2005-2009 Ford Focus UK Service & Repair Manual

Ford Focus Owners Workshop Manual Martynn Randall Models covered Hatchback, Saloon & Estate models with 4-cylinder petrol engines 1.4 litre (1388cc), 1.6 litre (1596cc), 1.8 litre (1798cc) and 2.0 litre (1999cc) Does not cover 2.5 litre 5-cylinder engine, FlexFuel, CVT or Powershift transmission Does not cover features specific to C-Max or CC (Convertible) models (4785 - 288)

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR FORD FOCUS Introduction Safety first! Roadside repairs If your car won't start Jump starting Wheel changing Identifying leaks Towing Weekly checks Introduction Underbonnet check points Engine oil level Coolant level Brake and clutch fluid level Power steering fluid level Tyre condition and pressure Washer fluid level Wiper blades Battery Bulbs and fuses Lubricants and fluids Tyre pressures Page 0*4 Page 0*5 Page 0»6 Page 0*7 Page 0*8 Page 0*9 Page 0«9 Page 0*10 Page 0»10 Page 0»11 Page 0*11 Page 0«12 Page 0*12 Page 0»13 Page 0*14 Page 0»14 Page 0»15 Page 0*16 Page 0»17 Page 0»17 MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Servicing specifications Page Page 1-1 Maintenance schedule Page 1»3 Maintenance procedures Page 1*5

Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems 1 .4 & 1 .6 litre engines (Duratec 1 6V) in-car repair procedures 1.8 & 2.0 litre engines (Duratec HE) in-car repair procedures Engine removal and overhaul procedures Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Fuel and exhaust systems Emission control systems Starting and charging systems Ignition system Transmission Clutch Manual transmission Automatic transmission Driveshafts Brakes and suspension Braking system Suspension and steering Body equipment Bodywork and fittings Body electrical systems Wiring diagrams REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Fuel economy Conversion factors Buying spare parts Vehicle identification numbers General repair procedures Jacking and vehicle support Tools and working facilities MOT test checks Fault finding Glossary of technical terms Index Page 2A»1 Page 2B»1 Page 2O1 Page 3*1 Page 4A»1 Page 4B»1 Page 5A«1 Page 5B»1 Page 6«1 Page 7A»1 Page 7B»1 Page 8*1 Page 9«1 Page 10*1 Page 11»1 Page 12*1 Page 12*24 Page REF»1 Page REF«2 Page REF»6 Page REF»7 Page REF«7 Page REF«8 Page REF«9 Page REF»10 Page REF»12 Page REF«16 Page REF»23 Page REF-27

3-4 Introduction The original Focus model range was introduced to the UK in 1998. It was hailed as being innovative and stylish with excellent roadholding. The new range of Focus covered by this manual shares the attributes of its ancestor, but with improved refinement and performance, coupled with lower emissions. This new Focus shares a platform with other models from Ford's stable, most noticeably the Volvo S40 and V50 range. Initially only available as a Hatchback or Estate, the range was expanded later by the addition of a 4-door Saloon model. Safety features include door side impact bars, airbags for the driver and front seat passenger, side airbags, head airbags, whiplash protection system (front seats), and an advanced seat belt system with pretensioners and load limiters. Vehicle security is enhanced, with an engine immobiliser, shielded locks, and security-coded audio equipment being fitted as standard, as well as double-locking doors on most models. The 16-valve DOHC (double overhead camshaft) four-cylinder petrol engines are available in 1.4,1.6,1.8 and 2.0 litre capacities, and are based on the familiar Ford range of engines. The engines are controlled by a sophisticated engine management system, which combines multipoint sequential fuel injection and distributorless ignition systems with evaporati/e emissions control, exhaust gas recirculation, variable intake geometry and a three-way regulated catalytic converter to ensure compliance with increasingly stringent emissions control standards, while providing the expected evels of performance and fuel economy. The 1.6 litre engine is also available with variable valve timing for the intake and exhaust camshafts, further improving the engine's outpu:, driveability and emissions. The transversely-mounted engines drive the front roac wheels through either a five- or six-speed manual transmission with a hydraulically-operated clutch, or through an electronically-controlled four-speed automatic transmission. The fully-independent suspension is by MacPherson struts and transverse lower arms at the front, with multilink independent suspension at :he rear; anti-roll bars are fitted at front and re;:.r. The vacuum servo-assisted brakes are disc at the front, and either disc or drum at the rear. An electronically-controlled Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) is fitted on all models, with Dynamic Stability and Traction Control System (DSTC) also available. Power-assisted steering is standard on all models. Air conditioning is available, and all models have an ergonomically-designed passenger cabin with high levels of safety and comfort for all passengers. Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, the Focus should prove a reliable and economical car. The engine compartment is well-designed, and most of the items needing frequent attention are easily accessible. Your Ford Focus manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. The illustrations are numbered by the Section number and paragraph number to which they relate - if there is more than one illustration per paragraph, the sequence is denoted alphabetically. References to the 'left' or 'right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat, facing forwards. Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Safety First! Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Burning • Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. (((< Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. • Take care if loosening or tightening high- torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. Fire • Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. Electric shock T. J M • Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to f people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on. • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil- soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads. Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply. Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body . to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results. Remember... DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system. • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DON'T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don't rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. • Don't use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury. • Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don't allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

