNIT SERVICE 1.5 hp to 4.0 hp -- NO SHIFT Lower Unit Removal Water Pump Removal Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling Water Pump Installation Lower Unit Installation Filling the Lower Unit Propeller Installation LOWER UNIT SERVICE MANUAL SHIFT -- 5 HP TO 25 HP Removal Water Pump Removal Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling Water Pump Installation Lower Unit Installation LOWER UNIT SERVICE MANUAL SHIFT -- 28 HP TO 40 HP Removal Water Pump Removal Disassem bling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling Lower Unit Installation ELECTROMA TIC LOWER UNIT Description Troubleshooting Removal Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling Water Pump Installation Lower Unit Installation 9 HAND STARTERS INTRODUCTION Operation TYPE I STAR TER CYLINDER WITH PINION GEAR 5 HP and 6 HP ENGINES Starter Rope Replacement Removal Installation Starter Removal Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling 8-8 8-8 8-9 8-9 8-10 8-11 8-13 8-14 8-15 8-16 8-16 8-17 8-19 8-19 8-20 8-22 8-28 8-31 8-33 8-36 8-37 8-38 8-38 8-41 8-46 8-50 8-53 8-53 8-53 8-56 8-57 8-65 8-66 8-72 8-74 9-1 9-2 9-3 9-4 9-4 9-4 9-5 9-7 9-7 9-7

9 HAND STARTERS (CONT) - TYPE I STARTER CYLINDER WITH PINION GEAR ALL 9.5 HP ENGINES 9-11 Starter Rope Replacement 9-11 Removal 9-11 Installation 9-12 Starter Removal 9-12 Cleaning and Inspecting 9-14 Assembling 9-14 Installation 9-15 TYPE II STARTER COIL SPRING WITH SWING ARM DRIVE GEAR 3HP1968 4 HP 1969-70 Removal Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling TYPE III STARTER MOUNTED ATOP FL YWHEEL MODEL WITH RETURN SPRINGS 28 HP 1962-63 30 HP1956 35 HP 1957-59 40 HP 1960-63 Removal Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling Rope Installation Starter Installation TYPE III STARTER MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEEL MODEL WITH NO RETURN SPRINGS 28HP1964 33 HP 1965-70 40 HP 1964-70 Removal Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling Rope Installation Starter Installation TYPE III STARTER MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEEL MODEL WITH ONE NYLON PAWL 3 HP 1956-68 5.5 HP 1956-64 7.5 HP 1956-58 10 HP 1956-63 15 HP 1956 18 HP 1956-70 20 HP 1966-70 25 HP 1969-70 9-17 9-17 9-17 9-20 9-20 9-23 9-24 9-26 9-27 9-29 9-30 9-31 9-32 9-34 9-34 9-37 9-39 9-39 Removal 9-40 Disassembling 9-40 Cleaning and Inspecting 9-42 Assembling 9-43 Rope Installation 9-43 Starter Installation 9-46 10 MAINTENANCE INTRODUCTION ENGINE SERIAL NUMBERS FIBERGLASS HULLS ALUMINUM HULLS BELOW WATERLINE SERVICE SUBMERGED ENGINE SERVICE WINTER STORAGE LOWER UNIT SERVICE Propeller BATTERY STORAGE PRESEASON PREPARATION 10-1 10-2 10-3 10-3 10-4 10-5 10-7 10-9 10-9 10-13 10-13 APPENDIX METRIC CONVERSION CHART DRILL SIZE CONVERSION CHART TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS POWERHEAD SPECS TUNE-UP SPECS GEAR OIL CAPACITIES STARTER MOTOR SPECS REGULA TOR SPECS GENERATOR SPECS CONDENSER SPECS STAR TER ROPE SPECS A-I A-2 A-3 A-4 & A-5 A-6 to AI0 A-ll A-12 A-12 A-12 A-13 A-14 WIRE INDENTIFICATION ORA WINGS 20 hp and 25 hp -- 1971-72 A-15 33 hp with Generator -- 1965-67 A-16 33 hp with Generator -- 1968 A-17 33 hp with Generator -- 1969-70 A-18 35hp--1957-59 A-19 40 hp Standard Shift with Generator -- 1960-66 A-20 40 hp Standard Shift with Generator -- 1967-68 A-21 40 hp Standard Shift with Generator -- 1969-70 A-22 40 hp Electric Shift with Generator -- 1961-66 A-23 40 hp Electric Shift with Generator -- 1967-68 A-24 40 hp Electric Shift with Generator -- 1969-70 A-25

