2007 PEUGEOT 107 Service and Repair Manual

ontents LIVING WITH YOUR PEUGEOT 107 Introduction Safety first! Roadside repairs If your car won't start Jump starting Wheel changing Identifying leaks Towing Weekly checks Introduction Underbonnet check points Engine oil level Coolant level Brake fluid level Screen washer fluid level Wiper blades Battery Tyre condition and pressure Electrical systems Lubricants and fluids Tyre pressures MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Peugeot 107 petrol models Servicing specifications Maintenance schedule Maintenance procedures Illegal Copying Page 0•4 Page 0•6 Page 0•7 Page 0•8 Page 0•9 Page 0•9 Page 0•10 Page 0•10 Page 0•11 Page 0•11 Page 0•12 Page 0•12 Page 0•13 Page 0•13 0•14 Page 0•16 Page 1•2 Page 1•3 It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities.

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems Engine in-car repair procedures Engine removal and overhaul procedures Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Fuel system control and exhaust systems and charging systems Transmission Clutch Manual transmission Multi-Mode (2-Tronic) transmission Drives hafts Brakes and suspension Braking system Suspension and steering Body equipment Bodywork and fittings Wiring diagrams REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Fuel economy Conversion factors Buying spare Vehicle identification General repair procedures Jacking and vehicle support Disconnecting the battery Tools and working facilities MOT test checks Fault finding Glossary of technical terms Index on tents Page 2A•1 Page 28•1 Page 3•1 4A•1 48•1 5A•1 58•1 Page 6•1 Page 78•1 10•1 Page 12•21 Page REF•2 REF•6 Page REF•8 Page REF•9 Page REF•10 Page REF•11 Page REF•12 Page REF•25 Page REF•29

o•4 Introduction The Peugeot 107 was introduced into the UK in June 2005, and was built in the same factory as the Toyota Aygo and Citroen C1. Largely designed by Toyota, using the new 1.0 litre, 3-cylinder VVT-i engine in all three vehicles. Complementing the small yet spacious body is a small-capacity engine, which thanks to multipoint injection, four valves per cylinder and variable valve timing, manages to offer the performance of larger units. The engine is mounted transversely at the front of the car. As befits a modern supermini, the 107 offers high levels of passenger safety, with an impact-absorbing bodyshell and highly-rigid cabin, driver and passenger's airbags, and seat belt tensioners. Most of the latest models also have side airbags fitted. Three- and five-door Hatchback models are available; all models have front-wheel-drive, with a five-speed Manual Transmission (MT) or a five-speed Multi-Mode Transmission (MMT), which Peugeot call 2-Tronic. The front suspension is of conventional MacPherson strut type, incorporating lower arms, and an anti-roll bar; at the rear, a semi-independent beam axle is combined with compact under-floor springs to provide a more spacious load area. The 107 has a high equipment level, even at the lower end of the model range. The latest models all feature a driver's airbag, anti-lock brakes, trip computer, engine immobiliser, adjustable folding rear seat, radio/CD and electric power steering - central locking, electric windows and air conditioning are among the equipment fitted higher up the range. For the home mechanic, the 107 is a straightforward car to maintain and repair, since design features have been incorporated to reduce the actual cost of ownership to a minimum, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible. Your Peugeot 107 manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the 'left' and 'right' of the car are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat, facing forwards. Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper tools limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but car manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular car of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Burning • Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. Crushing • When working under or near ~ a raised vehicle, always ~ supplement the jack ~ ~.......,..,, ,?ff,, ~ with axle stands, / //, ~ l.S~ =~J"' or use drive-on / lfJ.======- ~ ramps. Never venture // 1-'--....... ,..,,,.,..., under a car t( l.<;a;:=:::':;f.~i which is only supported by a jack. • Take care if loosening or tightening high- torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. Fire • Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. Electric shock • Ignition HT and Xenon headlight voltages can be dangerous, especially to :-- people with ...r heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't ,...r work on or near / , these systems with ) :;:: the engine running or J J ~ $ \ "- the ignition switched on. • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they can contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. ~J;lqfe:inove rings~ wr(stwatcn etc,. before • ·· \11/:~rklr'!!! ort the veblole - especially the 1;!1ect~;;tJ s~tern. • o~·~uretl'fat a!ly lifting or jacl<irig equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the fob. Safety First! o·s Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some 0-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads. Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and trim panels. Special storage instructions may apply. Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. A Warning: Never expose the hands, ~ face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results. DON'T ,,,,,,,, • 0<;1ri't att~pt te 11~ :a .whtch may.bfl beyond as'Si$taMe, ''J .• Don't allow children or pets to near'. a velil.cle b~ing worked on,

o•6 Roadside repairs The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. If your car won't start and the starter motor doesn't turn D Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. D Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend's car. If your car won't start even though the starter motor turns as normal D Is there fuel in the tank? D Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. A Check the condition and security of the battery connections. B With the ignition off, check that the wiring connectors are securely connected to the three ignition coils. These are positioned C Check that the camshaft wiring plug is securely connected, on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. underneath the upper air filter cover. Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp. D Check that the crankshaft wiring plug is securely connected, on the right-hand side, lower part of the timing chain cover. E With the ignition off, check the fuses and relays in the engine compartment fusebox, behind the battery.

