Answer
Jul 15, 2025 - 10:42 AM
If your Triton starts bogging or losing power when it gets hot, here’s what I’d look at:
-
Fuel delivery – Could be a weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or even a failing injector. When things heat up, fuel pressure can drop off just enough to kill performance.
-
Ignition system – A bad coil, crank angle sensor, or something in the ignition circuit can start acting up when warm. They work fine cold, but heat causes internal resistance to spike, and spark gets weak or intermittent.
-
MAF or temp sensors – If the coolant temp sensor or MAF is giving bad info, the ECU might be leaning it out or retarding timing once it thinks the engine’s hot. Worth checking with a scan tool if you’ve got access to live data.
-
Exhaust restriction – Rare, but a partially clogged cat can choke it out once the engine builds heat and exhaust pressure goes up.
Fortunately, the repair manual has step-by-step guides for checking all of these — fuel pressure test, ignition specs, sensor values, etc. Whether you have the 2.0L 4G63, 2.4L 4G64, 3.0L 6G72, 2.5L 4D56, or the 2.8L 4M40 powertrain, this manual should have you covered.