06 Roadside repairs The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. If your car won't start and the starter motor doesn't turn If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in P or N. Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight (unclip the battery cover for access). LJ Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend's car. If your car won't start even though the starter motor turns as normal I j Is there fuel in the tank? LJ Has the engine immobiliser been deactivated? This should happen automatically, on inserting the ignition key. However, if a replacement key has been obtained (other than from a Ford dealer), it may not contain the transponder chip necessary to deactivate the system. Even 'proper' replacement keys have to be coded to work properly - a procedure for this is outlined in the vehicle handbook. n Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Remove the plastic cover on the top of the engine (where applicable). Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads (where applicable). A Check the security and condition of the battery connections - unclip and lift the battery cover for access. B Check the mass airflow sensor wiring ' plug. ' ' ' - ' C Check that none of the engine com- ! ' partment fuses have blown. Check that all electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off). Spray the connector plugs with a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp.

Roadside repairs O7 Jump starting When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off. Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case. Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission). HINT Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: •* The battery has been drained by I repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. 2 The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). 3 The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out). Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery. Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery Connect the other end of the black lead to the to the earth terminal on the left-hand front suspension turret in the engine compartment. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive-belts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine, then with the engine ''running at fast idle speed disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

0-8 Roadside repairs Wheel changing Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation whe-e you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. Preparation When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. Use hazard warning lights if necessary. If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. Apply the I andbrake and engage first or reverse :jear (or P on models with automatic Iransmission). Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this. If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack. Changing the wheel I The spare wheel and tools are stored under the floor in the luggage compartment. Lift up the cover panel. Unscrew the retaining bolt, and lift the spare wheel out. The jack and wheel brace are located beneath the spare wheel. The screw-in towing eye is located alongside the spare wheel. 2 Where applicable, using the flat end of the wheel brace, prise off the wheel trim or centre :;over for access to the wheel nuts. Models with alloy wheels may have special locking nuts - these are removed with a special tool, which should be provided with the wheel braci; (or it may be in the glovebox). 3 Slacken each wheel nut by a half turn, using the wheel brace. If the nuts are too tight, DON'T stand on the wheel brace to undo them - call for assistance from one of the motoring organisations. 4 Two jacking points are provided on each side - use the one nearest the punctured wheel. Locate the jack head in the groove at the jacking point in the lower sill flange (don't jack the vehicle at any other point of the sill, nor on a plastic panel). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground. 5 Unscrew ':he wheel nuts, noting which way round they fit (tapered side inwards), and remove the wheel. 6 Fit the spare wheel, and screw on the nuts. Lightly tighten the nuts with the wheel brace, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Securely tighten the wheel nuts, then refit the wheel trim or centre cover, as applicable. Finally... Remove the wheel chocks. Stow the punctured wheel and tools back in the luggage compartment, and secure them in position. i Check the tyre pressure on the tyre just fitted. If it is low, or i you don't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the next garage and inflate the tyre to the correct pressure. In the case of the narrow 'space-saver' spare wheel this pressure is much higher than for a normal tyre. The wheel nuts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest possible opportunity. . Have the punctured wheel repaired as soon as possible, or e nother puncture will leave you stranded. Note: Some models are supplied with a special lightweight 'spa:e-saver' spare wheel, the tyre being narrower than standard. The 'space-saver' spare wheel is intended only for temporary use, and must be replaced with a standard wheel as soon as possible. Drive with particular care with this wheel fitted, especially through corners and when braking; d:> not exceed 50 mph.

Roadside repairs 0.9 Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. Sump oil Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay. The smell of a fluid leaking from fne car may provj£je a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running. Oil from filter Gearbox oil Engine oil may leak from the drain plug. ...or from the base of the oil filter. Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. Antifreeze Brake fluid Power steering fluid Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid. Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack. Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. 'Always turn the ignition key to the 'On' position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and the direction indicator and brake lights work. [UThe towing eye is of the screw-in type, and is found in the spare wheel well. The towing eye screws into a threaded hole, accessible after prising out a cover on the right-hand side of the front or rear bumper - later models have a circular cover (see illustration). Note: The towing eye has a left-hand thread - rotate it anti-clockwise to install it. 'Before being towed, release the handbrake and make sure the transmission is in neutral. On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply - do not exceed 30 mph or travel further than 30 miles, and the wheels must always roll forwards. Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. I The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

0-10 Weekly checks Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. These Weekly checks require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example: _\ an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. Many breakcowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often preve it the majority of these. If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. ilf the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example. Underbonnet check points litre engine A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coo/ant expansion tank D Brake and clutch fluid reservoir E Power steering fluid reservoir F Screen washer fluid reservoir G Battery ^1.8 litre engine A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Brake and clutch fluid reservoir E Power steering fluid reservoir (underneath the headlight F Screen washer fluid reservoir G Battery

2005-2009 Ford Focus UK Service & Repair Manual

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2005-2009 Ford Focus (UK) Service & Repair Manual

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