1 SAFETY 1-1 INTRODUCTION Your boat probably represents a sizeable investment for you. In order to protect this investment and to receive the maximum amount of enjoyment from your boat it must be cared for properly while being used and when it is out of the water. Always store your boat with the bow higher than the stern and be sure to remove the transom drain plug and the inner hull drain plugs. If you use any type of cover to protect your boat, plastic, canvas, whatever, be sure to allow for some movement of air through the hull. Proper ventilation will assure evaporation of any condensation that may form due to changes in temperature and humidity. 1-2 CLEANING, \VAXING, AND POLISHING An outboard boat should be washed with clear water after each use to remove surface dirt and any salt deposits from use in sal t water. Regular rinsing will extend the time between waxing and polishing. It will also give you "pride of ownership", by having a sharp looking piece of equipment. Elbow grease, a mild detergent, and a brush Whenever the boat is stored, for long or short periods, the bow should be slightly higher than the stern and the drain plug in the transom removed to ensure proper drainage of rain water. will be required to remove stubborn dirt, oil, and other unsightly deposits. Stay away from harsh abrasives or strong chemical cleaners. A white buffing com- pound can be used to restore the original gloss to a scratched, dull, or faded area. The finish of your boat should be thoroughly cleaned, buffed, and polished at least once each season. Take care when buffing or polishing with a marine cleaner not to over- heat the surface you are working, because you will burn it. A small outboard engine mounted on an aluminum boat should be removed from the boat and stored separately. Under all cir- cumstances, any outboard engine must AL- WA YS be stored with the power head higher than the lower unit and exhaust system. This position will prevent water trapped in the lower unit from draining back through the exhaust ports into the power head. Lower unit badly corroded because the zinc was not replaced. Once the zinc is destroyed, more costly parts will be damaged. Attention to the zinc condition is extremely important during boat operation in salt water.

1-2 SAFETY A new zinc prior to installation. This inexpensive item will save corrosion on more valuable parts. Most outboard engines have a flat area on the back side of the powerhead. When the engine is placed with the flat area on the power head and the lower unit resting on the floor, the engine will be in the proper altitude with the power head higher than the lower unit. 1-3 CONTROLLING CORROSION Since man first started out on the water, corrosion on his craft has been his enemy. The first form was merely rot in the wood and then it was rust, followed by other forms of destructive corrosion in the more modern materials. One defense against corrosion is to use similar metals throughout the boat. Even though this is difficult to do in designing a new boat, particularily the undersides, similar metals should be used whenever and wherever possible. A second defense against corrosion is to insulate dissimilar metals. This can be done by using an exter ior coating of Sea Skin or by insulating them with plastic or rubber gaskets. Using Zinc The proper amount of zinc attached to a boat is extremely important. The use of too much zinc can cause wood burning by plac- ing the metals close together and they become "hot". On the other hand, using too DIAMETER Diameter and pitch are the two basic dimensions of a propeller. The diameter is measured across the circumference of a circle scribed by the propeller blades, as shown. small a zinc plate will cause more rapid deterioration of the metal you- are trying to protect. If in doubt, consider the fact that is is far better to replace the zincs than to replace planking or other expensive metal parts from having an excess of zinc. When installing zinc plates, there are two routes available. One is to install many different zincs on all metal parts and thus run the risk of wood burning. Another route, is to use one large zinc on the transom of the boat and then connect this zinc to every underwater metal part through internal bonding. Of the two choices, the one zinc on the transom is the better way to go. Small outboard engines have a zinc plate attached to the cavitation plate. Therefore, the zinc remains with the engine at all times. 1-4 PROPELLERS As you know, the propeller is actually what moves the boat through the water. This is how it is done. The propeller oper- ates in water in much the manner as a wood screw does in wood. The propeller "bites" into the water as it rotates. Water passes between the blades and out to the rear in the shape of a cone. The propeller "biting" through the water in much the same manner as a wood auger is what propels the boat. Propeller and associated parts in order, washer, shear-pin, and nut, ready for installation.

Arrangement of propeller and associated parts, in order, for a small horsepower engine. Diameter and Pitch Only two dimensions of the propeller are of real interest to the boat owner: the diameter and the pitch. These two dimensions are stamped on the propeller hub and always appear in the same order: the diameter first and then the pitch. For instance, the number 15-19 stamped on the hub, would mean the propeller had a diameter of 15 inches with a pitch of 19. The diameter is the measured distance from the tip of one blade to the tip of the other as shown in the accompanying illustration. The pitch of a propeller is the angle at which the blades are attached to the hub. This figure is expressed in inches of water travel for each revolution of the propeller. In our example of a 15-19 propeller, the propeller should travel 19 inches through the water each time it revolves. If the propeller action was perfect and there was no slippage, then the pitch multiplied by the propeller rpms would be the boat speed. Most outboard manufacturers equip their units with a standard propeller with a diameter and pitch they consider to be best suited to the engine and the boat. Such a propeller allows the engine to run as near to the rated rpm and horsepower (at full throttle) as possible for the boat design. The blade area of the propeller deter- mines its load-carrying capacity. A two- blade propeller is used for high-speed run- ning under very light loads. PROPELLERS 1-3 Shear-pin installed behind the propeller instead of in front of the propeller. A four-blade propeller is installed in boats intended to operate at low speeds under very heavy loads such as tugs, barges, or large houseboats. The three-blade propeller is the happy medium covering the wide range between the high performahce units and the load carrying workhorses. Propeller Selection There is no standard propeller that will do the proper job in very many cases. The list of sizes and weights of boats is almost endless. This fact coupled with the many boat-engine combinations makes the propeller selection for a specific purpose a difficult job. In fact, in many cases the propeller is changed after a few test runs. Proper selection is aided through the use of charts set up for various engines and boats. These charts should be studied and understood when buying a propeller. However, bear in mind, the charts are based on average boats -----10 .. Diagram to explain the pitch dimension of a propeller. The pitch is the theoretical distance a propeller would travel through the water if there was no slippage.