Jump starting wilt get you out ottmuble, but you must correct w~~,,,.vermade the Qatt:erv go fla'tlf!I • . lace, Tt1ere are thlfi*e 1. 1l·"h·e· .. b. a·.tt·wv ... ····h·ll· s .. be ... e. ndrainedby repeate.datt;empts to s.tart, or by leaving the lights ()~ When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: ti' Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. Caution: Remove the key in case the central locking engages when the jump leads are connected ti' Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off. j I ..J Roadside repairs o•? Jump starting ti' Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case. ti' Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. ti' If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. ti' Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission). Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative(-) terminal of the booster battery. Connect the other end of the black jump lead negative (-) terminal to the metal casting bracket on the front of the cylinder head. Make sure that the jump leads will not come In to contact with the cooling fan, drivebelts or any other moving parts on the engine. Start the engine, then with the engine running at fast idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection, ie, negative (black) lead first. Securely refit the plastic cover to the battery positive terminal when completed.

o@a Roadside repairs Wheel changing Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. Preparation D When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. D Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. D Use hazard warning lights if necessary. Changing the wheel 1 The spare wheel and tools are located in the luggage compartment, under the boot carpet. Fold back the carpet, and then lift out the plastic wheel cover. Remove the tool tray, which contains the jack, wheelbrace and towing eye. 4 Locate the jack head below the jacking point nearest the wheel to be changed. The jacking points are between two small indentations in the sill lower edge. Only use the jack on firm, level ground. Ensure that the slot in the jack head engages with the sill flange at the jacking point. D If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. D Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear. D Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the 2 Unscrew the spare wheel retainer anti- clockwise, and then lift out the spare wheel. 5 Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground, then unscrew the wheel bolts and lift the punctured wheel clear. Place the wheel under the vehicle sill in case the jack fails. 7 Lower the car to the ground, and then finally tighten the wheel nuts in a diagonal sequence. Refit the wheel trim (where applicable). Ideally, the wheel nuts should be slackened and retlghtened to the specified torque at the earliest opportunity. one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this. D If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack. 3 On models with alloy wheels, one of the wheel bolts may be of the locking type - use the 'key' tool (a special socket usually provided in the glovebox) with the wheelbrace to undo this. On models with steel wheels, prise off the wheel trim from the punctured wheel, using the end of the wheelbrace. Use the wheelbrace to loosen each wheel bolt by half a turn. 6 Fit the spare wheel. Refit the wheel bolts, and tighten moderately with the wheelbrace. Finally ..• D Remove the wheel chocks. D Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. D Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don't have a pressure guage with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. D Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired at the earliest opportunity.

Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if an engine undershield is fitted. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. Sump oil Engine oil may leak from the drain plug ... Antifreeze leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: OUse a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. OAlways turn the ignition key to the 'on' position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and the direction indicator and brake lights work. Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. ·Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay. Oil from filter ... or from the base of the oil filter. Brake fluid A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid. DA front towing eye is located with the jack and wheelbrace in the luggage compartment (see Wheel changing). The rear lashing eye (not designed for towing} is a conventional loop under the rear bumper. To fit the front towing eye, prise out the cover on the right-hand side of the front bumper, and remove it. Screw the towing eye in as far as it will go (noting that it has a left-hand thread} and tighten it with the wheel brace. OBefore being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. D Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since Roadside repairs o·9 .. Thesmellofafluldleakingfrom · . the. car. may provide a clue to whti:t'sleaklng. Some fluids are distinctJvely colou"!"d'. It may ~~°'lf!!1 ~. engtne u(lclershfeld, e car C8r<ffu1Jy and to park ft over ~'!'e flean paper ovemlght. as an ald to · of the leak. that $ome leaks may only ~f:l((~lle the$7~'ne is ninnlng.. Gearbox oil Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. D On models with power steering, greater-than- usual steering effort may also be required. OThe driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. D Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. D Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

0·10 Weekly checks Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. These Weekly checks require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example: OKeeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. D Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these. Underbonnet check points D If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. D If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example. A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) D Brake fluid reservoir E Screen washer fluid reservoir f Battery

Engine oil level Before you start v Make sure that the car ls on level ground. v Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil Is checked Jmme.dta~ty after qrivlng fhe . vehicle, some of the oil will remain In the upper engine 1.u,rnpcmentSt ~stt.lting lnan Inaccurate reading on tile dipst1cf<. The correct oil Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (see Lubricants and fluids). Car care e If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, then the engine may be burning oil. II Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil. Coolant level & Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous. 1 The coolant level varies with the tem- perature of the engine. The see-through expansion tank (located behind the radiator) has F (full) and L (low) level markings. When cold the level should be between the two marks. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above the F mark. 1 The dipstick is located in a tube at the right-hand rear of the engine; withdraw the dipstick from the tube to check oil level. 3 Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be within the upper and the lower marks (dots). If the engine is very hot, the oil level may appear to be above the upper mark, owing to thermal expansion. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower to the upper mark. Car care e With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary. 2 If topping-up ls necessary, wait until the engine is cold, then remove the cap on the expansion tank. Weekly checks 0·11 2 Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again. 4 Oil is added through the filler cap on the top of the engine. Unscrew the filler cap, then top-up the level. If required, use a funnel to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don't overfill. e It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don't top up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted. 3 Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank, until the coolant is up to the F mark. Use antifreeze of the same type (and colour) as that which is already in the system. Refit the cap securely.

2007 PEUGEOT 107 Service and Repair Manual

You're Reading a Preview

Recently Viewed