2007-2013 Peugeot 308 Petrol & Diesel Service & Repair Manual
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Contents LIVING WITH YOUR PEUGEOT 308 Introduction Page 0•4 Safety first! P~ge 0•5 Roadside repairs Introduction Page 0•6 If your car won't start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Identifying leaks Page 0•8 Towing Page 0•9 Wheel changing Page 0•10 Weekly checks Introduction Page 0•12 Underbonnet check points Page 0•12 Engine oil level Page 0•13 Coolant level Page 0 •13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14 Brake and clutch fluid level Page 0•15 Power steeri ng fluid level Page 0•15 Screen washer fluid level Page 0•1 6 Wiper blades ·Page 0•16 Battery Page 0•17 Bulbs and fuses Page 0•17 Lubricants and fluids Page 0•18 Tyre pressures Page 0•18 MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Petrol engine models Page 1A•1 Servicing specifications Page 1A•2 Maintenance schedule Page 1A•3 Maintenance procedures Page 1A•5 Diesel engine models Page 18•1 Servicing specifications Page 18•2 Maintenance schedule Page 18•3 Maintenance procedures Page 18 •5
& Engine and associated systems Non-turbo (VTi) petrol engines in-car repair procedures Turbo (fHP) petrol engines in-car repair procedures Diesel engines in-car repair procedures Transmission Clutch Manual transmission Driveshafts - diesel models Brakes and suspension Body equipment Wiring diagrams Conversion factors Vehicle identification numbers General repair procedures Index Page 2A"1 Page 28"1 Page 2C•i Page 2D"i Page 9 .. 1 Page Page 11"1 Page Page REF•1 Page REF•29
The Peugeot 308 was introduced into the UK in August 2007. At its launch, the 308 was offered with a choice of 1.4 (1360cc), 1.6 (1587cc and 1598cc) and 2.0 litre (1997cc) petrol engines or 1.6 litre (1560cc) and 2.0 litre (1997cc) turbo-diesel engines. It was available in two body styles - a 3- and 5-door Hatchback and in April 2008 the Estate SW (Sports Wagon) model was released. The engines fitted to the 308 range are all versions of the well-proven units which have appeared in many Peugeot/Citroen vehicles over the years, with the 1.6 litre HDI engine developed in a joint venture with the Ford Motor Co. The engine is mounted transversely at the front of vehicle, with the transmission mounted on its left-hand end. All engines are fitted with a manual transmission as standard (an automatic transmission is available on certain engines). All models have fully independent front suspension, incorporating shock absorbers, coil springs and an anti-roll bar. The rear beam axle has a built-in anti-roll bar, with separate shock absorbers and coil spring. A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the range to suit most tastes, including central locking, electric windows and front, side and curtain airbags. An air conditioning system is available on all models. Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, the vehicle should prove reliable and very economical. The engine compartment is well designed, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible. Your Peugeot 308 manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the 'left' and 'right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forward. Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited and Auto Service Tools Limited (asttools.co.uk) who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.
Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards Scalding "Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Buming • Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. Crushing • When working under or near .... c::\ a raised vehicle, always ~ supplement the jack ~ (~t __ $,;, ......mi with axle.stands, /II ~"'(!~ =#'f"' or use dnve-on f l{j_ ramps. Never venture 11 ) l under a car lH which is only supported by a jack. • Take care if loosening or tightening high- torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. Fire • Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. Electric shock • Ignition HT and Xenon headlight voltages can be dangerous, especially to ,.,.. people with ,.r heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't ...r work on or near / " these systems with ) ~ the engine running or J J 1,. $ \ "- the ignition switched on. • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they can contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some 0-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery " Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads. Airbags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and trim panels. Special storage instructions may apply. Diesel injection • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.
o•6 Roadside rs The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. D If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in the P or N position. D Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. D Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Try jump starting using another car. your car though the turns as normal D Is there fuel in the tank? even motor D Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, and then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coils wiring connector. (Note that diesel engines don't normally suffer from damp.) Remove the plastic cover and check the condition and security of the battery connections. Check that the ignition system (as applicable) wiring connectors are securely connected (turbo petrol model shown). Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp. Check the camshaft sensor wmng connectors are securely connected (turbo petrol model shown). Remove the cover and check that all fuses are still in good condition and none have blown.