1-4 SAFETY with average loads, therefore, it may be necessary to make a change in size or pitch, in order to obtain the desired results for the hull design or load condition. A wide range of pitch is available for each of the larger horsepower engines. The choice available for the smaller engines, up to about 25 hp, is restricted to one or two sizes. Remember, a low pitch takes a smaller bite of the water than the high pitch propeller. This means the low pitch propeller will travel less distance through the water per revolution. The low pitch will require less horsepower and will allow the engine to run faster and more efficiently. It stands to reason, and it's true, that the high pitch propeller will require more horsepower, but will give faster boat speed if the engine is allowed to tu rn to its rated rpm. If a higher-pitched propeller is installed on a boat, in an effort to get more speed, extra horsepower will be required. If the extra power is not available, the rpms will be reduced to a less efficient level and the actual boat speed will be less than if the lower-pitched propeller had been left installed. All engine manufacturers design their units to operate with full throttle at, or slightly above, the rated rpm. If you run your engine at the rated rpm, you will increase spark plug life, receive better fuel economy, and obtain the best performance CAVITATION BURN o Cavitation (air bubbles) formed at the propeller. Manufacturers are constantly fighting this problem, as explained in the text. from your boat and engine. Therefore, take time to make the proper propeller selection for the rated rpm of your engine at full throttle with what you consider to be an average load. Your boat will then be cor- rectly balanced between engine and propeller throughout the entire speed range. A reliable tachom eter must be used to measure engine speed at full throttle to ensure the engine will achieve full horsepower and operate efficiently and safely. To test for the correct propeller, make your run in a body of smooth water with the lower unit in forward gear at full throttle. Observe the tachometer at full throttle. NEVER run the engine at a high rpm when a flush attachment is installed. If the reading is above the manufacturer's recommended operating range, you must try propellers of greater pitch, until you find the one that allows the engine to operate continually within the recommended full throttle range. If the engine is unable to deliver top performance and you feel it is properly tuned, then the propeller may not be to blame. Operating conditions have a marked effect on performance. For instance, an engine will lose rpm when run in very cold water. It will also lose rpm when run in salt water as compared with fresh water. A hot, low-barometer day will also cause your engine to lose power. Example of a damaged propeller. This unit should have been replaced long before this amount of damage was sustained.

Ventilation Ventilation is the forming of voids in the water just ahead of the propeller blades. Marine propulsion designers are constantly fighting the battle against the formation of these voids due to excessive blade tip speed and engine wear. The voids may be filled with air or water vapor, or they may actually be a partial vacuum. Ventilation may be caused by installing a piece of equipment too close to the lower unit, such as the knot indicator pickup, depth sounder, or bait tank pickup. Vibration Your propeller should be checked reg- ularly to be sure all blades are in good condition. If any of the blades become bent or nicked, this condition will set up vibra- tions in the drive unit and the motor. If the vibration becomes very serious it will cause a loss of power, efficiency, and boat performance. If the vibration is allowed to con- tinue over a period of time it can have a damaging effect on many of the operating parts. Vibration in boats can never be com- pletely eliminated, but it can be reduced by keeping all parts in good working condition and through proper maintenance and lubr i- cation. Vibration can also be reduced in some cases by increasing the number of blades. For this reason, many racers use Rubber hub removed from a propeller. This hub was removed because the hub was slipping in the propeller. PROPELLERS 1-5 two-blade props and luxury cruisers have four- and five-blade props installed. Shock Absorbers The shock absorber in the propeller plays a very important role in protecting the shafting, gears, and engine against the shock of a blow, should the propeller strike an underwater object. The shock absorber allows the propeller to stop rotating at the instant of impact while the power train continues turning. How much impact the propeller is able to withstand before causing the clutch hub to slip is calculated to be more than the force needed to propel the boat, but less than the amount that could damage any part of the power train. Under normal propulsion loads of moving the boat through the water, the hub will not slip. However, it will slip if the propeller strikes an object with a force that would be great enough to stop any part of the power train. I ~~ - 00 RAKE illustration depicting the rake of a propeller, as explained in the text.

1956-1970 1,5-40hp Outboard Repair Manual

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