When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: II' Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. Caution: Remove the key in case the central locking engages when the jump leads are connected !/ Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc} is switched off. Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive(+) terminal of the booster battery. Roadsi J I/ Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case. v Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. V' If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. v Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission}. Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive-belts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if an engine undershield is fitted. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. Engine oil may leak from the drain plug ... Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay. ... or from the base of the oil filter. A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid. Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: D Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. DAlways turn the ignition key to the 'on' position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights work. DThe towing eye is kept inside the spare Unclip the access cover from the rear bumper ... wheel (see Wheel changing) on Hatchback models, and behind the right-hand side luggage compartment trim panel on Estates. To fit the eye, unclip the access cover from the relevant bumper and screw the eye firmly into position (see illustrations). D Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. Caution: On models with automatic transmission, do not tow the car at speeds in excess of 30 mph or for a distance greater than 30 miles. If towing speeds/ distances are to exceed these limits, then the car must be towed with its front wheels off the ground. •.. then screw the towing eye in securely (use wheel brace through eye to tighten) Road D Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. DThe driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. D Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. DOnly drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. Unclip the cover and fit the towing eye to the front of the vehicle
Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. D When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. D Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. D Use hazard warning lights if necessary. 1 The spare wheel and tools are stored in the luggage compartment on Hatchback models. Lift up the carpet and polystyrene storage cover, unclip the tool kit from the centre of the spare wheel. Unscrew the centre fastener and remove the spare wheel. On models with steel wheels, remove the wheel trim/hub cap. D If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. D Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission). On Estate models, the spare wheel and some tools are stored beneath the rear of the vehicle, whilst the remaining tools are stored behind the left-hand plastic trim in the luggage compartment. Pull up the cover in the luggage compartment floor, swivel the cover around and, using the tool supplied in the tool kit behind the plastic trim, rotate the winch bolt anti-clockwise ... Where anti-theft wheel bolts are fitted, pull off the plastic cover using the yellow plastic tool in the tool kit ... D Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this. D If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack. . .. to lower the spare wheel and jack/tool box from under the rear of the vehicle. ... then unscrew the anti-theft bolt using the special tool provided - normally stored in the passenger glovebox or toolkit.
7 With the vehicle still on the ground, use the tool provided to slacken each wheel bolt by half a turn. 10 Fit the spare wheel and screw in the bolts. Lightly tighten the bolts with the wheel brace then lower the car to the ground. Using the puncture repair kit 1 On models without a spare wheel supplied, use the puncture repair kit ... 8 Make sure the jack is located on firm ground, and engage the jack head correctly with the sill. Then raise the jack until the wheel is raised clear of the ground. 11 Securely tighten the wheel bolts in a diagonal sequence then refit the wheel trim/hub cap/wheel bolt covers (as applicable). Stow the punctured wheel and tools back in the boot, and secure them in position (Hatchback models) ... ... and and supplied in the spare wheel well under the rear luggage compartment carpet to inflate the tyre (read instructions with the repair kit before use). 9 Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. Place the wheel under the vehicle sill in case the jack fails. ... on Estate models feed the winch cable through the wheel, locate the cable end in the lid of the tool/jack box, and use the brace to retract the winch cable. Finally .•• D Remove the wheel chock. D Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the next garage and inflate the tyre to the correct pressure. D The wheel bolts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest possible opportunity (see Chapter i A or 18). D Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible, or another puncture will leave you stranded.
Introducing the 2007-2013 Peugeot 308 (Petrol & Diesel) Service & Repair Manual – your comprehensive guide to maintaining and repairing your Peugeot 308. Whether your vehicle is petrol or diesel driven, this manual offers detailed instructions, diagrams, and step-by-step procedures to help you tackle everything from basic oil changes to complex engine and electrical repairs.
This manual covers various models of the Peugeot 308, including:
Peugeot 308 Petrol 1.4L (1360cc) 2007-2013
Peugeot 308 Petrol 1.6L (1598cc) 2007-2013
Peugeot 308 Petrol 1.6L Turbo (1598cc) 2007-2013
Peugeot 308 Diesel 1.6L HDi (1560cc) 2007-2013
Peugeot 308 Diesel 2.0L HDi (1997cc) 2007-2013
From routine maintenance tasks to more advanced repairs, every procedure is clearly explained and illustrated to provide you with the knowledge and confidence needed to keep your Peugeot 308 running smoothly. Invest in this essential service and repair manual today and ensure your vehicle stays in optimal condition for years to come.
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2007-2013 Peugeot 308 Petrol & Diesel Service & Repair Manual